Changing Brake Pads on EVO X with Gibbo

I guess it's just the extreme attention to detail that got me, that and how long it all took. Being fair, you did it on your drive with possibly not all the ideal tools for the job.
 
you should use the correct tool to push the pistons back on 4 pot callipers

levering them against the other side of the calliper or the disk not a good idea.

Did you also not get new retaining clips with your new pads ? Usually replace the retaining clips at the same time or they can create an annoying rattle.
 
Using the xp8's here at the moment gibbo, not tooo bad on dust, even on me te37's. Think the 10's are pretty bad though. Helped my shockingly bad brakes :-D
 
realscot said:
When i started to read this how to, it felt like i was sitting in a health and saftey lecture, then i realised it was about changing brake pads. Never seen someone be so anal about changing pads before!
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i know, because whats wrong with changing your brakes and having nuts and bolts left over?

if youve got nuts and bolts left over thats just weight reduction INNIT
 
realscot said:
When i started to read this how to, it felt like i was sitting in a health and saftey lecture, then i realised it was about changing brake pads. Never seen someone be so anal about changing pads before!
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For someone who has never changed pads before and wants to do it properly, then they might appreciate such a guide.

Good work as always Gibbo. Is it me or do those discs look a little skinny?
 
redeye_uk said:
For someone who has never changed pads before and wants to do it properly, then they might appreciate such a guide.

Good work as always Gibbo. Is it me or do those discs look a little skinny?
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Front ones are pretty huge to be honest and two-piece, don't even ask how much a replacement pair is, its truly shocking. They are 365mm or 350mm up front so certainly not small. :)
 
realscot said:
I guess it's just the extreme attention to detail that got me, that and how long it all took. Being fair, you did it on your drive with possibly not all the ideal tools for the job.
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Now I've done it once, with a 4 poster ramp I could easily do all four in 90 minutes or less. :)
 
Quite expensive pads no doubt! But then again that is for all four corners, so not too bad really. Just read on the Mitsubishi site that you do indeed have 350mm discs, that look very very expensive to replace :D
 
Wanna make it easier get yourself a caliper winding tool, I have one, cost me £27 but is it worth it, winds the pistons in easy, brings the time right down and makes the job so much easier.
 
ScoobyDoo69 said:
Quite expensive pads no doubt! But then again that is for all four corners, so not too bad really. Just read on the Mitsubishi site that you do indeed have 350mm discs, that look very very expensive to replace :D
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The pads from Mitsubishi with discount for the stock Brembo pads was also £400. So happy to get a better performing pad for same money anyday. :)
 
Banny said:
Wanna make it easier get yourself a caliper winding tool, I have one, cost me £27 but is it worth it, winds the pistons in easy, brings the time right down and makes the job so much easier.
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The pistons were very easy, never gave any trouble. As I do have such a tool but never needed to use it on Brembo calipers before. :)

Where things slowed down was knocking the rear pins out to release the pads, things were rather grubby which meant bigger hammer time and lots of swearing but they eventually came. :)
 
Aha, it was just a general suggestion for the thread really, seeing as you have one, you would know how useful they are.
 
It looks as if you put the copper grease on the parts of the hub that the wheel doesn't make contact with?
 
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