Any plumbers on the forum- central heating leak/speedfit question

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Walked into my bathroom on the way to bed last night, and toed a small puddle on the floor under the radiator. "Hmmm" thunk I, "I'd better isolate that". So I turned off the radiator stop valve. As soon as I did that- PSSSSCCHHHH! Big jet of water springs out the back of it, bounces off the wall and into my face. Tried screwing in the lockshield valve, but teh plastic cover instantly fell apart, so I then tried screwing the pin in with grips, but the head of the pin sheared off. Lastly I tried screwing down the remaining shank of the lockshield, no joy- it's definitely seated but the water kept on coming.

Panick ensued, and rather than tackling the leak like I should have done, I fought my way up through the loft to turn off the header tank. Meanwhile the water is leaking through my kitchen ceiling. Eventually managed to cover the leak using an old pencil eraser wedged with a block of wood.

Nice of the heating to decide to do this the day before snow is forecast for Guildford.

Anyway, being an old-ish house, I can't find a radiator to fit the space, and I don't have the plumbing skills to move or change the copper feed pipes. So my question is, if I get a similar sized radiator from B&Q, can I graft plastic speedfit connectors and hoses onto my copper fittings, giving me a bit more flexibility (literally) in positioning? I know it'll probably look rubbish, but at least I'll be able to get the heating going.

I'm obviously going to have to drain the system to do this, but once done, I'll flush and refill the system with more corrosion inhibitor.
 
Personally what Id do is get a rad that is similar size (smaller than current one) and buy rad extensions, basically 1" long chrome fittings that go between the valve and the rad connection. I work for a plumbing supplier and we sell these for just such a job!
 
Personally what Id do is get a rad that is similar size (smaller than current one) and buy rad extensions, basically 1" long chrome fittings that go between the valve and the rad connection. I work for a plumbing supplier and we sell these for just such a job!

I'd do this.

You could get speedfit fittings to do the job but having them on show will look absolutely gash
 
Seems a bit odd doesnt it :confused:

A new rad doesnt come with valves, with the right tools you can change just the valve.

If you plan on changing the rad and using speedfit, then your going to have to drill the wall etc...cut pipe...use inserts in plastic pipe.....And after all that its probably gonna look a pig :) Which most speedfit fittings do when they are exposed.


Mick
 
Seems a bit odd doesnt it :confused:

A new rad doesnt come with valves, with the right tools you can change just the valve.

If you plan on changing the rad and using speedfit, then your going to have to drill the wall etc...cut pipe...use inserts in plastic pipe.....And after all that its probably gonna look a pig :) Which most speedfit fittings do when they are exposed.


Mick

Ah, sorry can see that was a bit misleading. The radiator had sprung a leak, which opened up when I closed the valve. There's a small hole half way down, which seems a little odd- I thought they generally rotted at the top where any air collects. The valves don't isolate the rad, so I need new valves too.

Anyway I've drained the system down, and flushed several times, and the contents looks a bit clearer. Once it's cleaned out I'll replace the valves, so I can at least get the heating running while I source a radiator to fit.

Cheers all for the help!
 
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