Failed Turbocharger 3 months after fitting, what are my rights?

If you can't see the inherent issues with it then I am not here to go through it all as I have to go to the gym.
Long and short of it is that you are going to try and pressurise parts of the system and it's associated pipework that are not designed to take pressure above atmospheric.
Ruptured and blown off hoses will be your first failure..
 
Well plenty of people manage it without destroying their intake pipework, so I don't think it's really that great a concern, it's not like you really need to go mental with the pressure to find a leak
 
Well if they've admitted the turbo failed due to a pipe they installed failing i can't see a small claims case being that difficult.

Might be a problem if you've fixed it without an inspection by a 3rd party though (admittedly sending the turbo off to garrett again would be a bit of a waste), but having to fix things yourself when the responsible party refuse to do so must be fairly normal stuff for the judges to deal with in small claims.
 
Scubascorpion said:
If you can't see the inherent issues with it then I am not here to go through it all as I have to go to the gym.
Long and short of it is that you are going to try and pressurise parts of the system and it's associated pipework that are not designed to take pressure above atmospheric.
Ruptured and blown off hoses will be your first failure..
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It's not done by dumping the full capacity of a diving tank into the system at once, but at pressures around or below normal running pressure.

Now push off to the gym and burn off some alphaness ;)
 
If you are not going to pressurise it to actual road boost pressure, it makes your test pointless. Anyway, ****** to this, off down my mates. :p
 
I don't see you're going to start rupturing hoses by pressurising the few bits between the airbox and the turbo, even at general road boost pressures, unless you're running something with silly levels of boost but in a case like that, you'd probably not be doing a DIY leak test anyway, you'd be doing it 'properly' at more expense.
 
I'm still trying to work out how a boost LEAK added more pressure and ended up overspeeding the turbo, surely you would get a loss of power?
 
SB118 said:
I'm still trying to work out how a boost LEAK added more pressure and ended up overspeeding the turbo, surely you would get a loss of power?
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If they used the normal 1.8T setup to run the wastegate it works on request and actual boost levels to adjust the wastegate.

If the ECU asks for say 1 bar of boost it willl close the wastegate until it gets it at the intake. With a boost leak the system will request 1 bar of boost and then close the wastegate until it gets 1 bar of boost if the boost leak is big enough it will never reach 1 bar and the wastegate will be fully closed causing the turbo to eventually die, this is how some stock turbos fail with boost leaks that are left. It doesn't help that a lot of remaps disable the warning/limp mode when the difference between requested and actual is big.
 
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Just to clarify the only engine work / modifications undertaken were done by them, nothing else had been touched or modified by me bar general servicing before the incident. None of the engine parts had been touched or modified or even serviced after the incident.

Ive just had to fix it for obvious reasons. Didn't think you could boost leak test with a broken turbo and didn't wnat to completely knacker the engine if it was alright to save still.

Therefore had to put another turbo on it to do any kind of testing
 
I see lots of you talking about warming up the turbo charger, and a few other things?

I have a supercharged SLK - should I be following these guidelines? What exactly should I be doing?

I generally try to keep the revs below 3000 until the engine is at optimum temp.
 
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CaptainRAVE said:
I see lots of you talking about warming up the turbo charger, and a few other things?

I have a supercharged SLK - should I be following these guidelines? What exactly should I be doing?

I generally try to keep the revs below 3000 until the engine is at optimum temp.
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I have never owned a supercharged car but yes I would assume you would use the same basics as with any other forced induction / n/a car to let it warm up before revving too high
 
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