Engine Doesn't Rev Beyond 5400RPM

Mackass

Mackass

Mackass

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The car is a VW Golf 1.6 8V 1999.

The problem is that it sometimes doesn't rev beyond 5400RPM, from 2nd gear onwards. In addition, performance has been really sluggish recently, with lower fuel economy - around 5mpg below my average.

The car was last serviced in december, with oil & oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, thermostat and temperature sensor changed.

Does anyone know what may potentially cause this problem?
 
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Before anybody mentions:

This engine can rev higher than 5400RPM, I have done so in the past, and here's a picture of my tachometer http://i43.tinypic.com/jrr1xj.jpg

No I do not rev the nuts out of my engine on a regular basis; I just happened to identify this fault whilst overtaking a few days ago, and want to know what's causing it.

I disconnected the MAF earlier and went for a spin. The result was lumpy acceleration, hardly any power at all and the car just didn't feel right. Also, I still wasn't able to go beyond 5400RPM. However, that doesn't mean the MAF sensor isn't at fault though does it?
 
Either intake or fuel, check the intake filter could be blocked reducing air flow or could be fuel pump blocked with crap from people running car till empty sucking crap into the damn thing
 
Silly question.

How would I check for a blockage? There's a air intake pipe that runs from the air filter to the lower front bumper area I guess, do you mean a blockage in there somewhere? If so, would I check by poking something down there or something?
 
Pretty much, there's no trick to it.

Also run it and listen for a popping in the intake while you're there.

A blockage in the exhaust is also possible, have you decked it lately? Is there is big ass dent in the front pipe or something?
 
You're not going to have sucked up a badger or anything, so the filter is really the only likely place where it could be blocked - so open the airbox and check it
 
He wont have a badger in there, but mice have been known to nest in cars. I've also seen gaffa tape applied by the customer round the intake at a joint, shrink from heat and form a perfect restrictor.
 
I will have a check this weekend. By the way, what do you mean by a popping sound?

With regards to the MAF, I guess you're right, if it was at fault then the car would run better I presume.
 
Nope, no problems at all with stalling or cutting out.

I will give the airbox a check as well then. However, with a new air filter fitted in December, I hope it's not a blockage in there, but I guess it's an easy place to check so will have a look!
 
Opening up the box is going to give you better acccess to check the pipework anyway, so worth doing. Not all garages are are honest as you might hope, so they may have not bothered replacing it
 
Check the airbox and fuel filters then. Couple of screws and the lid pops off the box. Fuel filter is easily visible as well on the LHS of the engine if memory serves.

I went through a fair few sensors on the Bora. Stalling/cutting out is a symptom of a knackered crank sensor. Also had a MAF and a couple of temperature sensors as well...
 
If there is a loud regular popping in the intake, this may indicate that the timing belt has slipped.

The engine will never run well without a MAF, and will often run worse when it's removed, even if it is broken. They key thing to note is that the engine still didn't rev without the MAF, I'd expect the fail-safe mode for no MAF to be able to rev all they way, or at least to a different limit than this problem has caused. The fact that it got lumpy when the MAF was removed proves it is not in no MAF mode to begin with.
 
Cheers for the help so far guys, will check the air filter box and the pipework when I get a chance this weekend.

Apart from that, anything else that I could potentially check whilst I've got the bonnet open? Or would there be anything else which may cause my problem?
 
Can you see a distributor cap in there? I suspect it's to new for one, but a bit of research showed a faulty or non-genuine one can cause this symptom.

Also, I love the way your thread on uk-mkivs.net has turned into an argument about the top speed of the car, and if you really need to rev that high anyway. What a bunch of tards.
 
BigglesPiP said:
If there is a loud regular popping in the intake, this may indicate that the timing belt has slipped.

The engine will never run well without a MAF, and will often run worse when it's removed, even if it is broken. They key thing to note is that the engine still didn't rev without the MAF, I'd expect the fail-safe mode for no MAF to be able to rev all they way, or at least to a different limit than this problem has caused. The fact that it got lumpy when the MAF was removed proves it is not in no MAF mode to begin with.
Click to expand...

There isn't a loud popping noise from my memory, otherwise I'm sure I would have picked up on it I reckon.

Sorry for coming across a bit clueless, however going by your assumption, then the MAF isn't at fault?
 
I'd say the MAF is ok.
You would probably have noticed the popping I'm referring to.

Just a few other questions:
-Is there a fault light on the dashboard?
-Does the fault light show in the lamp test?
-Does the speedometer work?
-Is there a fault with the ABS indicated?
-Does the ABS light operate correctly in the lamp test?




(Lamp test is where all the lights in the dash show for a few seconds when you turn it on).
 
Magicboy, I had stalling/cutting out problems two years ago, and like you it was the crank sensor which was the culprit too. With regards to the fuel filter, I don't believe it has been changed recently, if ever? Well certainly not in my almost 4 years of ownership. Do they ever need changing? As it's not on any service schedules.

Biggles, there isn't a distributor cap as far as I'm aware. But with regards to your uk-mkivs.net comment, I agree that half the responses were from idiots, which is why I gave up and done the right thing by asking OcUK. :)
 
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