955 & 965 OC question!

Here's comes some advice. I'm not going to be replying to anyone elses posts as I haven't got time to read them.

If you're hoping to end up with a 4.0ghz 6 core, there are only two routes, overclocking the FSB (technically isn't an FSB, it's an HTRef these days), or overclocking on the multiplier.

In my experience on a 790X board, overclocking on the multiplier is much easier, but with a bit more time and thought, you can reach great results on the FSB too. As you can see from Martini1991's results, with his 4.4ghz bench runs and 4.25ghz stable out of a 95w 1055t.

Either way, the loftier heights will cost you more. As far as I can tell, no Gigabyte board is capable of the 360+ FSB bus speeds needed to reach those kind of clocks on a locked multiplier. I've done a bit of reading, and the UD5 seems to top out at around 260 for most people.

If you want a board for that kind of overclocking on the FSB, it has to be the Crosshair. Lets say you go down the route of the Crosshair and a 95w 1055t. This will cost about £330. The disadvantages being it's a more difficult overclocking proceedure, but the advantages are you end up with that board, so you get the highest 890FX chipset, Trifire support, and of course, it's red.

The other route, the multi route, means you could get a much cheaper board, but you need an unlocked multiplier chip, to compare like with like, it's got to be a 6 core, and therefore the 1090t, which will cost £225 on it's own. For a board though, you can choose pretty much anything, but I'd recommend the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5, it still has Trifire support, and the 890FX chipset, but costs £165. If you don't require Trifire support though, you could go one step lower to the 890GPA-UD3H, which has Crossfire support, the next Chipset down but costs £105. This means like for like, the multiplier option will cost you £390, or £330 if you go one step down on the board.

This is just my opinion, it doesn't take into account cooling or the case you'll be using.

These are also based on getting max clocks from the chip. Personally I'd go for the 890GPA-UD3H (how lucky, I already have one of those), and a 95w 1055t, and overclock as far as I could make it go. I wouldn't reach 4.3ghz, but I'd probably reach around 4.0ghz, and it'd cost around £265. You'd still get crossfire support, and a decent chipset, USB3, SATA3, and all the other features besides. You just miss out on the higher clocks, the option of Trifire, and the higher chipset.
 
The gigabyte UD3H isn't that great mate, not bus clocking anyways.
I find the CH4 a limit on its bus at times, given the way in which I overclock.
It's 4+1 really hampers it. The Gigabyte that is.

Although tbf, your advice is stellar, and the OP'd be right to listen.
 
Here's comes some advice. I'm not going to be replying to anyone elses posts as I haven't got time to read them.

If you're hoping to end up with a 4.0ghz 6 core, there are only two routes, overclocking the FSB (technically isn't an FSB, it's an HTRef these days), or overclocking on the multiplier.

In my experience on a 790X board, overclocking on the multiplier is much easier, but with a bit more time and thought, you can reach great results on the FSB too. As you can see from Martini1991's results, with his 4.4ghz bench runs and 4.25ghz stable out of a 95w 1055t.

Either way, the loftier heights will cost you more. As far as I can tell, no Gigabyte board is capable of the 360+ FSB bus speeds needed to reach those kind of clocks on a locked multiplier. I've done a bit of reading, and the UD5 seems to top out at around 260 for most people.

If you want a board for that kind of overclocking on the FSB, it has to be the Crosshair. Lets say you go down the route of the Crosshair and a 95w 1055t. This will cost about £330. The disadvantages being it's a more difficult overclocking proceedure, but the advantages are you end up with that board, so you get the highest 890FX chipset, Trifire support, and of course, it's red.

The other route, the multi route, means you could get a much cheaper board, but you need an unlocked multiplier chip, to compare like with like, it's got to be a 6 core, and therefore the 1090t, which will cost £225 on it's own. For a board though, you can choose pretty much anything, but I'd recommend the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5, it still has Trifire support, and the 890FX chipset, but costs £165. If you don't require Trifire support though, you could go one step lower to the 890GPA-UD3H, which has Crossfire support, the next Chipset down but costs £105. This means like for like, the multiplier option will cost you £390, or £330 if you go one step down on the board.

This is just my opinion, it doesn't take into account cooling or the case you'll be using.

These are also based on getting max clocks from the chip. Personally I'd go for the 890GPA-UD3H (how lucky, I already have one of those), and a 95w 1055t, and overclock as far as I could make it go. I wouldn't reach 4.3ghz, but I'd probably reach around 4.0ghz, and it'd cost around £265. You'd still get crossfire support, and a decent chipset, USB3, SATA3, and all the other features besides. You just miss out on the higher clocks, the option of Trifire, and the higher chipset.

I haven't come across a gigabyte board I couldn't reach 300+ htt on, even their 770 boards :) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1066755 there's an old 790x that I had up over 400 on occasion. I know the current 890 gigabyte boards will boot to windows at 360+ htt and carry on up.
 
