I agree with that but some of the other modes will be extremely useful for what phil wants to actually use the camera for. S mode with direct control over the shutter speed will probably be best for the airshow as the amount of light going into the lens will vary massively depending on where you point the camera in relation to the suns position, especially when your trying to take a photo of a flying plane. You need a fast shutter speed to get a decent plane picture in motion anyway so that setting would make more sense than going full manual and probably coming home with hundreds of useless photos.
Is there a 'generic' setting using dslr's (for novices)?
- Thread starter philstanbridge
- Start date
I agree with that but some of the other modes will be extremely useful for what phil wants to actually use the camera for. S mode with direct control over the shutter speed will probably be best for the airshow as the amount of light going into the lens will vary massively depending on where you point the camera in relation to the suns position, especially when your trying to take a photo of a flying plane. You need a fast shutter speed to get a decent plane picture in motion anyway so that setting would make more sense than going full manual and probably coming home with hundreds of useless photos.
Some cameras can be set up to adjust ISO and aperture to achieve a minimum shutter speed which is perfect for planes in flight. Aperture and shutter priority only adjust the other (aperture priority adjusts shutter speed and vice versa), ISO is something that usually doesn't get automatically adjusted but being the third part of exposure it can sometimes greatly help, the only issue being the amount of noise you may end up with.
Swings and roundabouts!
Swings and roundabouts!
AV for me 99% of the time, and then adjusting aperture and ISO to tune to the shutter speed I want / need.
The other thing to point out to the OP is the consequence of shooting in RAW - the images will almost certainly benefit from refining the colours and sharpness afterwards. Raw is raw - no processing done on the camera at all.
The other thing to point out to the OP is the consequence of shooting in RAW - the images will almost certainly benefit from refining the colours and sharpness afterwards. Raw is raw - no processing done on the camera at all.
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Thanks for the cotinued replies I really appreciate it. Certainly food for thought. I do tend to produce all my photos in RAW now, as I can see the benefits, although I am struggling to find an application that deals with the post-processing. At the mo I'm using the ViewNX that ships with the camera, which seems okay. I downloaded a trial of Photoshop, and that was really really powerful, loved it. Perhaps I need a comprimise somewhere in the middle. Plus PS is very expensive, even if I can get it on a student discount. I've tried Gimp and wasn't too keen on that, didn't seem that fluid to me, and felt slow.
Soldato
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I prefer lightwave and use something else for cropping etc. Though if you spend time when taking the pic then post work can be minimized.
well i personally use adobe Photoshop Cs5 which does everything graphic but for those who wish for a good solid program but can't afford it, adobe offer alternate programs that are much cheaper but just as good in the form of adobe photoshop elements a cut down version of photoshop has the some of same general thing of cs5 but not as refined and then their adobe lightroom which is a dedicated program design sole for Photographers has same photo ablies of photoshop cs5 but have maded more user friendly and easier to learn than cs5 plus more steam line so doing batch raw shot is simply task to do. if i had to choose which one it would be a toss up between photoshop cs5 and lightroom.
Man of Honour
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I'd definitely go with Lightroom 3, it does 98% of all the post processing I do!
you can use the software that comes with the camera but they usually very limited in what they can do. a lot of shops that sell camera usually won't tell you that the software that bundle with camera is limited it what it can do nor will they suggest you to buy another software. if you lucky you get sale person who do advise you right telling you that bundle software ok for on fly or quick processing with no extra editting but will recommend you getting a better software to edit your photo like lightroom or photoshop. also a lot of the photo mags are gear towards photoshop elements, photoshop cs5 and lightroom so their how to guides instruction are written and images are for those programs.
For some terrific free programs that even a student can afford ( I.E. they're free ! )...read on
If you shoot RAW files ( which i doubt ) then go download FastStone RAW viewer/editor and Photofiltre for much better editing. FastStone is a brill proggy for downloading files from your Cam, whether RAW or .JPG. But the editing section is weak, hence the Photofiltre recommendation for in depth editing
If you shoot only .JPGs, then you really just need a .JPG editor, which Photofiltre will handle nicely, but FastStone is still the best way/quickest/easiest way i know of downloading your pix onto the PC. It automatically dates the folders and puts files in the right folders.
