Watercooling Guide Anyone?

Jotunkaiser

Jotunkaiser

Jotunkaiser

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I was wondering, because I dont really know much about it myself if anyone could do a generic watercooling guide for parts that you might need etc (Basics)

I know very little about watercooling really, but in all truth It doesnt seem that hard from the rigs I've seen with that setup but how do you know what bits to buy IE fittings for the tubes, what tubes - other than cpu/vga block, whats a good basic starting rad etc.

Idk if anyone is bored and would have the time to spec me an e.g watercooling kit for w/e system/case they want to use - just to see a breakdown of parts etc.

I come here first rarther than looking on the web in more detail as there is always a good source of info on here and a basic watercooling sticky would be nice! if its possible.

I tried looking @ the one thats already posted but its old and links are dead in some cases :( and it seems a tad outdated lol.
 
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I'd happily spec you a loop or two :)
What is it you're looking to WC and what are you planning on getting out of it? I.e. do you want overclock-ability or just a quieter cooling solution? Do you want to watercool everything (including MOBO, gpu etc.) or just the CPU?
What case do you currently have? We can try and work with that if at all possible and save you a bit of money!
 
I agree with Higadeb before we can look at the basic parts you would require we need more info on your current system

Whether you are looking at cooling the whole system via water or just the cpu

Also whether you are looking to OC the system or just looking for a quiter soloution

And the most inportant part how much are you willing to spend as this will impacked the parts we suggest.
 
Well, right now I'm running a Q6600 / 9800 gx2 / Cosmos-s case / Ip35-pro / using a H50-1 cooler.

But I'm thinking of upgrading to a I7-930 / 5870 or 50 (Not sure yet value for money wise i think the 5850 and oc it to 5870+) and I havent really picked a board yet.

I would like to have a full loop if possible, on either machine just to dip my toes in the water so to speak, but I really dont know a great deal about watercooling. I get the general idea and I've looked at some parts etc, but all the seals/pipes/rads etc it gets abit hectic lol, and resivoirs? to hold the water.

Oh and ye it would be to OC the system, I dont really care to much about noise as I play my games with my headphones on anyway and cant even hear the computer haha, Price I dont mind I'm flexible on that.


Also on a side note, how easy would it be to make a comparable loop/price to the h50? but with real watercooling parts? do you think, out of intrest ( my friends thinking about getting a h50 and I was just wondering how much the price diff would be for -real- watercooling as its more future proof for his system.
 
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Did you look at the stickies in this very forum? The third one is a guide to cooling which includes water-cooling. Read that first, then have a look through the gallery in this forum, get some ideas of how you want it to look.

Most of the questions you have will have been answered on this forum or one of the many others around the web.

When you have some prospective parts in mind, come back and ask specific questions.

It really is much more fun if you do the research otherwise you might as well just get someone else to do it all for you.
 
As for the H50, I really have my doubts about its real value.

1) it is sealed so can only be mounted the way it's designed.

2) it is sealed so cannot be added to to cool gpu etc.

3) a single 120.1 radiator has a limited heat capacity without using powerful (louder) fans.

So, I will admit it is a good price for an adequately performing solution but it has already been show to be only marginally (at best) better than a similarly fanned Megahelem or TRUE. The air-coolers will be easier to manage and less likely to fail.

If you want to have cpu-only cooling, there have been other posts on here showing similar setups made with custom parts - DB1, XS120, Heatkiller LC. You can actually build this without a res or a T-line by filling it in a large bucket to totally remove any air.

Can it be done for under the price of an H50? No.
Will the above loop be better? Maybe, but it will not have any of the disadvantages of the H50.

Having not been on here for a few months, I'm amazed and slightly disappointed to see how many people have embraced the H50 as if it's something woderful.
 
The Corsair H50 and a proper watercooling loop just don't compare. Even if you're only using a 120mm radiator!
The Cosmos S is a lovely case! Watercooling inside the Cosmos is possible one of the easiest cases to watercool! You wont need to do any case modding :)
As for the loop, I'm still not sure what you want it for? You say you want one full loop, yet my PC has three in it! (1 for CPU, 1 for the 2xGPU, 1 for MOBO) What is it you're actually wanting to watercool? Or is it the whole thing!?
Reservoirs are a very good idea! You'll need one per loop! They basically keep your loop topped up with water so you don't need as much maintenance and the make it much easier to remove air bubbles.
 
keeping any sticky up-to-date is a challenge so don't be surprised if that doesn't happen. it still remains a good guide as a starting point, IMO. (but then I am heavily quoted in it and that corroded block was mine so I'm probably biased!)

