water cooling for beginners

Hey will a D5 be enough for a 750ml res>Black Ice SR-1 360 Radiator>EK-Supreme HF - Full Nickel CPU Water Block>back to res.

And will that set-up allow me to add a VGA block in the future or would i need to add another rad maybe a Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Radiator only a example.


But the cpu loop seems a definate after looking at reviews and such this morning
 
Easily, my setup is almost identical

d5>sr1-420>ek supreme hf>ek fc5870>ek multi res 250

I run the pump on 2 and it's silent.
 
JeffyB said:
Easily, my setup is almost identical

d5>sr1-420>ek supreme hf>ek fc5870>ek multi res 250

I run the pump on 2 and it's silent.
Click to expand...

If needed would it allow the use of a double rad on the side panel after leaving the cpu block to further cool the liquid before enter the gpu?

also how do you bleed an enclosed loop?
 
D5 will cope with the added rad, you may need to use a slightly higher setting, 3 or 4 maybe.

When you fill the loop for the first time, you fill from the res and the next component has to be the pump so it is primed. I filled my res up and using a psu bridging plug (you can do the paper clip trick but for £1 seemed better to just buy the plug) turn on the pump so that the water from the res goes around the loop, turn it off before the res empties. Repeat this until water comes back around the loop and the res fills from the water already in the loop. The pump may make gargling noises as air bubbles pass through it, this noise will dissapear once all the air is out.

At this point i let the loop run for a few minutes to allow the water to push the easy to get to air out of the loop, turning it off as soon as the water in the res dropps and got close to the bottom. Then top up the res again and turn on and allow to run, keeping an eye on the water level in the res and again turn off if it gets low and top up.

You'll notice the water balances after a while, the res will be full of tiny bubbles that will go over time. Now it's time to get the air out thats stuck in the rad, corners of blocks and any high points in the tubing. Make sure your res has all the caps on and there are no open inlets/outlets in the loop. Depending on how your loop is set up you'll chase the bubbles out differently but the principle is the same.

Turn on the pump and move the system so that the rad is upright (fittings at the top) making sure the air in res does not go out of outlet. This will bring air to the top of the rad and move it to the next component, the cpu block. Again move the system so the outlet on the cpu block is the highest point and the air will move round to the next component. Repeat on each subsequent component until all the air reaches the res. Top up the res at any point that it gets too low that the pump would not be primed.

Let the system run for what you feel is long enough to leak test (8-24hours generally) before you put the rest of the pc components in. Over this time some more air may work its way out and the system will become quieter and quieter until it's silent. Hope that makes sense :)
 
JeffyB you saying I will have to play rubix cube with my laden 700D when its ready?! haha better hit the gym more then...
 
Hey jeffy heafty research night, just wanted to ask what you used to flush your rad and what fluid did you use pre-mixed off the shelf or distilled and a biocide

this whole chemical reaction thing scares me do'nt want my cou block being eaten away then one day just exploding all over my pc:eek:
 
bigjimmyauk said:
Hey jeffy heafty research night, just wanted to ask what you used to flush your rad and what fluid did you use pre-mixed off the shelf or distilled and a biocide

this whole chemical reaction thing scares me do'nt want my cou block being eaten away then one day just exploding all over my pc:eek:
Click to expand...

Flushing a rad usually involves boiling water being poured in to the res, the holes being closed up and leaving it. Drain in to a bowl and see if there are any particles in the water. If so, repeat the process until there are no more particles.

Don't use anything other then distilled and pt-nuke. Colourants stain and gunk up your loop. Pre-mixed is not worth it.

Also, unless you filled up your system with strong hydrofluoric acid nothing it going to get eaten away.
 
Vinni3 @H|H said:
Flushing a rad usually involves boiling water being poured in to the res, the holes being closed up and leaving it. Drain in to a bowl and see if there are any particles in the water. If so, repeat the process until there are no more particles.

Don't use anything other then distilled and pt-nuke. Colourants stain and gunk up your loop. Pre-mixed is not worth it.

Also, unless you filled up your system with strong hydrofluoric acid nothing it going to get eaten away.
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I thought that mixing for example nickel blocks and copper blo0cks can cause chemical reactions that can eat away at the metals, Pretty sure we did this in science at school and you can't mix certain metals under flowing water.

Thinking about it it was called galvenic errosion or something along those lines
 
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bigjimmyauk said:
I thought that mixing for example nickel blocks and copper blo0cks can cause chemical reactions that can eat away at the metals, Pretty sure we did this in science at school and you can't mix certain metals under flowing water.

Thinking about it it was called galvenic errosion or something along those lines
Click to expand...

I would go for a all nickel block setup as copper tends to be high maintenance (if you want it to look good) because it oxidises so quickly. The nickel plating will not cause any drops in performance

EDIT:
Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially when in electrical contact with a different type of metal and both metals are immersed in an electrolyte.
 
I boiled some distilled water and let it stand for a couple of minutes. Then filled the rad and plugged the rad inlets and let it sit for a few minutes. Then emptied half the water out (be careful rad maybe very hot, use a towel or gloves) into a bowl resealed and shook the rad for a couple of minutes. Empty the rest of the water into the and checked for any flux (will be blue/green/grey flecks). I repeated this till the water came out clear, was 8 times in total.

Your components are absolutely fine together and you should not see any galvonic corrosion as you are not mixing metals (aluminium being the biggest culprit). I use distilled water and a silver coil in my res, pretty standard and cost effective.
 
After some more Wikipedia reading, I think you can use copper and nickel blocks in the same loop.

Harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments, fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index"

Nickel, solid or plated, titanium an s alloys, Monel: 0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder; German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys 0.35

A 0.5 percent difference will not cause corrosion of any kind.
 
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