Soldato
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Mercury, i think would be good. Since it's a metal it should have good thermal properties and it's a liquid at room temperature.
What water coolent to buy?
- Thread starter buckiebull66
- Start date
[Guilty]No, of course not. [/Guilty]
But if they can't see water then how would they know? Tom Lamb (Yewen) from OcUK has said on the forums before that they will RMA stuff that has been used with water cooling.
LoL!
It's good to know this can be done mate, just incase I happen to damage something when I start building my loop.
Associate
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I hear that the primochill stuff is very good.
There's a wide range of reasons why mercury is a stupid choice for cooling fluid. I'd hope you can work out why tim is ridiculous by yourself, as a hint Google 'viscous'
Water is very good, not just for cost, but heat capacity and viscosity over the relevant temperatures. As long as you're working between 10 degrees and 80 it's about the best you can hope for.
A silver kill coil is definitely the way to go, though I can't help feeling the silver bitspower pieces would be nicer. Copper sulphate/pt nuke would do too.
I will happily rma things which have been watercooled as long as I am completely sure the failure was independent of the water. If anything I expect water to prolong the life of components. If I've just been really thick then it's not right to rma it. Say I stepped on a motherboard, that's my fault and not the manufacturers.
Water is very good, not just for cost, but heat capacity and viscosity over the relevant temperatures. As long as you're working between 10 degrees and 80 it's about the best you can hope for.
A silver kill coil is definitely the way to go, though I can't help feeling the silver bitspower pieces would be nicer. Copper sulphate/pt nuke would do too.
I will happily rma things which have been watercooled as long as I am completely sure the failure was independent of the water. If anything I expect water to prolong the life of components. If I've just been really thick then it's not right to rma it. Say I stepped on a motherboard, that's my fault and not the manufacturers.
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You won't know him mate, he's only been there for the last year... stays on West Church St.. don't really want to plaster my old mans name over here!!!
Got no idea why OcUK don't stock MX3 but they should do!!
I was using AS5 prior to this stuff..
Aye m8 i wouldn't dream of you posting his name on here just a pitty there's no pm's on this forum!
Right back to the two questions i had i wasnt sure before and i am totaly confused even more on whats best for my loop and how to get started and whats wrong with the coolant and thermal paste that ocuk sell?
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where can i get the pt nuke and silver coil ?
Soldato
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+1 Definitely that
Look for Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide. Its just copper sulfate and citric acid.
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Yeh iv seen far to many posts on lots of forums like that, thats why i stear well clear of it, and just use deionized water and pt nuke now.
Yeah, that's all i've ever used.
Soldato
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Your gunked up GTX was for quiet different reasons WJA96, but does win the super slime award.
To the uninformed or those that just look at the images - feser one, will not do that too your blocks. But different metals in direct contact will - galvanic corrosion - read the thread and look it up in the sticky/google.
OK, now that is DISGUSTING!!!ukes:
What causes this to happen?
To the uninformed or those that just look at the images - feser one, will not do that too your blocks. But different metals in direct contact will - galvanic corrosion - read the thread and look it up in the sticky/google.
So having anodised aluminium on anodised aluminium wouldnt cause this ? just having different metals touching does ?
Its little things like this that put me off water cooling - just too many little things DO go wrong.
Soldato
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Two dissimilar metals will start a galvanic reaction because of electrode potentials, a bit like electro-plating. Watercooling sounds a bit scary, its not. Basically keep the loop all copper and you won't have a problem.