Did my brake pads today

im on my second set of yellows now and from my experience with the first set and another friend of mine, they dont take kindly to being killed from the outset and can take a while to recover.

on my second set i did genuinely "run then in" kindly for 300 miles, if not more, and theyre absolutely spot on.

the reason i asked about the discs is that when ive seen new pads being fitted to old discs, the old discs can be worn to the shape of the old pads and it can take a while for the new pads to match that shape too. so it could be a while yet mrLOL
 
Hades said:
Must do this myself. Have been quoted £141 to change the rear pads on my Golf (VW dealer). Apparently they are 80% worn so I really need to get around to them. Never done it before but will probably give it a go.

Any basic info to point me in the right direction?
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Make sure you take the cap off the brake reservoir, it may not be needed for just two calipers pads but it will for all of them. I made this mistake and didn't and it buggered my master cylinder.
 
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and i dunno what golf you have, but chances are youll need a tool to put the pistons back in that rotates them at the same time as pushing them back.
 
Hades said:
Must do this myself. Have been quoted £141 to change the rear pads on my Golf (VW dealer). Apparently they are 80% worn so I really need to get around to them. Never done it before but will probably give it a go.

Any basic info to point me in the right direction?
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Calliper wind back tool is essential! About £10 from halfords :)
 
Matt82 said:
the reason i asked about the discs is that when ive seen new pads being fitted to old discs, the old discs can be worn to the shape of the old pads and it can take a while for the new pads to match that shape too. so it could be a while yet mrLOL
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When changing the discs, do you have to replace the pads as well, or do you simply have to bed them in again?
 
discs and pads are definately a basic process but you will need tools. id be annoyed if i bought the tools and never used them again, though.

then you have to consider that things like carriers can be bolted on he-man tight, so you will need a decent socket set and maybe a breaker bar. ideally you want a torque wrench to bolt it all back up properly

then you have to take into account annoying callipers that ive known to seize pads in or locating pins that fuse to the calliper (seen this on two late-ish mercedes etc) but in most cases, its a 25 min job to change front discs and pads when you know your way in and out

as for new discs/old pads, again they will have to wear to suit eachothers shape before full contact is made
 
no grease?

I thought the idea of grease was to stop brake squealing and wailing as well as them sticking.
 
Kappa said:
no grease?

I thought the idea of grease was to stop brake squealing and wailing as well as them sticking.
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grease on the backs of the pads (when it contacts the calliper) to stop the squealing

grease on the freshly cleaned slider pins keeps the calliper moving freely

new brake fluid to hopefully prevent pistons etc sticking
 
Matt82 said:
grease on the backs of the pads (when it contacts the calliper) to stop the squealing

grease on the freshly cleaned slider pins keeps the calliper moving freely

new brake fluid to hopefully prevent pistons etc sticking
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just what i thought! GET SOME GREASE IN THERE MAN!
 
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