Critique my proposed car audio...

breadturbo said:
tbh for a budget install i dont think he will need soundproofing, not worth it for 200wrms
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Disagree entirely. My new car is fully dynamated, same audio setup as the old one, this sounds notably better though, and it's only low end stuff. The real benefit is the reduced road noise though, means I can actually hear the thing clearly at speed without needing mega volume.
 
sigma said:
If you want to soundproof on the cheap get a few rolls of flashing tape from B&Q @ ~£7 a roll. :)
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Whilst yes this is better than using nothing.
I have used it in the past and you need 3 layers of it to do anything like the soundproofing of one layer of dynamat.
Now I dont know current prices or what products are available at present as my interest in ICE faded about 5 years ago, but i reccomend spending the money on decent quality stuff from experience.

Sound proofing is defintely worth it.
Depending on how loud your sub is, I would look at doing the roof of the car as well. In my pug 306 I did the entire car, all doors boot floor car floor, roof etc and it made a HUGE difference, as said further up the thread it is more about improving sound quality than quantity.
 
breadturbo said:
tbh for a budget install i dont think he will need soundproofing, not worth it for 200wrms
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Perfectly worth it, soundproofing works both ways in terms of minimising external noise and retaining internal punch. Also if you have a crappy car it goes a long way to germanising the feel of the car when shutting doors.

It's the first thing I do to a car, start as you mean to go on.
 
its not cheap mind dynamat, hes looking at a £200 sub/amp install, if you're wanting him to do boot, doors, floor etc thats gonna cost £200 in matting at the very least.

sure maybe stick a strip behind the speaker pods in the front but he doesnt want to go sticking the stuff everywhere, hes not running 20kw



what car is it going in?
 
i know this is gonna sound silly, but id say do the big3 aswell, being as the amp alone can draw 75amps and a yaris alternator is rated for 80amps. (dont want to flatten your battery)

big 3 means getting some 4 guage amp wire (0or1 is better but i think 4 will do for your size) and replacing the alternator to battery+, battery - to body, and engine to body with it.
 
One BIG downside to that head unit is the front USB. It needs to be removed every time the front is removed so you lose the last song you were on and it sticks out and you will be catching it every 5 minutes. A rear USB is much better as you can put the lead into the glove box hidden and always connected.

I have not used a CD since having the USB connected.
 
breadturbo said:
i know this is gonna sound silly, but id say do the big3 aswell, being as the amp alone can draw 75amps and a yaris alternator is rated for 80amps. (dont want to flatten your battery)

big 3 means getting some 4 guage amp wire (0or1 is better but i think 4 will do for your size) and replacing the alternator to battery+, battery - to body, and engine to body with it.
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Is doing that going to increase the capability of the alternator then? I'll bet that amp will never pull anything like 75A anyway.
 
it wont increase its capability none no, but as im guessing the yaris has a weeny battery it will help if he gets lights dimming etc, we all know voltage drop kills amps :P
 
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