Proposed Watercooling Setup

blky

blky

blky

Associate
Joined
3 Jul 2011
Posts
539
Location
Birmingham
Hey everyone!! Just joined the forums recently, and will be finally setting up a whole new pc (its been about 3 years)!!

I was wondering if you could please take a look at the watercooling aspect of my build and inform me if there is anything that i am missing, or anything that ive just messed up on.

Im also looking at getting this gear within the next month or so, and will be posting lots of pics later :D

Thankyou!!





edit: updated image
 
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Hi mate and welcome,

I know nothing about watercooling but i would remove they "Retailers" from the list as its competitors and they cannot be linked to on this website.

:)
 
So long as they are this model D1225C12BBAP-31 they have a 3 pin rpm wire as well.

"This model comes with a 4-Pin power connector with a 3-Pin RPM line. A 3-Pin connector fan connector is optional below for use with fan controllers ect. Check the specifications for the device you will be using these on to ensure they can handle the high Amp draw"

Model Number: D1225C12BBAP-31
Fan Speed: 5400 RPM
Noise: 50.5dBA
Airflow: 150.1 CFM
Rated Voltage: DC12V
Rated Current: 1.14A
Dimensions: 120x120x25mm
Connectors: 4-Pin w/ RPM line
Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearings
 
JeffyB said:
So long as they are this model D1225C12BBAP-31 they have a 3 pin rpm wire as well.

"This model comes with a 4-Pin power connector with a 3-Pin RPM line. A 3-Pin connector fan connector is optional below for use with fan controllers ect. Check the specifications for the device you will be using these on to ensure they can handle the high Amp draw"

Model Number: D1225C12BBAP-31
Fan Speed: 5400 RPM
Noise: 50.5dBA
Airflow: 150.1 CFM
Rated Voltage: DC12V
Rated Current: 1.14A
Dimensions: 120x120x25mm
Connectors: 4-Pin w/ RPM line
Bearing Type: Double Ball Bearings
Click to expand...

Oh, that's good, I thought it was for reporting the rpm (not massively useful with a way to control it I guess).
If you're powering via molex why does it matter about the high amp draw? Or would you not use the molex at all?
 
good to hear jeffyb! i do have a fan controller which is on the excel for my pc build. About the model no of the fans listed they are the D1225C12B7AP-31 so i guess its without the fan connector. Maybe the ones with the connector are double the price...hmm! I always thought that a controller like "Scythe Kaze Master Ace 5.25inch Fan Controller - Black" would be able to control it with just a molex connection?
 
looks good but I would sub out the coolance gfx block for an EK one. Reason - you can get the nickel acetal (top one) for £112, or the nickel plexi for £108.
 
blky said:
good to hear jeffyb! i do have a fan controller which is on the excel for my pc build. About the model no of the fans listed they are the D1225C12B7AP-31 so i guess its without the fan connector. Maybe the ones with the connector are double the price...hmm! I always thought that a controller like "Scythe Kaze Master Ace 5.25inch Fan Controller - Black" would be able to control it with just a molex connection?
Click to expand...

I believe the Scythe Kaze Master Ace may struggle with those fans as they're only rated at 1A per channel and those fans look to need 1.14A. Plus their starting current is 2.69A!!!
 
lollyhayes said:
looks good but I would sub out the coolance gfx block for an EK one. Reason - you can get the nickel acetal (top one) for £112, or the nickel plexi for £108.
Click to expand...

Done & Done! thankyou, i take it that the EK would be a better block with the full nickel acetal?

GoogalyMoogaly said:
I believe the Scythe Kaze Master Ace may struggle with those fans as they're only rated at 1A per channel and those fans look to need 1.14A. Plus their starting current is 2.69A!!!
Click to expand...

i just saw that too, and it seems you are definitely right, cheers for picking that up to the rest of you as well! I also had a listen to those fans on a youtube video, and MY GOD they are insane haha, i think i may just sub them out for the 3000rpm without the controller, that way i can just keep them running and save myself the trouble of controlling.

Cleeecooo said:
you can get a res with a top on it so the res sits on the pump. That'll save you a bit
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im not too sure what a "top" is ? but ill have a look and see if i can find what your talking about, i take it instead of running fittings and pipe between them i can just do some sort of straight connection?
 
The Res comment may be with looking into. I'm not sure how you would.configure the multires in your pic to feed into the top and out the bottom. However the xspc ddc Res top would be perfect. If you are interested I am just about to put a brand new one on mm which ended up not fitting my build
 
ArchAnGeL said:
The Res comment may be with looking into. I'm not sure how you would.configure the multires in your pic to feed into the top and out the bottom. However the xspc ddc Res top would be perfect. If you are interested I am just about to put a brand new one on mm which ended up not fitting my build
Click to expand...

sorry thats just poor diagraming on my behalf, only fed it up the top on the diagram just to make it look nicer for everyone to see
 
blky said:
wow even the 3000 ones? well that certainly aint fun then, any suggestions?
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You could try the older Gentle Typhoons, for example the 1850rpm ones. For a start they should be easier to connect to a fan controller and they don't draw nearly as much current (I'd guess you could get 2 or 3 on a single channel on the Scythe). Plus they're pretty quiet and I think they also have good static pressure which I believe may be useful on a stealth rad.

 
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