Civic Type R's (EP3's), trying to find out about them

lol Ad :) I don't know mate, I aren't a tarmac warrior, I won't be doing breakneck speed around corners. From a bit of a read I will probably aim for a 20-30mm drop on some Tein S-Tech or Eibach springs and fast road geo setup, nothing too posh or fancy, just so the back end is a bit more planted, but where I live the roads are quite rough so I aint going to get polybushes or anything like that, if anything just a refresh with OEM bushes.

I'm sorry but I would like the noise so there ya go, I can't seem to grow up on that score :D
 
I went for the fast road setup that ABP offer (Stormster I think this would be very close for you as they are just up the M6).

I wouldn't lower it personally, its "just" about right for the road bumps around here. Go with a stiffer ARB at the rear / fast road set up and if the shocks aren't tired you will still make a lot of cars look silly in the corners on track.

Just point of note re: fast road setups, if you intend to lower get the rear camber arms not bolts as they won't have enough adjustment the bolts for a 30mm drop.

I've used ABP for my s14's drift setup and although they have their own settings for tow camber etc please note these are conservative in order to keep tyre life sensible. You could wack a lot more negative camber on the front for example. I just went with the FSR to be honest as I do a track day once every 2-3 months, the main thing is that you'll find all your geometry it pointing in different direction and just getting things aligned makes a big difference to the drive of the car.

Tim is spot on re: brakes only thing I've done is change the front pads on mine for DS2500's so they don't die after three laps. The standard brakes are tough and if you warm them up properly you won't warp or damage them. Plus they are cheap to replace if you need to. I also put braided steel lines on mine and removed the shims to get rid of any slack in the system but thats all.

Magnex as mentioned are a bit pants, just get a 2.5 inch mid pipe if you must and keep the standard rear box. I can link you if needs be to a guy who makes them on the CTR forum.

If noise is the order of business go have a listen to a few on youtube. DC sports, Spoon, HKS hi power and custom jobs seem to be what people go for. Too rich for me though :) ABP do a cracking piper exhaust but the looks are marmite.

I went for a mongoose rear box and a custom mid pipe with extra silencing, simply because I needed to keep the DB's down for noise regs. Mongoose is also pants but I didn't get it for the looks or sound I just know they last well enough (10 years on my s14), are functional and dirt cheap.

Just remember 2.5" for an NA engine and then if you strap forced induction to her go for a 3" pipe.
 
ABP do seem to have a good rep these days. They're only about 30 mins away from me so thats handy, that and Tegiwa being 15 mins away, I'm in a good place for Honda love haha.

A bit of the lowerage want would be for looks to be honest, they look loads better down a bit, I've always had lowered cars, I hate arch gap.

I will have to look into the exhausts a bit more when the time comes once/if I have the car. I will get younstubing again, most are naff phone videos it seems! Toda stuff seems to sound nice, I definitely dont want a raspy horrible sounding exhaust. A nice deep one but with a hard edge to it is what I want really. Can I ask why Magnex and Mongoose are deemed as not that good for the CTR? In terms of power I assume compared to the out and out expensive jap stuff?

I have read a bit about the standard geometry being miles out, think one of the first things I'd do is get that checked/re-done regardless.

Which brings me finally on to this, I have to say it is a bit offputting with how many posts there are, over time I guess but with no correlation to age/milage etc.

http://www.civictype-r.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=4636

The poll results do worry me! When these guys say they pull, are we talking veering off line a bit or PULLING though, it's not so clear...

Tramlining, I expect this from the CTR with it being stiffer and far sportier than the Golf I have now which just cuts through rough roads quite well... follows the road well really. But just how severe is the tramlining? I know it's no comparison but I had a Corsa Sport once upon a time lowered a bit, 195/45's on 15's and it was a bit hairy on rougher B roads.

Cheers :)
 
lenagh said:
Criticisms, power steering is pants driving "feel" isn't there and thats a common complaint. Engine mounts are pants and to soft giving a delay in pick up as the slop in the drive train is taken up. Easily sorted though with 30 quids worth of poly bushes. The JDM version was stiffer than the EUDM with thicker rear arb's. EU roads meant they went for comfort over stiffness.

