So I bought a Rotary polisher

Clarkey said:
Exactly. So much cods-wallop about them on the internet.
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Agreed - the only way you will damage paint with a rotary is

A) Being a moron
B) Using it on really really thin and/or seriously soft paint - and if the paint is that bad to start with then eventually any sort of polishing will knacker it.
 
my neighbour successfully burnt the paint on his wifes mates renault megane when he borrowed my rotary :D
 
Be careful around edges, mask any black trim/glass and remember that plastic does not dissipate heat as well as metal so be careful not to 'burn' plastic.

I'd use my dad's rotary on mine but I'm not very confident that the paint is thick enough. You'd have to be a grade A twit to ruin your car.
 
[TW]Fox;16112232 said:
I got a DAS-6 for Christmas.

Am I going to ruin my car with it?
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Its difficult to irreparable damage a car with a DA even if you had the desire to do so, assuming the DAS6 "bogs down" under pressure.

Its far harder to inflict damage with a DA, but it takes longer to get results that are arguably still not *quite* as good as a Rotary.
 
It won't just make the application stage easier, it'll actually get you some discernible results, which I don't believe are realistically possible by hand.

I'd head over to detailingworld.co.uk, there are some brilliant guides over there, and plenty of knowledgeable professionals and enthusiasts for advice.
 
I'll stick in the brain-dead moron camp. I'm sure the whole burning paint, trim flying reputation of the rotary is way overblown but I still think that a DA is best for the majority of people who polish their cars once, maybe twice a year who want a nice result with a minimum of fuss and risk.

The rotary will give you the same results but much quicker and with less polish / compound, perfect for the pros. If you think a rotary gives visibly better results, how do you explain that some of the best professionals use the DA on large parts of the vehicle such as bumpers but you'd never know unless you were told? I'm sure there is a Gloss meter test on DW that showed no difference between DA and rotary gloss with somebody who knows how to use both.

If you have never used a rotary and go to town on your car and it looks fantastic, great. But seeing as we are dealing with microns and I suspect nobody here has a paint thickness gauge, you have no idea how much clearcoat you have left. Great if you have a shed and it's no big deal, but personally I'd prefer to leave as much on as possible.

I'd happily let anybody here use a DA on my cars. Show them how it works for 5 minutes and walk away. I wouldn't do that with a rotary.
 
If you are happy spending 15 hours to get a mediocre level of correction, then be my guest, I, However was not prepared to settle for this, nor was I prepared to spend more money on the equipment to do so.

Even with a PTG, you have no idea how much clearcoat you have left, and a DA will be removing the same amount of clear coat to achieve the same level of correction as you would with a rotary, that is down to the operator, not the machine.
 
Depends on the PTG, high end will measure all your levels, but approximating with a PTG is adequate to illustrate the point. The same amount of 'material' is removed if the operator knows what he is doing and has used a PTG to understand how much and at what rate the 'material' is being removed, i.e experience.

Somebody new could get great results with a rotary and have very little clearcoat left and never know. That won't happen with a DA, assuming basic levels of knowledge in both instants.

If you equate 15 hours of correction to ? hours of rotary work and it can only be seen as mediocre, I'd guess you are doing something wrong.
 
Well using a rotary requires some sense of common sense, and you would apply the same methods as you would with a DA, that being you'd start with the least abrasive compound/pad combination and work your way up until you reach the desired level of correction.

If you follow that, the chances are that you will have removed the same amount of clear coat with either the Rotary or DA.

As for the PTG, a high end tool is beyond the reach of many professionals, let alone your average first timer enthusiast.
 
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