106 Gearbox/Linkage Problems
- Thread starter Batf1nk
- Start date
Gearbox off and clutch fork looks fine.
Clutch, although worn quite low shows no other sign of damage.
Feeling a proper rage coming on now!!!
Car will go into all gears fine when engines off. Won't go into 1st, 2nd or reverse whilst engine is running.
Help.
Clutch, although worn quite low shows no other sign of damage.
Feeling a proper rage coming on now!!!
Car will go into all gears fine when engines off. Won't go into 1st, 2nd or reverse whilst engine is running.
Help.
Have you looked closely at Part "A" at the point where it connects with "B", common to have it bend there at the joint, hard to spot if you aren't looking closely.
Gearbox is clearly rotating when it shouldn't be when the pedal is depressed.
It's either:-
The cable travel is not far enough (bent part "A" at joint of "B")
The cover is not releasing the driven plate properly (bent/warped driven plate, broken spring / cover)
The release bearing is worn or broken
or the spigot bearing is seized.
Gearbox is clearly rotating when it shouldn't be when the pedal is depressed.
It's either:-
The cable travel is not far enough (bent part "A" at joint of "B")
The cover is not releasing the driven plate properly (bent/warped driven plate, broken spring / cover)
The release bearing is worn or broken
or the spigot bearing is seized.
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did it creep or move when starting engine in gear with clutch depressed ? does it crunch when you go 1st, 2nd 3rd e.t.c? or does it not let u in ? what if you force it or rev the engine to 3-4k in neutral(with clutch up) and then try going for a gear? does reverse crunch every time if you do it 10times in a row at idle? clutch springs ok? clutch bearing fork ok ?
tbh it sounds like a clutch issue at first glance as a clutch not disengaged will find it very very hard to push it into a gear.
tbh it sounds like a clutch issue at first glance as a clutch not disengaged will find it very very hard to push it into a gear.
It'll crunch into reverse if you really force it. 1st is a complete no go. It doesnt crunch, just wont go in full stop. 2nd is getting like 1st gear but will slip in occasionally
I've changed to clutch fork anyway. Gonna fit a new clutch kit tomorrow.
So basically everything in the 2nd picture will have been changed + 3 gear linkage arms (parts 4 & 5 in 1st pic).
If it still isnt right then I give up!
I've changed to clutch fork anyway. Gonna fit a new clutch kit tomorrow.
So basically everything in the 2nd picture will have been changed + 3 gear linkage arms (parts 4 & 5 in 1st pic).
If it still isnt right then I give up!
You may well have 2 issues.
The reason I was concentrating on reverse is that it rules out any synchromesh issues the gearbox might have as reverse doesn't have a synchro..
Anyway, so onto a bit deeper with this " it crunches if you really force it"
You really need to be specific here and for reverse only..
If you are forcing it and it makes no noise but simply "wont go in" then it sounds more like a linkage issue.
If it goes to go in but then zings the teeth it's likely to be the clutch issues I mentioned above
The reason I was concentrating on reverse is that it rules out any synchromesh issues the gearbox might have as reverse doesn't have a synchro..
Anyway, so onto a bit deeper with this " it crunches if you really force it"
You really need to be specific here and for reverse only..
If you are forcing it and it makes no noise but simply "wont go in" then it sounds more like a linkage issue.
If it goes to go in but then zings the teeth it's likely to be the clutch issues I mentioned above
well a syncro issue would show up by it not being so hard to get into gear and a loud crunch if you change gear at a speed where the syncro would be needed. i know i have a car with a dead syncro on 2nd. crunches if you drop to second at 30mph, but not at 20, otherwise its fine.
replacing all of the clutch should probably cure it, there was wear on the spring forks ? that wear would mean the bite point would raise, making it less likely to disengage fully.
replacing all of the clutch should probably cure it, there was wear on the spring forks ? that wear would mean the bite point would raise, making it less likely to disengage fully.
Hmm looks like I worded that badly then.
What I meant was the synchros don't help you when trying to fault find whether it's a linkage engagement issue or a dragging clutch.
If the shafts are spinning in the box, the synchros stop you crunching gears yes, all well and good until you don't know whether it's that causing the issue or the fact something isn't lining up properly with the linkage, preventing you from getting it TO the gear.
Hence why I suggested specific details about using reverse.
What I meant was the synchros don't help you when trying to fault find whether it's a linkage engagement issue or a dragging clutch.
If the shafts are spinning in the box, the synchros stop you crunching gears yes, all well and good until you don't know whether it's that causing the issue or the fact something isn't lining up properly with the linkage, preventing you from getting it TO the gear.
Hence why I suggested specific details about using reverse.
A worn clutch by itself can be enough. As the clutch wears the pedal stroke required to completely release it increases quite a bit. I've had cars with dragging (but not slipping) clutches that have been completely cured with a new clutch kit.
Reverse will zing/crunch if you go to engage it normally. But will go on of you force it.
On closer inspection the fork springs (? the part the bearing presses against) are showing some wear and a side by side comparrison of the bearing shows the new one is a few mm taller.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow. So much for 'regular' failing clutch symptoms!!
On closer inspection the fork springs (? the part the bearing presses against) are showing some wear and a side by side comparrison of the bearing shows the new one is a few mm taller.
Fingers crossed for tomorrow. So much for 'regular' failing clutch symptoms!!
Just thought I'd add the conclusion to this thread. Put new clutch on and put it all back together and.... It's fixed!!
So thanks to scuba and all the other peeps who chipped in and helped.
Only downside is I managed to get a considerable sized piece of rusty metal in my eye that didn't make itself known until about an hour after I'd finished. One trip to a&e later to have to metal removed, and two further trips to eye casualty over the week to have to remaining rust removed. Not a pleasant feeling having your eyeball drilled!
So thanks to scuba and all the other peeps who chipped in and helped.
Only downside is I managed to get a considerable sized piece of rusty metal in my eye that didn't make itself known until about an hour after I'd finished. One trip to a&e later to have to metal removed, and two further trips to eye casualty over the week to have to remaining rust removed. Not a pleasant feeling having your eyeball drilled!