Over inflated tires?

-Ad- said:
And what happens when you're out on a drive or say on a track and the pressure climbs!

Please just source a books on how engines work; '4 stroke performance tuning' is pretty good and also pickup one on suspension design. You will learn a lot and might actually talk some sense for once :p
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How much do your temperatures rise (and pressure) on a spirited drive? How much does the pressure climb for each degree? I suggest you don't have any idea how this changes with a higher pressure, here is a clue, less tyre flex less temperature gain, less pressure gain. Clearly it is you that needs to read some.

How will a book on engine tuning first published over 25 years ago tell him anything useful about ECU tuning?

A learning ECU with an improved generic map (closed loop) is generally much better than a safe manufacturer map that is designed to work in every country in the world, unless you decide to take the car to the Sahara or Alaska.
 
I run 38/36 front/rear on the Mondeo and 34 all round on the MX-5, i.e. higher than the manufacturer's spec in both cases, and in both cases the car drives sharper, the tyre wear is even, and in the Mondeo's case the fuel economy is better. I say experimentation is the key to success :)
 
.... i run 45 in summer... Lol
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Oh really, that on the KERS machine? What sort or increase is that on recommended spec?

Johnnytoxic said:
You should do a bit of research matey.
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Like forum research on wikd generic maps?

The tuned map that is on the car now, even though it's generic and not custom to my car, it is based on a standard EP3 Type R like mine.
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And every EP3 is exactly the same, I mean EXACTLY the same? A generic map will be a rough guess at best, do you really want your engine to be setup at a rough guess?

Mapping, especially a Honda VTEC is about getting the fueling and ignition maps working well for both low and high cam, but you also have to think about how it will affect the driving, fuel usage and reliability. A generic map cannot take into account what your car runs like and what mods it has, it isn't telepathic.

Even getting your car mapped over the course of a few hours on a dyno won't get it near perfect, there are many many cells on a map; say 1k+ on a B18 for example. If the mapper spends say 5 seconds adjusting each one, the time to do all them all will be a lot more than a few hours. So even having mapping done this way is rough as they won't visit a large percentage of them. SO in the end you will be a bit lean here and there, a bit rich here and there and ignition timing might not be spot on either. This is from a mapping session done on a dyno specifically for your car,so thinking that some random map off the web/forum is anyway accurate at all is just plain stupid!


The difference between standard and now is worlds apart. Runs less lean, i've noticed a massive difference with fuel usage and low down torque. It's a completely different car and I would never go back. You seem to think KPRO is only for people with Superchargers and Turbos to get anything decent out of it.

it gives 30hp in midrange and 15hp at peak. From me that has one and live day to day with it, I cannot recommend it enough to people with DC2/DC5/EP3/S2000

Lower VTEC / Better Fuel / Lower torque, much better than spending £500 on an exhaust/intake. Yes if I had the money I would have those too :) Thing is when I come to sell it, I will be seeing pretty much all of my money again, the ECU's hold their value.
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Is this also done on a dyno on the same day to show a true before/after, or just a random guess/butt dyno.

I'm not rubbishing a good ECU and mapping, it just annoys me how many people harp on about how amazing something is they have bought (well they arn't going to critisize it) when all they've done is throw some random things on a car with a generic map and suddenly their butt dyno is the all accurate and factual prophecy that must be believed 100% and anyone who questions them gets shot down with 'what you know mate!'.
 
-Ad- said:
A generic map cannot take into account what your car runs like and what mods it has, it isn't telepathic.
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The map is from Hondata themselves who made it by running standard EP3's on a dyno ( No Mods !! ). Yes I'm sure each engine varies a smidge, but they all have the same parts from which this map was built for.

-Ad- said:
thinking that some random map off the web/forum is anyway accurate at all is just plain stupid!
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I'm not using lets say Civic Bob's map that has different intakes and exhausts than my standard car. It's Hondata's own.

The Hondata #4 one time reflash that is sold is pretty much the map I'm using.

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I'm not rubbishing a good ECU and mapping, it just annoys me how many people harp on about how amazing something is they have bought (well they arn't going to critisize it) when all they've done is throw some random things on a car with a generic map and suddenly their butt dyno is the all accurate and factual prophecy that must be believed 100% and anyone who questions them gets shot down with 'what you know mate!'.
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Apologies, my figures quoted are estimated gains from people who have put there standard cars with KPRO on dynos.
 
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Dr Who said:
How much do your temperatures rise (and pressure) on a spirited drive? How much does the pressure climb for each degree? I suggest you don't have any idea how this changes with a higher pressure, here is a clue, less tyre flex less temperature gain, less pressure gain. Clearly it is you that needs to read some.

