Water cooling pitfalls and perils...

Andrew G · 18 Jul 2010 at 15:19

Over the years I have built many systems for myself and friends, upgraded, removed viruses but through these years I have steered clear of making a water cooling rig for two main reason. Cost and Fear. From what I can see if you want to build a CPU/GPU/Chip set system you are some what forced to buy the higher tier boards otherwise you won't find chip set blocks. And unless you buy a factory GPU you may if your unlucky kill your GPU getting the HSF off and the water block on, specially if the water block doesn't quite fit those VRM's as promised in the manufactures blurb (as read on here).

So I have been reading which basically means hitting google and hoping you have put the right string in to get some good results, so I started with "Water cooling guide" and got the below

The Ultimate Water Cooling Guide

Pay dirt or so I thought

Next I thought why look outside of the hallowed pages so this time I tried "inurl:http://forums.overclockers.co.uk AND water cooling guide", but only got the sticky cooling guide which describes all the different cooling methodologies.

What I am after is basically some thing that gives you some diagrams of different ways to plumb the stuff in. Much like a house's central heating system where you might have an S plan or an equal pressure manifold system etc. Also I was looking at a Coolermaster ATCS 840 Classic Case to house my new build would running a 2x240mm rad in the roof be better that a 3x120mm one?

Also there seems to be two types of rads thin and thick (ok not the best way to describe but I was drawing a blank). In one of the manufactures sites they do both thickness but list with the same thermal stat's so is there an advantage of one over the other since they have to same amount of cores with the same core diameters.

Frozennova · 18 Jul 2010 at 15:50

The order a loop is set up makes little difference once the system has been on a while as water temperature will equalize. Although the general rule of thumb for flow is

RESEVOIR->PUMP->RADIATOR->CPU

It becomes a little more complex once you start adding a second rad or a GPU for example, but as GPUs and chipsets don't mind running a little warmer they a placed after the CPU.

Do you mean 2x120.2 rads vs a 120.3 rad, if so two dual rads will be better than a single as it will give increased surface area.

Thin rads performe worse than they're thicker counterparts and require difference types of fans. Thin rads almost solely rely on air flow alone so the higher the CFM of the fans the better cooling, however thicker rads allow you to use lower RPM and CFM fans that have high static pressure something which comes more down to blade design and creates less noise.

A single 120.1 rad such as the XSPC RS120 (31mm thick) will sufficiently cool a CPU, however if you wanted to put anything else in the loop you would preferably want a thicker 120.2 rad such as the EK Coolstream XT 240(50mm thick)

I hope that answers at least some of your questions

OLDPHART · 18 Jul 2010 at 16:57

Hi have just built my first custom h2o loop and l have got mine set up as follows -

Rad > > Res

ump > > CPU > > GPU > > Back To Rad

All together my components came to £300, the best advice l can gave you is read up about water cooling theres plenty info on the net, research the compoments you think you might buy, reviews ,etc, and ask peeps in the forum for advice also.

My Components -
Black Ice GT Stealth 360 Radiator.
Heatkiller CPU Waterblock Revision 3 (Socket LGA1366).
XSCP X2O 750 Dual 5.25” Bay Reservoir Pump.
XSCP Razor 5870 Full Cover VGA Water-Block.
Akasa AK-FN059 120mm Ultra Quiet Viper Cool Fan x3.
Masterkleer tubing, Fitting’s, PWM Fan Splitter Cable, Thermochill EC6 Coolent

Hope this helps > OLDPHART.

scrlk · 18 Jul 2010 at 17:05

Out of interest, if one wanted to use 2 rads, would they use a Y fitting to split the water flow and another to recombine it?

Jokester · 18 Jul 2010 at 17:09

That's one way to do it, the alternative is to put them in series which is probably the simpler method. Splitting them should give marginally better temperatures.

