So she didnt see my car!?

Thanks all once again,

I will raise the question about the rear quarter, however, the estimator for Polar said that the bumper is a different shade to the car, if they were to spray the bumper and nothing but the bumper he reckons that you would see a blatant color change, as its plastic to metal, he said the boot would be ok as there is the curve in the body to break up the color change, but the quarter panel is butt up flush.

Not sure if this is entirely the case?

As for my insurance... it is MY car that I paid for out of MY money, do you honestly think i would cut any corners with my insurance?

I have Fully comp with business cover for the whole of Europe, my insurance is correct.
 
SB118 said:
O RLY? :p;)
Click to expand...

Ah, I'd forgotten about you. Statement retracted :p

tommytinkle said:
You use your own cars for work? What does your insurance certificate state about the use of your car?
Click to expand...

tommytinkle said:
Hardly Fox,

I'd have thought that if he was using his car without the correct insurance for the purpose he claims he has to use the car for - his insurance is null and void.
Click to expand...

It's not relevant, because it's being sorted by the woman's insurance, not the OP's.

If I'm our riding my bicycle and you swerve into me and crush my bike, your insurance will pay out. My bicycle does not need to be insured for this to happen. Same applies for anything.
 
mast3r said:
Thanks all once again,

I will raise the question about the rear quarter, however, the estimator for Polar said that the bumper is a different shade to the car, if they were to spray the bumper and nothing but the bumper he reckons that you would see a blatant color change, as its plastic to metal, he said the boot would be ok as there is the curve in the body to break up the color change, but the quarter panel is butt up flush.

Not sure if this is entirely the case?

As for my insurance... it is MY car that I paid for out of MY money, do you honestly think i would cut any corners with my insurance?

I have Fully comp with business cover for the whole of Europe, my insurance is correct.
Click to expand...

i would not want a panel with no damage sprayed just to match a flipping bumper. you tell them to get the shade of paint on the bumper correct! id be demanding they do tests first on a scrap bit of bumper and check its a match after they have dried it. that colour probably comes already mixed and not mixed on site like some bodyshops do.
 
zipp0r said:
i would not want a panel with no damage sprayed just to match a flipping bumper. you tell them to get the shade of paint on the bumper correct! id be demanding they do tests first on a scrap bit of bumper and check its a match after they have dried it. that colour probably comes already mixed and not mixed on site like some bodyshops do.
Click to expand...

furthermore, any decent bodyshop wouldn't be making excuses about colour tones not being able to match, they would do their utmost to get a close to perfect match.

Im not sure what the problem is in the first place. Its Ford Electric orange, and you buy it in a tin from ford do you not?
 
£250 for the paint material costs is entirely reasonable.

The ebay link that was posted is no good. What you must realise is that 2k basecoats are illegal for bodyshops to spray now. Basecoats must be waterbase to comply with EU law. Unfortunately waterbase stuff is twice the cost of the old solvent base. It also does not need to be thinned down so much. So you need more!

The Ford dealer will be using an oem approved paint manufacturer, someone like Glasurit I imagine. When the car comes in the swatches will come out, they will use the cars paint code, find that in the swatches, then there will be maybe 10 variations of that code. The variations will usually correspond to paint batch dates at the factory etc. OR they may be simple lighter/darker/tone variations. Whatever is the best match will be used - they will not adjust the paint by hand, it's way too difficult and takes too much time.

It makes no difference if the paint is mixed on site or elsewhere - the match will never be 100% It is impossible. Colour matching can be affected drastically by the way it is sprayed. Applied with too much pressure from the gun? Then the flakes lie too flat on the surface and you get different sheen on the new paint. This is why 100% ok undamaged panels have to be blended - so the eye can't distinguish the change in the new paint!


Let's cost it up roughly using Glasurit as I have an account with them.

Primer (rear bumper) inc hardener & thinner approx = £55

Groundcoat (usually a silverish for a pearlesent cost) in waterbase 1lt = £80
Basecoat, waterbase 1lt = £80
Reducer (fancy thinners, but it's a bit more than water!) approx 1lt = £40

Lacquer, inc hardener & thinner, approx 650ml @ £30
Blending thinner/reducer = £10

Total = £295


Obviously they will have a lot of the thinners/reducers already in the shop, but it will be worked out how much is required to do the job. The price's I have put for the primer are prorata on the costs of a 5 litre tin. I'll give you the costs as an example:

Glasurit 285-51 Grey Primer Filler 5lt = £290
Glasurit 929-53 Hardener 2lt = £100
Glasurit 352-91 Reducer 2lt = £50


Enough costing though! I would be seriously agitated if I was the OP.
 
