Classic Impreza Turbo

[Dr Who]

So found one I want, low mileage, unmolested and totally standard.

I know I gotta check the Gearbox 2-3 synchro, listen for bottom end noise and also the usual checks for turbo smoke. Is there anything else I should be checking?

(buying from a dealer so usual 3 month warranty applies)

 

[Fr0dders]

What mileage ? and have you get any receipts for any work done on it ?

 

[Disco Boy]

If I were you, I would get myself onto a manufacturer/ model specific forum for these sorts of questions.

 

[Will Gill]

If I were you, I would get myself onto a manufacturer/ model specific forum for these sorts of questions.

I wouldn't,

Plenty of people here have owned them and won't rosy tint opinions and/or things to look out for. it's the switzerland of all motor forums for me.

as for subarus if I listed all the things that had gone wrong on mine you would never buy one. but watch out for warped discs (few hard braking sessions back to back then see if it's all over the shop), any weak gear change 2-3 isn't a focal point mine chomped 6th for example. leaking rocker covers can be annoying and common, watch for uneven revving on idle (MAF or o2 on the way out), smoking turbo obviously, but mostly I'd watch out for chavvy additions to the car which means it's more than likely spent months on end being "rallied" - poorly

but they are reasonably bullet proof, until you fettle, then their weakest links fall to pieces

 

[hux]

Good solid reliable cars if looked after, if you have a lemon watch out, you'll know it quickly.

My 94 wrx runs like a peach, always has the best oil and fuel and runs a conservative map.

307hp 328lb/ft

 

[Dr Who]

It has a full service history, 70k on the clock, lots of history.

I have had leaking cam seals myself on a JDM Forester, due to poor cambelt changes, so yes a good one to check. Rear disks are a weak point, so will check, thanks for the reminder, uneven revving on idle can be a loss of compression on one cyl, so another good reminder. It is amazing how it comes back to you when people mention it.

I am a member on scoobynet, but find them wishy washy with info sometimes, I know lots here have scooby history including myself, so its good to ask in the community I am familar with.

There are no chavvy addons, it is completely stock, stock exhaust, stock airfilter, stock wheels, stock everything, a totally original unmolested car.

As you can imagine, finding one like this in almost showroom condition is cool, I don't wanna make any mistakes, but if I do, I can suck em up.

 

[Dr Who]

always has the best oil and fuel

3k oil changes and 6k filter?

 

[Maximum Triceratops]

Get one with full documented s/h and unmodified, this should give you trouble free motoring, mine did for the 5 years I owned it.

 

[Dr Who]

Get one with full documented s/h and unmodified, this should give you trouble free motoring, mine did for the 5 years I owned it.

I hope so, I loved my Forester S/Tb

 

[hux]

Not quite, 5k for both.

106k miles and drinks little to no oil, id say a litre between changes if that.

3k oil changes and 6k filter?

 

[scoobyrichuk]

Is it a UK Turbo or a JDM Sti/Wrx? If it's a UK Turbo you may find you get bored of it quickly, whilst far from slow the td04 is a fairly puny turbo and the stock brakes are awful. I've spent £5k on mods so far, this could easily double with a 6 speed box and forged engine which I'm forever tempted by. If you're happy to keep it stock and it's up for a decent price (shouldn't be more than £2500 - £3000 even if it's in superb condition) then go for it although if it's running the stock brake setup I'd reccomend some uprated pads, brake lines + fluid immediately. They are extremely reliable cars if well looked after, mine has never broken down, it barely burns any oil even with 102k on the clock and I put this down to regular maintenance (I change the oil + filter every 6 months + a service every 12 months including changing all fluids.)

 

[Dr Who]

Thanks for the info, it is a UK Classic 208bhp and although performance is nice, it is secondary for me really, having always had a great love for the way they drive and sound.

It is immaculate and well under £2k, brakes will likely get uprated with decent pads and discs and I already have stainless braided hoses in my shed.

 

[scoobyrichuk]

Thanks for the info, it is a UK Classic 208bhp and although performance is nice, it is secondary for me really, having always had a great love for the way they drive and sound.

It is immaculate and well under £2k, brakes will likely get uprated with decent pads and discs and I already have stainless braided hoses in my shed.

Sounds ideal then and for under £2k they are a bit of a bargain if you're an Impreza fan. Check out http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/category.php?id_category=38 for pads/discs. They can also supply refurb kits for the stock Subaru calipers...

 

[[FnG]magnolia]

Can we have a pic or two?

 

[EddScott]

Thanks for the info, it is a UK Classic 208bhp and although performance is nice, it is secondary for me really, having always had a great love for the way they drive and sound.

It is immaculate and well under £2k, brakes will likely get uprated with decent pads and discs and I already have stainless braided hoses in my shed.

What year is it?

Although to a point Will Gill is right, I would still go over the Scoobynet, say hello and post a link to the car in question (if available) you will get a measured response.

If it's 208hp then would it be 97/98? MY00/99 were about 216hp or similar. Best off with a 99/00 - better brakes, better ECU etc. 97/98 ECU can't or is hard to map so needs aftermarket job.

5th can be an issue - if it crunches when giving it some it. Not exactly sure what the details are - some nut having worked loose - although I think it's a relatively easy fix (don't think it's a gearbox out job)

Miss mine loads

 

[Meridian]

Best off with a 99/00 - better brakes, better ECU etc. 97/98 ECU can't or is hard to map so needs aftermarket job.

Didn't the last ones come with Ecutek? Or am I imagining things again? You can bypass the ECU fairly simply on the older models, but the "remap" is little more than boost control.


M

 

[Dr Who]

95N model

4 Doors, Manual, Saloon, Petrol, 78,800 miles, Silver, 3 Owners. Classic UK Impreza Turbo, Totally original, unmodified in any way, Full Leather Interior, Service History, Alloy wheels, Radio/CD, Central locking, Front electric windows, Rear electric windows, ABS, Drivers airbag, Headlight washers, Passenger airbag, Body coloured bumpers, PAS, Steering wheel rake adjustment, Electric door mirrors, Front fog lights, Alarm. Insurance Group:17

http://www.autoconnectbristol.co.uk...za-turbo-2000-4wd-4dr-bristol-201120387543267

Paid Deposit now, picking up wednesday

 

[Fuzz]

That's screwed it then.
Can't map that, too old.
Looks tidy enough though.

My best advice would be NOT to mod it. It'll be a never ending road if you go down it

 

[B@Th*nG]

what sort'a mpg do these do?

B@

 

[scoobyrichuk]

That's screwed it then.
Can't map that, too old.
Looks tidy enough though.

My best advice would be NOT to mod it. It'll be a never ending road if you go down it

You can map it with an ESL daughterboard: http://www.enduringsolutions.com/ You're right though, modding is a slippery slope with these cars (as I have found out ) although I don't think the op will want to anyway (other than a brake uppgrade!!)