Other than that a great all rounder :) I was used to straight line power in the 200. With the Ep3 you have to work hard for your keep, mainly by being brave into and out of corners which is where this thing is at its best. Its nice and light and the standard brakes are more than up to the job of a track day.

Vid from first track day I took her on http://www.facebook.com/v/451134248574

Total damage, 1 litre of oil and some copper grease for the brakes.

38806_409754013574_537938574_4715199_6612875_n.jpg
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In your video, on some gearchanges it seems to drop out of VTEC, is this due to the gear ratios or are you just shifting up too soon?

Does the EP3 have an oil temperature gauge fitted as standard?

You have/had a nice 200sx!
 
Berger said:
In your video, on some gearchanges it seems to drop out of VTEC, is this due to the gear ratios or are you just shifting up too soon?

Does the EP3 have an oil temperature gauge fitted as standard?

You have/had a nice 200sx!
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IIRC the standard vtec changeover point (~6krpm) is about 10pm on the ref dial, so he's not really dropping out of it, it's just the sound of lifting off the throttle a bit then planting back I think.

There's no oil temp gauge, only water. The VTEC will not engage if the ECU thinks the oil is too cold, but that's not the best method to find out ;)
 
Dup said:
IIRC the standard vtec changeover point (~6krpm) is about 10pm on the ref dial, so he's not really dropping out of it, it's just the sound of lifting off the throttle a bit then planting back I think.

There's no oil temp gauge, only water. The VTEC will not engage if the ECU thinks the oil is too cold, but that's not the best method to find out ;)
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There were a few bits where I could hear an induction note change so thought it was then.

More worried about the oil being too hot rather than too cold!

I know the DC2's don't have a temperature gauge/decent oil cooler as standard.

Worries me a little that they don't given their "road racer" billing!
 
My 2p.

Never had a problem with my old CTR. Owned it from new for just under 2 years, sold due to Baby arriving, general calming down of attitude :) Car was Hondata Remapped, AEM V1 Intake and decatted. RR'ed at 218bhp, on the same rollers it posted 198bhp iirc pre-mods, so take the relative values and there was a very nice gain at the top end of the rev range, more so (off memory) around the 4500rpm mark after Hondata'ing. Hondata removed the *very* noticeable vtec changeover sound the AEM made, it was still present though. Tramlining, yes, it did a little, but then a lot of that is down to local roads being repaired in strips.

Really great little car. Current owner has gone mad with spoon exhaust parts and other nice bits, kinda weird that im glad to see it's been modified in an appropriate way. It held up to quite a few trackdays too with no major issues. Lift off oversteer on trackdays was ever present, it got to the point where I purposefully used to yank the steering wheel into a corner just to muck about and enjoy myself if there weren't any other cars in proximity.

Negatives? I find it hard to critisize the car considering it's role/purpose/market. Interior was well built but a bit spartan, Type-R thing so make of that what you will. Steering rack would grumble when stationary. Expansion joints on motorways would loosen your fillings, generally hard suspension all round. There didnt seem to be much rear damping travel on iffy roads. The whole "lack of torque" thing or "cant climb up steep hills" gets boring after a while. It has a fantastic gearbox to get around that :)

ps - You can fit a rather large drumkit or 2 speaker PA system + mixer when you fold the rear seats down. Breadvan? Yes, but in a good way if required :)

Edit - Was a 2004 Facelift.
 
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I'm looking for a CTR now myself, I'd prefer a facelift as they don't look as gimped as the pre-facelift but at the end of the day I'll be out hooning it not looking at it.

Prices seem to be all over, just been to see this one but it had some advisories on the MOT for worn front suspension. Cosmetically it's immaculate all over, and it looks like it was just taken back to honda for everything including tyres.

They offered 3k for my Mondeo ST which is, well, crap, but am I onto a winner? I'd push for more on my PX mondeo and offer them £500 for the swap. Unfortuantly going private is an issue as my current insurers don't do young folk on Hondas so selling privatly will take ages (NCB etc)and tbh I'd rather take a hit and start enjoying Honda ownership.
 
