My Golf - Update thread

OK, looks like it's not related to engine temp at all. Went out and started it this morning from cold and it fired up first turn of the key, (in fact it starts from cold better than the old engine on k-jet). It only ran for about 20-secs before dying again, so it didn't even get a chance to get warm. I'm starting to think it's electrical now, I've ordered a new dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads, lets see if they help.
 
It hasnt got anything to do with a vac line being disconnected or connected to the wrong place has it. I know that if I pull tha vac line off the dizzy on my the engine dies?
 
frozennova said:
It hasnt got anything to do with a vac line being disconnected or connected to the wrong place has it. I know that if I pull tha vac line off the dizzy on my the engine dies?
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Nope, the vac lines are fine. There are in fact only two vac lines needed, one for the brake servo and one for the dizzy advance. I have a vac feed tapped the first intake runner, which is connected to a t-piece which in turn is connected to the brake servo and dizzy.
 
Looks in pretty good nick, there was some corrosion on the contacts but I cleaned it off, didn't make any difference. I have a new one on the way anyway.
 
Seems strange that it'd run for 20 secs or so. Is it spluttering to a stop, or just stopping straight away? Sounds like a fuel supply issue to me.
 
-westy- said:
Seems strange that it'd run for 20 secs or so. Is it spluttering to a stop, or just stopping straight away? Sounds like a fuel supply issue to me.
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Doesn't splutter or cough, it just stops dead as if the ignition has been switched off.

Jonnycoupe said:
Hows the fuel pump setup now then? Cos the carbs will obviously be wanting much lower fuel pressure.
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It's set-up like this: Stock fuel pump is in place, the stock feed and return under the bonnet are connected to a t-piece, this t-piece feeds the R1 fuel pump which in turn feeds the carbs. The R1 pump only delivers what the carbs need, it shuts off when the float bowls are full.

EDIT: Here's a pic of the fuel circuit:

FuelCircuit.jpg


Could it be that the stock pump is still forcing fuel through the R1 pump, even when off, thus flooding the float bowls?
 
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Has the R1 pump got any sort of pressure regulation? With the pump off in such a setup you may well still be delivering fuel to the pots due to the pressure differential across it being way out of the design spec.

Ie. Golf GTi rail pressure rather than fuel tank pressure.
 
Jonnycoupe said:
Has the R1 pump got any sort of pressure regulation? With the pump off in such a setup you may well still be delivering fuel to the pots due to the pressure differential across it being way out of the design spec.

Ie. Golf GTi rail pressure rather than fuel tank pressure.
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That's what I'm thinking now. I went with the R1 pump to eliminate the need to mess about with fuel pressure regulators. I think the next step will be to bypass the standard injection pump and just feed the R1 pump from the tank lift pump.
 
DreXeL said:
OK, looks like it's not related to engine temp at all. Went out and started it this morning from cold and it fired up first turn of the key, (in fact it starts from cold better than the old engine on k-jet). It only ran for about 20-secs before dying again, so it didn't even get a chance to get warm. I'm starting to think it's electrical now, I've ordered a new dizzy cap, rotor arm and HT leads, lets see if they help.
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Crankshaft Sensor?

Mine went on my MK4 and had very similar symptoms.

I'm no mechanic though just sounds like what happened to mine :P
 
Sounds like the injection pump is forcing fuel through the R1 pump then, does it start straight back up after it cuts out or are there signs of flooding. Will it start with wide open throttle or any signs of fuel on the spark plugs
 
frozennova said:
Sounds like the injection pump is forcing fuel through the R1 pump then, does it start straight back up after it cuts out or are there signs of flooding. Will it start with wide open throttle or any signs of fuel on the spark plugs
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It won't start straight back up, I have to leave it for a while before it'll start again. I have pulled the plugs to check for flooding yet, I'll do that tomorrow morning.


robnut said:
Are the fuel inlet and outlet on the correct way? had this problem on my mini.
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The carbs don't have an outlet, only an inlet. If you are referring to the fuel pump then yes, it's the right way :)
 
DreXeL said:
There isn't one. This is old school ;)
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Hahah ok.

I'm assuming I'm on the right lines with something ignition related (obviously). What does the same job as a crankshaft sensor in an "old school" car?

Fuel pump relay? again not sure if these on older models and if not will step way out of this discussion :P

All the best with it though, loving the project.
 
Potentially stupid question here, but can I simply pull the plug on the injection pump to 'bypass' it, or will I have to physically bypass it with fuel line?

Gornall said:
Hahah ok.

I'm assuming I'm on the right lines with something ignition related (obviously). What does the same job as a crankshaft sensor in an "old school" car?
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It doesn't need a crankshaft sensor, there is no ECU. My car has 'transistorised' ignition, there is a 'hall sensor' in the dizzy that counts holes in a metal ring.

Fuel pump relay? again not sure if these on older models and if not will step way out of this discussion :P
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Pump relay is fine, I know the stock pump is working as there is always fuel in the filter that is feeding the R1 pump.
 
Does the R1 pump have a return outlet? As it's T piece'd on, that may be why the standard pump is over-fuelling it, pushing it through.

If you have to leave it for a while before you can restart it, this seems to point to the floats being flooded.
 
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