I haven't come across a gigabyte board I couldn't reach 300+ htt on, even their 770 boards :) http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1066755 there's an old 790x that I had up over 400 on occasion. I know the current 890 gigabyte boards will boot to windows at 360+ htt and carry on up.

?
The 790FXTA will only do like 250 and that was there flagship a few months back.
Unless you're on some L2N etc.
 
The gigabyte UD3H isn't that great mate, not bus clocking anyways.
I find the CH4 a limit on its bus at times, given the way in which I overclock.
It's 4+1 really hampers it. The Gigabyte that is.

Although tbf, your advice is stellar, and the OP'd be right to listen.

It should still be good for 3.8ghz at least though? I was thinking of a more budget option. I know it struggles when it comes to bus clocking, but even if it only reaches 3.4ghz, that's a 965BE with two extra cores for £25 extra. (Comparing 125w versions).

And thanks. :) He's been doing the right thing so far though, not just listening to the loudest voice and taking everyone's opinions into considoration. I just hope it helps and serves as a bit of a summary of both sides of the discussion that's been going on in this thread so far.
 
im now confused :confused: lol:)

maybe ill just go for the GA-890GPA-UD3H
seeing as im only going to be learning
overclocking wen i get this rig, i guess its better
frying a £104 rather than a £170 if i mess up.
it would be a shame to wreck such a nice looking board:)

the GA-890GPA-UD3H will be more than enuff to get
me started i think.

mayb they should just make 3 boards for all. basic, medium and high end. save all this head turning.
 
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?
The 790FXTA will only do like 250 and that was there flagship a few months back.
Unless you're on some L2N etc.

LOL That's balls! it goes way further. I would like to find the person who decided to spread this misconception and give them a slap...

Just for arguments sake there is a validation with that board on air at 350 http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1343219


@ Jakesnake. Either of those boards are capable of getting you a nice stable OC well above 4.0 even with a 1055t :)
 
I used the 790FXTA. I never bus clocked though.
In reviews the Gigabyte UD7 is shy of 300...
God knows how some people magically manage to get bus speeds ridiculously high.
 
By knowing how to overclock maybe? :p

Most reviewers don't even touch the northbridge clocks on AMD setups so it doesn't surprise me that they don't have a clue when it comes to htt overclocking either.
 
Not sure if it's been mentioned but it's worth to mention that Cool n quiet on my 955 stopped working at a x19 multiplier. So for 4GHz I had something like 240MHz x 16.5. Not sure if you want cool n quiet but it is nice to save some power. :D

Cool and Quiet is best left disabled when you're overclocking or have overclocked, causes some minor problems.
 
or maybe the M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 would be a nice compromise

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-393-AS

although in the review, ppl have said about issues with the F3 spinpoint
and thats the HDD im getting. that review was 4months ago would it
be possible that its now fixed at factory level and now shipped updated?

wot you guys think?

If you're thinking of going for that board, I'd strongly recommend going for the UD3H instead, it has a much nicer BIOS and better build quality IMO.

My last ASUS board was pants, the M4A79XTD EVO. The Vdroop on it was so severe that when overclocking and using a 1.55v vcore, it would droop as low as 1.48v.

Obviously that's not comparing like with like, but I've heard of similar issues with the new one.

Cool and Quiet is best left disabled when you're overclocking or have overclocked, causes some minor problems.

I've heard this before, but I never had a problem running CnQ with my CPU clocked to 3.8ghz.
 
in my opinion, the op needs the following

980X
rampage 3
trisli 480s

only then will this thread end.
 
Cool and Quiet is best left disabled when you're overclocking or have overclocked, causes some minor problems.

What minor issues? I haven't had any. :)

Although, I definitely agree with having it off for overclocking and stability testing.
 
im now confused :confused: lol:)
I don't blame you! :p

Nothing relevant in "real-world" has been offered to you since we last spoke, there is just a bunch of addicted-overclockers trying to "justify" their hobby by trying to "indoctrinate" you . . . I've been overclocking for longer than most and it took me many years to realise the "deception" . . . hence why I am making a little effort here to steer you on your way . . .

The hardware these days performs "stunningly" out the box and will make you pleased as punch . . . if you spend beyond a certain point your never going to notice the difference in the world outside the "crazy" OCD overclocking scene . . .

I wouldn't want to deprive you of your own personal first hand experience but take it from me that your best getting in, working out what hardware meets your required "needs", buying & building it, running it at stock for a bit to get a feel (and making sure all the hardware is non-faulty), then come back and I will personally help you "Tweak" your machine to get the best from it and then send you on your way back to the "real-world" keeping as much of your cash £££ in your pocket as possible before you get "duped"

They are after you jakesnake! . . . time is running out heh! :cool:

the loftier heights will cost you more
 
sounds good wayne. a little tweakin is all im looking to learn,
not gonna try and break the records with a liquid nitrogen
cooled 980X lol

as long as i can stay ahead of the highest game specs out im happy :)
 
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