i need help with RC CAR

will that work with my batteries they have a tamiya connection.

Should do....you get a bunch of connectors with the charger.
Wicked charger if you get a genuine iMax B6.....lots of copies out there so be careful what you buy.
I have one and really rate it.

As for meshing the motor and the spur gear the paper trick is the recognised way to do it.
 
Last edited:
The iMax B6 is a very good charger yes, but it wont balance the packs you are using. When you balance Li-po's its because there are the balance leads wired to each cell. With the 7.4V Ni-MH packs you use they don't have the balance leads wired up as its not as vital on Ni-HH cells as it is on Li-Po cells.
That said, as long as you are aware of that, its still a very good charger for what you want.
 
I remember charging my 1800 ni-cd's with a charger with a temperature probe. It did thermal sensing as well as peak charging and had a full charge/discharge pack conditioner setting.
Pro-peak something I think it was.
 
The iMax B6 is a very good charger yes, but it wont balance the packs you are using. When you balance Li-po's its because there are the balance leads wired to each cell. With the 7.4V Ni-MH packs you use they don't have the balance leads wired up as its not as vital on Ni-HH cells as it is on Li-Po cells.
That said, as long as you are aware of that, its still a very good charger for what you want.

No charger will balance charge Nicads or NiMH packs as they only have the two leads so it is not a failing of the charger that you cannot balance charge those types.
 
This chap is obviously new to RC and your recommending an IMAX B6????

That is a 12v only charger right? so you'll need to pop the bonnet of your car and charge form the 12v, or get a 240-12v power supply. Plus really only needed for lipo charging, get somehting simple that runs off 240v, charges at 4 amps or so, NIMH dont like slow charges they loose all their punch.

have a look through here:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=Category&CategoryID=992070

the nimh packs will be ok for that combo so long as you get a reasonable quality one. You could go to lipo but thats extra expense and they are not as robust, I wouldnt recommend it if your just starting out.

If you can find a spec for the speedo you may well be able to use a battery with more volts, brushless comes alive with higher voltage, but while the motor will usually be ok the ESC will be rated to a certain number of cells that you cannot exceed (having said that, doesnt look like a 7 cell will fit in the chassis anyway unless its a hump pack)
 
how far out does it need to go 1-2mm?

Back it off so it looks like this:

8242010matrixxxxtsale08.jpg


If it's too tight you'll cause the motor to overheat.
 
No charger will balance charge Nicads or NiMH packs as they only have the two leads so it is not a failing of the charger that you cannot balance charge those types.

Thats pretty much what I said? Well at least what I was trying to get across. The reason I brought it up was that earlier in the thread people were using the fact that it is a balance charger as a reason to buy it. Thats fine but unless the OP is going to be buying LiPo's to run in the touring car then its not really a feature he needs.

For what he needs something like a Pro-Peak charger would be best.
 
No charger will balance charge Nicads or NiMH packs as they only have the two leads so it is not a failing of the charger that you cannot balance charge those types.

Thats pretty much what I said? Well at least what I was trying to get across. The reason I brought it up was that earlier in the thread people were using the fact that it is a balance charger as a reason to buy it. Thats fine but unless the OP is going to be buying LiPo's to run in the touring car then its not really a feature he needs.

For what he needs something like a Pro-Peak charger would be best.
 
i have received my batteries now and have charged them up i went out for a bit of a play i used the good old battery it lasted about 6mins put the new batery in and the car was soo much faster i'd guess about twice the speed and last 15mins+ (didn't really time it) i've checked the packaging and it is definitly 7.2v 4500mah.
is the battery i thought was good not right or is the new batteries overvolting?
also i'm looking into the charger http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=ShowSpecification&ItemID=32523 will this be ok,

i'm not to sure about balancing batteries, i'm tempted to buy the charger that one of you suggested does it come with detailed instructions?
 
is the battery i thought was good not right or is the new batteries overvolting?

Neither, as has already been said, it's to do with the mAh, your 'old' battery is just Pathetic at 1800mAh, thats all.

on this question i meant the fact the car seemed to be nearly twice as quick.
i know MAH simply means how much charge it can hold thus giving longer running times but does it affect the speed is what i'm trying to find out i guess?
 
on this question i meant the fact the car seemed to be nearly twice as quick.
i know MAH simply means how much charge it can hold thus giving longer running times but does it affect the speed is what i'm trying to find out i guess?

With such a huge jump from 1800 to 4500 Yes it does.
 
Last edited:
With my vintage Tamiya Thundershot I went from a 20 year old 1700mAh NiCD to a 3000mAh NiMH and it lasted longer and also ran faster.
 
Changing to higher amps wont affect the speed, only the runtime, but you will find the newer pack can supply the power more efficiently and you'll get a speed boost from there.

That charger will be fine for what you are doing. The bit's to be looking out for are "Delta peak charger" which means it will detect when the pack in fully charged and drop to a lower charge rate to stop it over charging.
 
Thread hijack - anyone in or around north yorkshire that knows about nitro r/c ?

I have a Thunder Tiger TS4N or something like that that i'd like some help to get it running if possible.
 
Looking at the location of the burn on the battery pack and what you described i.e. it didn't work at all and the battery seemed dead then it set on fire, I'd have a guess that there could have been a short that heated one of the tabs that then set the battery heatshrink on fire, none of the cells themselves in your photos look misshapen or damaged which I'd expect if they'd been on fire.
 
Back
Top Bottom