How will a book on engine tuning first published over 25 years ago tell him anything useful about ECU tuning?

A learning ECU with an improved generic map (closed loop) is generally much better than a safe manufacturer map that is designed to work in every country in the world, unless you decide to take the car to the Sahara or Alaska.
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I haven't proclained to know everything, I have just suggested that MR Toxic has a read up to sort out his ground theory. I never said that book is the bible to ECU tuning, it's a great read into the working an engine and a variety of ways to tune it.

Throwing a generic map on is a starting point, nothing more. If you invest that much money in an ECU and some mods to the car it's stupid to not get it setup properly on a dyno. I don't nearly nearly as much as I should do about engine setup and tuning, but it's one complicated subject and my point is that some posts on an owners forum and a few random results from others cars don't suddenly mean yours is ideal.
 
Johnnytoxic said:
The map is from Hondata themselves who made it by running standard EP3's on a dyno ( No Mods !! ). Yes I'm sure each engine varies a smidge, but they all have the same parts from which this map was built for.
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I'm sure Hondata have done the best they can, but even if every engine only has the odd difference here and there, that is not just affecting a single point, say peak hp, but affects everything you see across what you see on a dyno plot.

With brand new cars out of the factory the differnce will be less, but many years down the line with cars leading different lives, driven different, serviced at different times with different products, these affects wil be amplified. I'm being quite anal here :D


Apologies, my figures quoted are estimated gains from people who have put there standard cars with KPRO on dynos.
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This is just my point, unless you have before/after plots from a dyno how do you know at all what your engine is actually giving you? Definately get the mods done you want to, say a fancy airbox or better designed manifold (thats another can of worms :p), then get it on a dyno and mappe specifically for your car. At least then you'll have the hard figures and plots showing your car is setup properly, you're getting the most out of what you have and also that thereisn't anything that might affect the reliability in the future :)
 
-Ad- said:
Throwing a generic map on is a starting point, nothing more. If you invest that much money in an ECU and some mods to the car it's stupid to not get it setup properly on a dyno. I don't nearly nearly as much as I should do about engine setup and tuning, but it's one complicated subject and my point is that some posts on an owners forum and a few random results from others cars don't suddenly mean yours is ideal.
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Sure, the generic map is a new starting point, but an improved starting point over the stock ECU with the option of further tuning later as funds allow.

That doesn't change the fact that higher tyre pressures over stock is often a good idea :)
 
zuludawn said:
CEO of BMW in the morning, opens his email. There he finds a link.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18316123

After careful reading he puts out a memo to all R&D to stop all development on new Diesel power plants. He then yells to his secretary "get me a foot pump, i have a plan"
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Yeah because making the BEST fuel economy is all a car company CEO cares about, if that was the case we would all be achieving 100 mpg about now ;)

All this from the company that said it would never make an oil burner :D
 
I too tend to find that I prefer to have a few PSi more than recommended in the tyres, I find most set ups on lorries, cars and bikes to be too soft.

I also like a couple of psi more in the left than the right, cardigan wearing as it sounds.
 
I thought the recommended pressures for the CTR were 32 front and 30 rear?

I imagine it'll light the tyres up like nobody's business in the wet at 40 (torqueless wonder jokes aside).
 
I run mine at a higher PSI than recommended.

The Conti's were much more "flobbery" at the recommended PSI than my old Potenza's, and with a few more PSI in each, they now feel more direct and more "Potenza RE050A" like.
 
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Sold my car the types should have been around 35 psi but i said they were underinflated perhaps cos the car had been stood for a few weeks. next time i spoke to the guy he told me: 'ya the tyres were underinflated - they should be 50 (something)' i didn't feel like arguing but there's no way they should be 50 psi.
 
I run mine 3psi higher all round, turn in is noticeably better, the steering is a little lighter and there's no noticeable difference in grip
 
I run 38 front 39 rear as recommended on the door for driver + 3 passengers at higher speeds, not that I ever carry 3 passengers.

You will notice BMW also recommend higher pressure in the rear (4-5 psi more) this is to increase rear grip, their reasoning is your average driver will be able to correct under steer easier than over steer.
 
Jonnycoupe said:
35 up to 45. Some yanks run 60psi :confused:
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Yanks will be yanks! But they run it hard as their roads are in such crap condition that they don't want anydeformation of the tyre upon going through a pothole/crater.

Don't know what I was on yesterday going on about 40psi, it's only 5more than I run on my fronts :rolleyes:
 
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