Andrew G · 18 Jul 2010 at 18:44

The case I had thought of using houses two 140mm fans in the roof but brackets are supplied to convert to three 120mm fans. I was doing a little research last night and came across 140.2 rad (double rad which are 140mm wide by 280mm long approx) which would be a direct plug in to the roof. Is it just a simple as 140x280x50=1960000mm^3 vs 120x360x50=2160000mm^3? ergo the tripple 120mm rad would be better since it has greater volume?

Frozennova · 18 Jul 2010 at 20:50

You would be correct in thinking the 120mm triple would cool better than the 140mm dual.

Its generally accepted that the loop is plumbed in series as this reduces pressure and flow rate drops

jellybeard999 · 18 Jul 2010 at 21:02

Jokester said:
That's one way to do it, the alternative is to put them in series which is probably the simpler method. Splitting them should give marginally better temperatures.

The flaw being that you're assuming flow to both is equal. Everything in series IMO. Use the shortest and smoothest route possible. Disregard any thoughts about loop order other than having the reservoir before the pump at a greater height. Avoid manifolds, angled barbs and anything with Aquacomputer written on the side and you wont go far wrong

With regards to radiators - the first consideration is do you want a quiet system? If so, you want a low density radiator to allow as much of the small amount of airflow through as possible, but sacrificing cooling ability. If you just want the best cooling get the densest radiator you can find, a couple of Delta EHEs and some earplugs

Do some reading here - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70

Jokester · 18 Jul 2010 at 21:14

jellybeard999 said:
The flaw being that you're assuming flow to both is equal. Everything in series IMO. Use the shortest and smoothest route possible. Disregard any thoughts about loop order other than having the reservoir before the pump at a greater height. Avoid manifolds, angled barbs and anything with Aquacomputer written on the side and you wont go far wrong

Doesn't matter with radiators as much, you will decrease the pressure loss meaning increased flow through your blocks in the common line where flow does matter more, particularly with high resistance CPU blocks.

Andrew G · 19 Jul 2010 at 21:27

Ok so I have been having a look and think I have had a thought, tell me what you think guys and gals

Coolermaster ATCS 840 Classic Case - Black
1x120.3 (50mm thick) CPU and Chipset [in roof]
1x120.2 (50mm thick) GPU with a view to go Crossfire at a letter date (5870 if I can find water block) [in front]
XSPC Rasa Black CPU Acetal (got some rally good reviews for lower temps and higher flow than others)
Chipset water block, although this may limit the board I choose still juggling ideas.
XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir for Two Laing DDC's (to supply each loop)
Not sure what what pump goes with above res, XSPC Laing DDC Top?
Gloss Black tubing to suit.

My biggest problem is the connectors I would need, I know what ID and OD mean and it seems 1/2" is the way to go and I am guessing G1/4" is the female screw end that will go into blocks, res and pumps?

And then a cart load of 120mm fans. Which lead me to the whole push pull "thing" having 6 fans on a 120.3 rad really a lot better than 3?

mike gunnz · 20 Jul 2010 at 10:34

Yeah G1/4 refers to the thread size.

By connectors I take it you're referring to 'barbs' you may also want to consider using compression fittings, which I much prefer.

1/2" or 7/16" tubing with 1/2" barbs is a popular combo. I use 7/16" Bitspower compressions with 7/16" Tygon tubing.

1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing will give you an extremely tight fit with little chance of your tubing working itself loose once up and running.

Try to go for tubing with a thicker wall to avoid tube kinking. Kinking will drastically reduce flow rates.

With your chosen res I doubt you will need to buy pump tops. Laing DDC 18w or 10w will work with the res.

I find chipset water cooling to be an unnecessary hassle personally. It doesn't improve overclocking noticeably, adds expense, clutters your case and also more potential points of failure. But this of course is just my opinion.

Edit/ Also consider the Corsair 800D, helluva water cooling case.

madindehead · 20 Jul 2010 at 11:01

Just something I wanted to add to this about the case. I own a Coolermaster ATCS 840, but I don't think it would make the best case for watercooling. Best to look at the Corsair 800D. Or I think Silverstone make a case which is commonly used for watercooling.

As for the rest, I know nothing sadly