Muffin` said:
I'm looking for a CTR now myself, I'd prefer a facelift as they don't look as gimped as the pre-facelift but at the end of the day I'll be out hooning it not looking at it.

Prices seem to be all over, just been to see this one but it had some advisories on the MOT for worn front suspension. Cosmetically it's immaculate all over, and it looks like it was just taken back to honda for everything including tyres.

They offered 3k for my Mondeo ST which is, well, crap, but am I onto a winner? I'd push for more on my PX mondeo and offer them £500 for the swap. Unfortuantly going private is an issue as my current insurers don't do young folk on Hondas so selling privatly will take ages (NCB etc)and tbh I'd rather take a hit and start enjoying Honda ownership.
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wow factory satnav:cool: that was an expensive extra! I thought you'd prefer a facelift though?
 
Berger said:
In your video, on some gearchanges it seems to drop out of VTEC, is this due to the gear ratios or are you just shifting up too soon?

Does the EP3 have an oil temperature gauge fitted as standard?

You have/had a nice 200sx!
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No oil temp unfortunately I used to run oil temp, water temp, oil pressure and boost / knock on the 200. Vtec is 5800rpm and I do drop out of VTEC on a couple of bends there. Was the first time out in her and there is still loads to learn compared to drifting the 200, the gearing is errr different and grip driving is a different world hehe.
 
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Stormster said:
Tramlining, I expect this from the CTR with it being stiffer and far sportier than the Golf I have now which just cuts through rough roads quite well... follows the road well really. But just how severe is the tramlining? I know it's no comparison but I had a Corsa Sport once upon a time lowered a bit, 195/45's on 15's and it was a bit hairy on rougher B roads.

Cheers :)
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She tramlines, but no where near as bad as the s14 running stretched 235's on a 10J hehe. Drive one decide for yourself is the best bet. DO NOT buy one of these without driving it first :) that's the whole point of these things after all.
 
Muffin` said:
I'm looking for a CTR now myself, I'd prefer a facelift as they don't look as gimped as the pre-facelift but at the end of the day I'll be out hooning it not looking at it.

Prices seem to be all over, just been to see this one but it had some advisories on the MOT for worn front suspension. Cosmetically it's immaculate all over, and it looks like it was just taken back to honda for everything including tyres.

They offered 3k for my Mondeo ST which is, well, crap, but am I onto a winner? I'd push for more on my PX mondeo and offer them £500 for the swap. Unfortuantly going private is an issue as my current insurers don't do young folk on Hondas so selling privatly will take ages (NCB etc)and tbh I'd rather take a hit and start enjoying Honda ownership.
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Overpriced matey, honestly go look in the CTRO's for sale section you'll find something cheaper, younger and without the advisory's.
 
lenagh said:
Overpriced matey, honestly go look in the CTRO's for sale section you'll find something cheaper, younger and without the advisory's.
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Thanks, that settles my mind, just waiting on the activation on CTRO, and looking on Type-R owners.


fonzee said:
get on the forums.

whats wrong with the mondy?
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4.5k redline :(

Got a new job which means I don't have to do stupid miles, so I can get something more 'brap'

I tried some quotes on DC5's but they told me to FOAD, I told them I hoped everyone of thier policy holders has a whippy claim against them
 
Dup said:
IIRC the standard vtec changeover point (~6krpm) is about 10pm on the ref dial, so he's not really dropping out of it, it's just the sound of lifting off the throttle a bit then planting back I think.

There's no oil temp gauge, only water. The VTEC will not engage if the ECU thinks the oil is too cold, but that's not the best method to find out ;)
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:confused:

he drops out of vtec at least 3 times in that vid.
 
Cheers for the write up Witor, thanks :)

Muffin yeah that does look a bit overpriced, for 5k I'd want a 2004 car on about 70-80k I think... I will spend some time studying prices this weekend, need to find the time to find some localish to me and go for a drive too!

I think the only way I can find out more about the steering pull (if any) and tramlining is to drive a few really as advised, shame as if I go to see one and it looks/seems awesome I will be wary for some reason now.

I am hard to please :D
 
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