Frozen radiator perhaps?

Soldato
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Started the car up this morning to go to work, after a minute or so, I heard a loud pop and steam hissing. Turned car off straight away, but I am dead worried something is really wrong with the car now :(

It needed a top up of anti freeze over xmas, which the other half bought, but since told me this morning, he never actually put in :mad:

Is this going to be an expensive problem? :( Got a lift into work, so the car is still sat outside with nowhere else to put it :(
 
Might be worth finding your radiator tap and draining it all and doing a full refill. Or for a quick fix, pouring some anti freeze in neat if the coolant level is down enough. Sounds like there was a blockage. You need to get it flowing again and there isn't really an easy way apart from heating the engine bay up to ensure it's free of any ice blockages?
 
Could be a weak pipe somewhere that's frozen and split. I wouldn't drive it anywhere to be honest, were there any leaks or puddles?
 
Started the car up this morning to go to work, after a minute or so, I heard a loud pop and steam hissing. Turned car off straight away, but I am dead worried something is really wrong with the car now :(

It needed a top up of anti freeze over xmas, which the other half bought, but since told me this morning, he never actually put in :mad:

Is this going to be an expensive problem? :( Got a lift into work, so the car is still sat outside with nowhere else to put it :(

loads of problems can be caused if a cooling system does not have sufficient anti freeze. a long long list

will be interesting to see what they diagnose
 
Could be a weak pipe somewhere that's frozen and split. I wouldn't drive it anywhere to be honest, were there any leaks or puddles?

No leaks that I saw, was in a rush to get to work :(

Been told to get the AA out with Homestart, they can get me to a garage if needs be. Wont be starting it again for now.
 
Is it on the Puma?

The part isn't hugely pricey like you say but it can be a ballache to get to as it's often cambelt driven. Not familiar with the Puma myself!
 
Is it on the Puma?

The part isn't hugely pricey like you say but it can be a ballache to get to as it's often cambelt driven. Not familiar with the Puma myself!

And if it is cambelt drive, which most cars seem to be these days, then it goes without saying that the cambelt AND tensioner should also be changed along with the water pump.
 
If the cambelt kit isn't due a change why change the tensioner if the service intervals have been followed?

I'd go along with doing the belt, but the leave the tensioners unless they are due anyway.
 
If the cambelt kit isn't due a change why change the tensioner if the service intervals have been followed?

I'd go along with doing the belt, but the leave the tensioners unless they are due anyway.

Because they're inexpensive, and while you have everything in bits it's almost no extra work to fit one. Stuff service intervals as I've seen tensioners fail that were well within them. I change the tensioner everytime I change the belt.
 
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like has been said, its one way or another with a water pump, labour wise

the parts not dear, but one type involves a bit of spannering, the other way involves hours.

if its the long way which requires the camble to come off then youre definately best off doing the cambelt and associated bits so you avoid having to pay that labour again when the cambelt does become due.

after that id be worried about the overheat cuasing damage
 
Because they're inexpensive, and while you have everything in bits it's almost no extra work to fit one. Stuff service intervals as I've seen tensioners fail that were well within them. I change the tensioner everytime I change the belt.

I wouldn't say the tensioners are inexpensive, the belt is £20ish but the full kit is often over £100. If the belt was done 20k ago on an interval of 80k why bother with the tensioners?

I just don't see the point in spending money for the sake of it.
 
I wouldn't say the tensioners are inexpensive, the belt is £20ish but the full kit is often over £100. If the belt was done 20k ago on an interval of 80k why bother with the tensioners?

I just don't see the point in spending money for the sake of it.

Personally I would change everything unless it was literally a few thousand miles old, and certainly don't view it as a waste of money. However the Zetec SE has the water pump driven by the auxiliary belt so this is a bit of a pointless argument.
 
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