Educate the uneducated. Turbo'ing an NA car.

no, don't do that. If you're running custom pistons then lower the CR that way - not with plates, but if you are using plates - use copper ones bonded to the block.

It does TOTALLY depend on the car though, and what level of boost etc you aim to run.

I could convert my cinquecento to a low blow without touching the internals, use an aquamist MF2 for the fueling and be done with it. No need for the intercooler etc either
 
Phate said:
ok so,

3) Decompression plate (where does this go?)
4) Another headgasget (for what exactly? :))
.
Click to expand...

A decompression plate is basically another headgasket but thicker, it lowers the compression ratio of the engine as the vechicle will have forced induction (the turbo) as higher compression ratio is not needed.
The decompression plate goes inbetween the block and head assembly.

Usually bigger injectors are needed as more fuel is needed.
wideband lambda sensors are usually used aswell as they give a more acurate reading for the ecu.

Upgrades to the braking / suspension side is usually a good idea as the car will have moar powaaaa ! ;)

Oil feeds are needed to be taken aswell for the turbo, not a difficult job i dont think, but still another job to be added to the list.

If you state the car in question, we can help you out more !
 
1) Turbo
2) A Car
3) Decompression plate (where does this go?)
4) Another headgasget (for what exactly? )
5) Forged Pistons
6) Custom Manifolds
7) High flow exhaust
8) Intercooler
9) Pipework
10) Megasquirtz and tuning
11)Injectors
12) Uprated Fuel Pump
13) Decent Induction
14) Wideband O2 Sensor
15) Boost Gauge
16) Boost Controller
17) Oil and water feeds for the turbo

(talking to a mate about this to)
 
You'll need, potentially, some method of controlling boost limits too and venting that excess pressure - a dump valve, for example :)

-Edit- Oh, snap :p
 
An engine designed for use as NASP will have the wrong compression ratio to run with forced induction.

In order to run any sort of reasonable forced induction you'd have to lower the compression ratio of the engine to allow for increased airflow from the compressor, and this is normally achieved by using new pistons and rods (forged normally for strength) along with a stronger head gasket.
Obviously with more air being fed into the engine, the standard ECU and probably the injectors as well if looking at a reasonable gain wouldn't be up to the job.
After faffing about with your new pistons, rods, head gaskets and finding an ECU and injectors that will suit your desired application and power, you'll be wanting an intercooler, probably a wide band lambda sensor, updated o2 sensor, oil cooler for the turbo or charger as well as a manifold to fit, a new higher flowing exhaust system and of course a map for the ECU so the car will run.

It goes without saying you'd need some slightly better brakes with a power hike, along with the usual suspension upgrades par for the course on scratch builds like this.

This is going off my limited knowledge of how things work, and I've definitely missed bits!

Edit: Beaten like a red headed step child!
 
classicVin said:
If you state the car in question, we can help you out more !
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No car in particular, I've been browsing Pistonheads and other forums and remember seeing someone post about Drex's teg last night so it got me thinking, what's needed?


But for argument sake, [predictable answer]ZS180[/predictable answer] (also this is the car I know the most about)
 
Mr Gimp said:
An engine designed for use as NASP will have the wrong compression ratio to run with forced induction.
Click to expand...

There's no such thing as the 'wrong' compression ratio, the compression ratio only to some effect limits the amount of boost you can run :)

You can still build a high compression engine and run high amounts of boost - people running really low CR's to get high boost are usually only doing so because they don't have a precise enough system, or the ability, to control fuelling and air temperature enough to keep the engine together.

There's also another tradeoff there - running a low CR engine and high boost sometimes can produce less power than a similar engine with a higher CR and less boost - and the one with higher CR will be considerably more snappy and lively.

I mean, the original 'Jetfire' turbocharged V8 ran a 10:1 compression ratio. The newer Skyline still runs 9:1 too.

Most factory engines, with factory bits, will take 5-8PSI without complaining, provided you can control fuel, ignition and intake temperature well enough :)
 
Janesy B said:
Would the engine bay of a ZS180 even have room for a turbo?
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This is a continuous debate on ZS forums. Basically people think if you:

Removed the aircon - for an intercooler
Moved the battery to the boot
Changed the induction - these 2 to make room for a turbo.
Got rid of the crappy plastic inlet manifold and swapped it for an ally one off a Rover 800 - simply because higher pressures and temps means SOD having a plastic one :p

Then 'maybe'
 
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Cool, you learn something new every day :)

Reading what you said about low CR high boost builds being used as they're not using precise enough management sounds about right seeing as most of what I've picked up is from half arsed turbo attempts on classic Minis! :o

Lashout_UK said:
There's no such thing as the 'wrong' compression ratio, the compression ratio only to some effect limits the amount of boost you can run :)

You can still build a high compression engine and run high amounts of boost - people running really low CR's to get high boost are usually only doing so because they don't have a precise enough system, or the ability, to control fuelling and air temperature enough to keep the engine together.

There's also another tradeoff there - running a low CR engine and high boost sometimes can produce less power than a similar engine with a higher CR and less boost - and the one with higher CR will be considerably more snappy and lively.

I mean, the original 'Jetfire' turbocharged V8 ran a 10:1 compression ratio. The newer Skyline still runs 9:1 too.

Most factory engines, with factory bits, will take 5-8PSI without complaining, provided you can control fuel, ignition and intake temperature well enough :)
Click to expand...
 
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