Say you shot a load of photos over 4 days before downloading, they will al be shuffled neatly into dated folders, even across different months, if thats what you did.
But still grab Photofiltre for the editing.
Despite the fact that I use the expensive Adobe CS4 Extended with ACR 5.7 Raw Editor, ( I only ever shoot RAW files ) I use FastStone exclusively for downloadiing photos to the PC, then CS4/ACR to process.
If i want to do some quick editing, i have a copy of Photofiltre, as its still an invaluable tool. It can do a lot more than quick editing too, its just that I shoot RAW and need the in depth actions of Adobe. If i shot .JPG only, i would only use Photofiltre, as its perfect for that purpose
If you shoot RAW files ( which i doubt ) then go download FastStone RAW viewer/editor and Photofiltre for much better editing. FastStone is a brill proggy for downloading files from your Cam, whether RAW or .JPG. But the editing section is weak, hence the Photofiltre recommendation for in depth editing
If you shoot only .JPGs, then you really just need a .JPG editor, which Photofiltre will handle nicely, but FastStone is still the best way/quickest/easiest way i know of downloading your pix onto the PC. It automatically dates the folders and puts files in the right folders.
Say you shot a load of photos over 4 days before downloading, they will al be shuffled neatly into dated folders, even across different months, if thats what you did.
But still grab Photofiltre for the editing.
Despite the fact that I use the expensive Adobe CS4 Extended with ACR 5.7 Raw Editor, ( I only ever shoot RAW files ) I use FastStone exclusively for downloadiing photos to the PC, then CS4/ACR to process.
If i want to do some quick editing, i have a copy of Photofiltre, as its still an invaluable tool. It can do a lot more than quick editing too, its just that I shoot RAW and need the in depth actions of Adobe. If i shot .JPG only, i would only use Photofiltre, as its perfect for that purpose
Ive followed this thread the past few days and learnt a few things. I also found the following site helpful as well.
http://www.dslrtips.com/workshops/DSLR_workshops_tutorials_tips.shtml
http://www.dslrtips.com/workshops/DSLR_workshops_tutorials_tips.shtml
Soldato
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I'm a complete novice and this is how I approach things.
1) Read the manual and then read it again, sounds silly but you will learn where everything and what it does. It saves time while out on the field a novice shouldn't just jump in.
2) Some may agree some may not but for me manual mode is the way to go. You may miss shots and they may not be perfect but you will learn what each setting does as you change them. It will give you a far better understanding than letting the camera do the work.
3) Think about the subjects your going to shoot as this will prioritise which setting is most important to you.
Do you want to separate the item you're shooting from the background? If so the aperture setting is priority, set this first and then adjust your shutter speed, iso settings.
Is the object moving like car racing, waterfall etc...? Then set the shutter speed to your desired setting first and then adjust the aperture and iso settings to reach a good composure.
At the beginning you will need to think about each shot, think about what you're after and think about what will happen if I change the settings. In time this will become natural and second nature.
My only other hint would be to not go above 400 iso if possible so you don't get too much noise on the image.
Personally I wouldnt be too worried about pp either while learning. Learn to take a good photo from day one that needs only the slightest of pp instead of taking a bad one and needing to over do pp. Imo too may people rely on it to mask a bad shot. Granted it is needed but as a novice like myself I'd concentrate on the shot.
Some may say what I wrote is rubbish but it's from my experiences and how I'm approaching things.
1) Read the manual and then read it again, sounds silly but you will learn where everything and what it does. It saves time while out on the field a novice shouldn't just jump in.
2) Some may agree some may not but for me manual mode is the way to go. You may miss shots and they may not be perfect but you will learn what each setting does as you change them. It will give you a far better understanding than letting the camera do the work.
3) Think about the subjects your going to shoot as this will prioritise which setting is most important to you.
Do you want to separate the item you're shooting from the background? If so the aperture setting is priority, set this first and then adjust your shutter speed, iso settings.
Is the object moving like car racing, waterfall etc...? Then set the shutter speed to your desired setting first and then adjust the aperture and iso settings to reach a good composure.
At the beginning you will need to think about each shot, think about what you're after and think about what will happen if I change the settings. In time this will become natural and second nature.