best cpu block arguably Swiftech XT
best gpu blocks depend on the gpu to be cooled but IMO it's an expensive game to water-cool a graphics card as although we may well think Intel change sockets often, it's nothing compared to how fast the graphics world moves. Almost inevitably whatever block you buy will not survive a card change and that assumes you get a card that actually followed the reference design to even allow a block to be fitted. Use after-market air-cooling IMO.
best rads still Thermochill but TFX Xchangers are good too. 140mm rads are becoming popular. many ways to mount a rad but it's a hugely personal choice so look around on forums.
best pumps still Laing D5 / DDC (easiest is DDC with XSPC reservoir top)
tubing can be any of ½, 7/16 or 3/8. I personally like 7/16 over ½" barbs
Masterkleer tubing is excellent.
If you must have a coloured loop, I strongly advise coloured tubing and plain coolant as dyed coolant has a habit of being crap (and blocking up your block as the dye separates over time)
I personally advise barbs not compression fittings as compression fittings are poor value for money (great if you ahve unlimited funds but who does?)
 
MikeTimbers said:
best cpu block arguably Swiftech XT
best gpu blocks depend on the gpu to be cooled but IMO it's an expensive game to water-cool a graphics card as although we may well think Intel change sockets often, it's nothing compared to how fast the graphics world moves. Almost inevitably whatever block you buy will not survive a card change and that assumes you get a card that actually followed the reference design to even allow a block to be fitted. Use after-market air-cooling IMO.
best rads still Thermochill but TFX Xchangers are good too. 140mm rads are becoming popular. many ways to mount a rad but it's a hugely personal choice so look around on forums.
best pumps still Laing D5 / DDC (easiest is DDC with XSPC reservoir top)
tubing can be any of ½, 7/16 or 3/8. I personally like 7/16 over ½" barbs
Masterkleer tubing is excellent.
If you must have a coloured loop, I strongly advise coloured tubing and plain coolant as dyed coolant has a habit of being crap (and blocking up your block as the dye separates over time)
I personally advise barbs not compression fittings as compression fittings are poor value for money (great if you ahve unlimited funds but who does?)
Click to expand...

I agree with the vast majority of that :)
If the Apogee XT is too pricey, have a look at the EK supreme HF, which is a brilliant block too. Mofset really depends on the MOBO so you'll have to let us know. As for GPU I'd again recommend EK.
Tubing should be 7/16ID on 1/2 barbs (with coils) and coloured/UV dies is a no no! Go for UV tubing and a clear liquid (I use Thermochill EC6) that way you don't get as much gunk build up and your blocks last longer.
Radiators I love the Thermochill PA series. I have a Black Ice 240 GTX, which cost £20 more than an out of stock PA 120.2 and the performance is pretty poor, it just beats out my PA 120.1 :mad:
Barbs are lovely and cost effective :) shove on a few hose clamps and they look pretty sweet too! Compressions are pricey and a ***** to attach, you have to screw them on and then you end up with twisted/bent hosing; it's not worth the hassle/money!
I would go for a Laing Pump. The solid 10 year warranty speaks for itself! ;)
 
Whoops, forgot fans! Make sure you have fans which shift a decent amount of air >50cfm. I use xigmatek/xilence fans. I always use a push configuration. It's more effective over pull and a push + pull config creates too much noise for only 1/2'C difference! You can buy shrouds to increase the air flow, although I've never had the need. You might want to look into a fan controller if you are worried about connections or noise. Although I doubt that's too much of an issue
 
MikeTimbers said:
keeping any sticky up-to-date is a challenge so don't be surprised if that doesn't happen. it still remains a good guide as a starting point, IMO. (but then I am heavily quoted in it and that corroded block was mine so I'm probably biased!)

best cpu block arguably Swiftech XT
best gpu blocks depend on the gpu to be cooled but IMO it's an expensive game to water-cool a graphics card as although we may well think Intel change sockets often, it's nothing compared to how fast the graphics world moves. Almost inevitably whatever block you buy will not survive a card change and that assumes you get a card that actually followed the reference design to even allow a block to be fitted. Use after-market air-cooling IMO.
best rads still Thermochill but TFX Xchangers are good too. 140mm rads are becoming popular. many ways to mount a rad but it's a hugely personal choice so look around on forums.
best pumps still Laing D5 / DDC (easiest is DDC with XSPC reservoir top)
tubing can be any of ½, 7/16 or 3/8. I personally like 7/16 over ½" barbs
Masterkleer tubing is excellent.
If you must have a coloured loop, I strongly advise coloured tubing and plain coolant as dyed coolant has a habit of being crap (and blocking up your block as the dye separates over time)
I personally advise barbs not compression fittings as compression fittings are poor value for money (great if you ahve unlimited funds but who does?)
Click to expand...
Some great advice there Mike, going to water on my current i7 rig, thermochill pa 120.3 rad in the roof of my A70F case, barbs will be bitspower silver diamond 1/2 inch with masterkleer 7/16 tubing, done a test fit, crickey its tight, that was even without a clamp or cable tie, i cant see a leak with that combo, just gotta decide on what pump, res or combo to go with now, cpu block will be a heatkiller.
 
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