Dublove said:
£250 for the paint material costs is entirely reasonable.

The ebay link that was posted is no good. What you must realise is that 2k basecoats are illegal for bodyshops to spray now. Basecoats must be waterbase to comply with EU law. Unfortunately waterbase stuff is twice the cost of the old solvent base. It also does not need to be thinned down so much. So you need more!

The Ford dealer will be using an oem approved paint manufacturer, someone like Glasurit I imagine. When the car comes in the swatches will come out, they will use the cars paint code, find that in the swatches, then there will be maybe 10 variations of that code. The variations will usually correspond to paint batch dates at the factory etc. OR they may be simple lighter/darker/tone variations. Whatever is the best match will be used - they will not adjust the paint by hand, it's way too difficult and takes too much time.

It makes no difference if the paint is mixed on site or elsewhere - the match will never be 100% It is impossible. Colour matching can be affected drastically by the way it is sprayed. Applied with too much pressure from the gun? Then the flakes lie too flat on the surface and you get different sheen on the new paint. This is why 100% ok undamaged panels have to be blended - so the eye can't distinguish the change in the new paint!


Let's cost it up roughly using Glasurit as I have an account with them.

Primer (rear bumper) inc hardener & thinner approx = £55

Groundcoat (usually a silverish for a pearlesent cost) in waterbase 1lt = £80
Basecoat, waterbase 1lt = £80
Reducer (fancy thinners, but it's a bit more than water!) approx 1lt = £40

Lacquer, inc hardener & thinner, approx 650ml @ £30
Blending thinner/reducer = £10

Total = £295


Obviously they will have a lot of the thinners/reducers already in the shop, but it will be worked out how much is required to do the job. The price's I have put for the primer are prorata on the costs of a 5 litre tin. I'll give you the costs as an example:

Glasurit 285-51 Grey Primer Filler 5lt = £290
Glasurit 929-53 Hardener 2lt = £100
Glasurit 352-91 Reducer 2lt = £50


Enough costing though! I would be seriously agitated if I was the OP.
Click to expand...

This man speaketh sense, listen to him. If it's a Ford dealership, it's likely to PPG wet goods though.

I wouldn't touch anyone offering to do that job in a 3 stage pearl for £120 with a ten foot barge pole, they are likely to either be "borrowing" materials from work or have no idea what they are looking at.

Huge price rises on paint have occurred recently which doesn't help, nor does the current major shortage for zoralics due to the Japanese power plant disaster meaning supply is low and cost is on the increase.

I know the painters at my local Ford bodyshops dread both the Electric Orange and the Ultimate Green because both are a nightmare to match.

Regarding why you will never get a good match, paint reacts differently depending on the substrate to which you apply it and so painted plastic bumpers will almost never exactly match any metalwork, the painters just have to use a skilled eye and daylight in order to get it as close as they possibly can and blend where possible.
 
Last edited:
Brookert said:
Its Ford Electric orange, and you buy it in a tin from ford do you not?
Click to expand...

lol if only painting pearlescent paint was that easy ! I've seen it done on the TV etc.. and it looks ridiculously hard. Look up a post at what dublove has to say. That'll tell you how complex it is.
 
£760 to paint a bumper??!?!?!

My other half recently scraped her TT reversing out the drive and I got it painted for £300 incl VAT from JCT600 Audi!

That included front wheel arch panel, door and blended into front bumper, side skirt and rear quarter. Car is IBIS white.

Ford must use scientists to do they paint work.....
 
The £750 price is entirely reasonable, as Dublove has shown the paint costs to be completely true.

Nothing is cheap these days.
 
I've recently had front and back bumpers (dealer-made mess, long story) on my yellow car sprayed and they offered to blend as well. I said no in the end because I didn't want any future fade to become an issue and the job came out fine. There's a really small difference but nothing I'm too worried about, I feel it's unlikely to get much closer. I was told, although I suspect it was bs to calm me incase of non-match, that Yellow & Red are usually the hardest to match. If true, I guess you have a super tough match :)

You did the right thing going to ford though, if you want anyone to repair it you at least want people with the most experience with this matching.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom