Brake bleeding

thecremeegg

thecremeegg

thecremeegg

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Joined
13 Oct 2006
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Location
Surrey
I know how to change my brake pads and disks, but I have no idea about how to even begin bleeding the brakes so I think getting someone else to do it is the way forward.
Can Kwik Fit or such do it? How much should I look at paying?

Cheers
 
Get yourself a brake bleeding kit, replacement brake fluid, and do it yourself. It's really easy.

It's an awful lot easier if you can get a friend to help as at some point you'll want to pump the brakes, but still.
 
platypus said:
Get yourself a brake bleeding kit, replacement brake fluid, and do it yourself. It's really easy.

It's an awful lot easier if you can get a friend to help as at some point you'll want to pump the brakes, but still.
Click to expand...

I'm trying to find a good guide on how do do it, but every one is different :(

Is the brake bleeding kit from halfords any good? Ideally need it done by tomorrow evening you see.
 
I'm pretty sure the kit I used when I did my friends Clio was a Halfords kit and worked just fine.

I used the Haynes manual for the car. What car are you trying?
 
Start from the furthest away for the res first, then do the other back one, then the front furthest away, then the other.
Need two people really one to pump the pedel. does help if you know what your doing though.
 
I usually stick a bit of tube over the bleed nipple, slacken the nipple 1/2 to 3/4 turn and get someone to slowly pump the pedal to push the fluid through. On the last push ask them to hold the pedal down, just lightly tighten the nipple and let them raise the pedal. This ensures no air gets pulled back in. Always start with the wheel that's furthest away from the master cylinder, as a general rule.

Now, depending what you're trying to do... are you trying to get air out the system or trying to replace the fluid?

If you're just trying to get air out, pump it through a few times and check the level in the reservoir, top up when necessary. You can stop as soon as you don't see air bubbles coming through. It also sounds different when you're not pushing air bubbles through. Repeat on all wheels if necessary.

If you're replacing the fluid then pump it through until the reservoir is right near the bottom. Top up with fresh fluid. Keep pumping until the new fluid is coming out the nipple , you'll know this because it'll be clear instead of dark and snotty. Repeat on each wheel.
 
Ok, so this is how I understand it:

1)Open master cylinder, top up with fresh fluid
2)Go to rear wheel, remove bleeder cap and attach the bleed kit.
3)Open the bleed nipple and get someone to press down the brake pedal.

This is where I get confused, how do you know how long to wait? Will the fluid just stop coming out at some point? I assume you have to ensure that the cyclinder doesnt run out else you get air in the system.

Edit: Cheers Jonny, that helps a lot :)
 
When your (preferably) hot scantily clad assistant pushes the pedal down it'll squirt fluid out the tube. It'll stop when the pedal reaches the floor. When they let the pedal back up it draws new fluid from the reservoir. Usually it won't draw it back up the tube, but I normally close the bleed nipple before the last release just to make sure.

If you just open the bleed nipple and leave it it'll literally just drip out.

Oh, and keep the brake fluid off the paintwork because it'll eat through it. Fine on your hands but it doesn't like car paint (or your eyes) :)
 
would recommend removing the old brake fluid form the resivior first! a syringe is useful for this. no point having to pump all the old oil through!

open the bleed valve, pedal down and held, close bleed valve, lift pedel, and repeat till the new oil has come through!
 
I've always pushed it all the way to the floor. How could it knacker the master cylinder?
 
Last time I did this I borrowed a mates air compressor and bought an attachment that goes on the bleed nipple and sucks the fluid through. Worked pretty well if you happen to have a compressor available.

As for knowing when to stop, the old fluid should be much darker than the new fluid.
 
Jonny69 said:
I've always pushed it all the way to the floor. How could it knacker the master cylinder?
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I once read that sometimes debris can build up inside the master cylinder, a bit of the cylinder lining and pushing the brake to the floor drives this debris into the master cylinder seal damaging it.

Unsure on how true this is with modern cars, I have never considered it and have pushed the pedal to the floor.

This weekend I bought a Gunter Eezi Bleed. Very impressed with it and would recommend it.
 
gbradders123 said:
would recommend removing the old brake fluid form the resivior first! a syringe is useful for this. no point having to pump all the old oil through!

open the bleed valve, pedal down and held, close bleed valve, lift pedel, and repeat till the new oil has come through!
Click to expand...

I was told never to do that and keep the reservoir topped up until you see the new liquid come through on the valve, otherwise you'll get air in through the reservoir if it's empty?
 
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