My only other hint would be to not go above 400 iso if possible so you don't get too much noise on the image.
Personally I wouldnt be too worried about pp either while learning. Learn to take a good photo from day one that needs only the slightest of pp instead of taking a bad one and needing to over do pp. Imo too may people rely on it to mask a bad shot. Granted it is needed but as a novice like myself I'd concentrate on the shot.
Some may say what I wrote is rubbish but it's from my experiences and how I'm approaching things.
Soldato
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Start off on AV.
These shooting modes are only different in the manner of determinaning a semi automatic route to exposure and depth of field.
Anything to do with a more punchy image is done to the camera in house processing which pretty much all compacts do with no alternative.
Digital slr allows you to capture raw data and bypass the cameras generic processing so you can apply your own (i.e. photoshop or lightroom etc etc etc) Just change your image preferences to do this. I always set mine to pretty much as low as possible as I am a RAW editor. Doesn't make for pretty lcd previews but shows me good light values that I understand.
AV - Will put you in control fully of the aperture to set the depth of field which then a calculation is made depending on the amount of light you are allowing or restricting to enter the lens to determine the shutter speed. Which is controlled by what metering system and or point you have set in your frame. You'll have exposure compensation sliders to aprox 3 stops of positive and negative exposure and this is by default always set to .0.
S - T Whatver its called
Shutter priority giving you the same as above just your in control of the shutter speed and the aperture is set by the camera
manual - obviously control of absolutely everything
These shooting modes are only different in the manner of determinaning a semi automatic route to exposure and depth of field.
Anything to do with a more punchy image is done to the camera in house processing which pretty much all compacts do with no alternative.
Digital slr allows you to capture raw data and bypass the cameras generic processing so you can apply your own (i.e. photoshop or lightroom etc etc etc) Just change your image preferences to do this. I always set mine to pretty much as low as possible as I am a RAW editor. Doesn't make for pretty lcd previews but shows me good light values that I understand.
AV - Will put you in control fully of the aperture to set the depth of field which then a calculation is made depending on the amount of light you are allowing or restricting to enter the lens to determine the shutter speed. Which is controlled by what metering system and or point you have set in your frame. You'll have exposure compensation sliders to aprox 3 stops of positive and negative exposure and this is by default always set to .0.
S - T Whatver its called
Shutter priority giving you the same as above just your in control of the shutter speed and the aperture is set by the camera
manual - obviously control of absolutely everything
Last edited:
Associate
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Great Forum, thanks man. Just started taking more of an interest in my wifes D80 that I bought for her a few years ago..
Thanks for the link, I bought a Canon 550d few days and absolutely know nothing about photography.
Soldato
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Here is a really good beginners guide, nothing complicated or in depth but gives you an idea of what the main settings are about.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088
I recommend anyone from beginner to pro registering on that site, there is so much info and inspiration it's brilliant.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414088
I recommend anyone from beginner to pro registering on that site, there is so much info and inspiration it's brilliant.
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Thanks for the continued replies I am reading and absorbing. I've another question - for some reason I can't get my SB400 flash to work as intended, so it must be something I'm doing wrong. If I attempt to take a photo in my office now, with the light off, so it's reasonably dark, and I set my camera to Aperture Priority mode and snap a photo it comes out totally black. Yet I have the SB400 powered on and ready. It's obvious to me the flash is required, and if you use the liveview you can see the picture is too dark, yet the flash fails to fire. Any idea how I can force it on?
I don't think there is any way of turning off the hotshoe flash on the D3100, at least I've never needed to turn it on. Make sure your unit is actually working and powered on making a good connection. Is it a TTL flash or manual?
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It's a TTL. I am wondering if I was too close to the subject, or at an unusual angle or something - If I move slightly back and refocus at a different point it snaps away fine. It's a bit on and off in programmable modes which is strange though, although it seems to work fine first time in auto mode. I tried cleaning the eletrical points on the fitting, wonder if that has helped at all.
I've never used the program or auto modes. Try switching to aperture and focusing on something, it should fire every time as long as focusing is correct and the flashgun is charged, my YN467 and YN560s charge very quickly on anything less than max but as soon as they're at max power it's about a couple of seconds between recharge, if you're snapping too quickly then this might also be the problem.