Tell me about the LeonCupra R
- Thread starter Sam
- Start date
Associate
- Joined
- 24 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 2,391
- Location
- Cambridge
I've had mine for 3.5 years now with relatively few problems. They're not cheap to run though so I'm thinking of changing to something cheap and boring (the joys of home ownership). Here's a few things to look out for
The door seals can go resulting in water in the footwells. Happened to mine on the passanger side. However it was simply fixed by removing the trim from the door and squirting some silicon sealant in the gap. I've also heard it can happen if the pollen filter isn't fitted properly.
Coil pack failure is also pretty common but aren't too much to replace. I've never had that problem though.
Although not a common problem an issue that crops up quite a bit is the slave cylinder on the clutch failing. It's a gearbox-out job to fix. Mine is in the garage at the moment having this and the clutch replaced.
From reading around on the seat forums, people don't say a baffled sump is essential for track use but I had it done just to be safe.
The biggest gain on a standard car is getting it remapped. Expect around 260bhp. This puts more stress on the already weak diverter valve so make sure it's replaced with an aftermarket one. I have a turbosmart valve on mine which I can adjust to allow some air to go back into the intake and some into the atmosphere. If you don't allow enough air back into the intake it can start overfueling and run rough. In extrmeme cases go into limp mode.
Handling wise fitting a rear anti-roll bar makes a big improvement as it cuts out a lot of the understeer.
Also on the track I found fitting coilovers made a big improvement in cornering speed. I went for KW V1's although much firmer the ride over bumps and potholes is no worse than the standard setup.
Running costs aren't cheap. I average about 30mpg on super unleaded. Brake parts are expensive, I payed £250 for front discs and pads. Servicing costs aren't too bad with intervals at 10k miles. Also make sure that the cam belt has been replaced at 4 years or 40k miles. It says check at 60k in the handbook but they brought it forward.
There were 2 versions, 210 and 225bhp. All the mechanical bits are pretty much identical and remap to the same figures. But with £7k I'd expect a late 225.
There's only a couple of options availiable. Recaro seats and sat-nav (very rare). The recaro seats on the 210 were in the front and rear while the 225 was only in the front. I have them in mine and although looking pretty much identical in the front I found them much more comfortable.
The door seals can go resulting in water in the footwells. Happened to mine on the passanger side. However it was simply fixed by removing the trim from the door and squirting some silicon sealant in the gap. I've also heard it can happen if the pollen filter isn't fitted properly.
Coil pack failure is also pretty common but aren't too much to replace. I've never had that problem though.
Although not a common problem an issue that crops up quite a bit is the slave cylinder on the clutch failing. It's a gearbox-out job to fix. Mine is in the garage at the moment having this and the clutch replaced.
From reading around on the seat forums, people don't say a baffled sump is essential for track use but I had it done just to be safe.
The biggest gain on a standard car is getting it remapped. Expect around 260bhp. This puts more stress on the already weak diverter valve so make sure it's replaced with an aftermarket one. I have a turbosmart valve on mine which I can adjust to allow some air to go back into the intake and some into the atmosphere. If you don't allow enough air back into the intake it can start overfueling and run rough. In extrmeme cases go into limp mode.
Handling wise fitting a rear anti-roll bar makes a big improvement as it cuts out a lot of the understeer.
Also on the track I found fitting coilovers made a big improvement in cornering speed. I went for KW V1's although much firmer the ride over bumps and potholes is no worse than the standard setup.
Running costs aren't cheap. I average about 30mpg on super unleaded. Brake parts are expensive, I payed £250 for front discs and pads. Servicing costs aren't too bad with intervals at 10k miles. Also make sure that the cam belt has been replaced at 4 years or 40k miles. It says check at 60k in the handbook but they brought it forward.
There were 2 versions, 210 and 225bhp. All the mechanical bits are pretty much identical and remap to the same figures. But with £7k I'd expect a late 225.
There's only a couple of options availiable. Recaro seats and sat-nav (very rare). The recaro seats on the 210 were in the front and rear while the 225 was only in the front. I have them in mine and although looking pretty much identical in the front I found them much more comfortable.
It was checked both pre and post incident, and was found to be clean on both occasions. And it certainly didn't have "*****" service intervals.
The problem was literally the oil sloshing away from the pickup (why it's not in the center of the sump I have no idea), which in turn lead to piston 3 seizing due to a spun cap.
Trying to think back on my LCR it has had:
Back windscreen wiper is RUBBISH. Still need to change mine for a Fabia wiper.
Platinum grey is the best colour!
- 3 coil packs go (fourth replaced for good measure). This was all within 2 weeks.
- Water pump was totally busted, this was replaced while the cam belt was done
Back windscreen wiper is RUBBISH. Still need to change mine for a Fabia wiper.
Platinum grey is the best colour!
Agreed. One of the best mods I did was fit the labia rear (aerotwin) wiper.
Truth!
what were the intervals for those cars or did they avoid AVS long life servicing all together?
those engines in the VWs and Audis were subject to their stupid longlife schedules which cause all sorts of issues. you wouldnt beleive the state of the oil pump ive seen coming out of those. the older (10k interval ones) are always in so much better condition
Soldato
- Joined
- 10 Oct 2006
- Posts
- 3,703
270-280bhp is the maximum for the stock ko4 turbo. The engine internals are good for up to 350bhp after that it needs uprated conrods.
Spec
Anthracite powder coated alloy wheels
Seat Cupra MK2 K1 gear knob
Seat option chrome mirror covers
Seat honeycomb upper grille kit
Forge front mounted intercooler
Jabbasport induction kit
Full forge silicone boost hoses
De-baffled custom charge pipe
Full Custom one off ss exhaust system
with 3 inch down pipe and racing CAT
Custom 3'' turbo intake pipe
Forge Blow off Valve (yellow Spring)
Powerflex dog-bone mount
Neuspeed front and rear ARBs
Koni FSD dampers
Eibach pro springs
N249 Bypass
APR Stage 2 Remap with V tune laptop adjustability.
Alpine ipod stereo with hands free
Boost gague
Race Diagnostics in-car OBD2 reader display.
8000K HID conversion.
Anthracite powder coated alloy wheels
Seat Cupra MK2 K1 gear knob
Seat option chrome mirror covers
Seat honeycomb upper grille kit
Forge front mounted intercooler
Jabbasport induction kit
Full forge silicone boost hoses
De-baffled custom charge pipe
Full Custom one off ss exhaust system
with 3 inch down pipe and racing CAT
Custom 3'' turbo intake pipe
Forge Blow off Valve (yellow Spring)
Powerflex dog-bone mount
Neuspeed front and rear ARBs
Koni FSD dampers
Eibach pro springs
N249 Bypass
APR Stage 2 Remap with V tune laptop adjustability.
Alpine ipod stereo with hands free
Boost gague
Race Diagnostics in-car OBD2 reader display.
8000K HID conversion.
Last edited:
I'll give it 2 months
No chance, im done with 182's forever
I only did around 1000 miles in that black one and hey its still on my drive as i sold it to my brother The Seat is great, very fast (quicker than the scoob) and handles very well ... was very well looked after by the previous owner which is nice
Sam
^ as said.
be sold in no time once boredom kicks in
6 months, i like to change often its more fun