I went back in 2008 for around 10 days. I've always meant to write a bit of an article on it but haven't got round to it yet!
I got in via train from Dandong (the place where the Chinese soldiers were shot dead about 10 days ago).
The train ride in was pretty interesting. Saw lots of dilapidated old soviet trains, loads of people working in rice fields who didn't look in the best of health. I was met at Pyongyang train station by two "tour guides" (government officials) who were at my side for the entire time.
I stayed at the international hotel which is on an island (so you can't take good photos of everyday life there). They check the size of your lenses on entry (there's a maximum size / zoom level). You're not allowed outside your hotel on your own so you can't have a look around. There's no bars / restaurants for locals - they are only for tourists and possibly the elite of Pyongyang. There's a casino and brothel in the hotel (which I didn't visit!) but they are mainly for the Chinese tourists (gambling illegal in China).
There's a kind of curfew at night so socialising would be pretty impossible. Not too sure about the education. We were ushered around a school to witness children learning. One was an IT class and the kids were using an old version of visual studio. They were just typing rubbish into the screen from what I could make out but that might have been my suspicions getting the better of me!
Completely surreal place. Everyone I spoke to (I was allowed to speak to) were mind washed. I got the sense that they really do believe their great leader is a God.
The only time I witnessed locals in a "Non setup" way was when I had to go to a place to have my photo taken for a Chinese re-entry visa (I forgot to bring one). The people in the queue were in disbelief but I was whisked so fast past them I couldn't get a word out.
Anyway - apart from being taken around all the official places - it was pretty boring as you can imagine. Photos are
here.
If anyone is interested in visiting after that boring description - PM me

You can go in a group but you don't get the NK visa in your passport and personal government tour guides!

I went via a Chinese tour company in Dandong who is well trusted over on the lonely planet forums.