Who has used one of these?

Soldato
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http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-145-AN

I've watched the youtube videos and it seems alright?

Not the clearest in the world? At what levels would the PSU be deemed broken? On the 12V line for e.g. What shouldn't it drop below, 11.8? It's not very clear IMO.

I'm doing a lot of diagnosis on PSU's and rather than swapping out for a working one which can be a pain. I think this would be a lot easier.

What's your thoughts?
 
The ATX specification is ± 5% on the +12V, +5V and +3V supplies.

So +12V can be 11.4-12.6V, +5V can be 4.75-5.25V and +3.3V can be 3.135V to 3.465V.
 
I used to use one of these to test PSUs, but quickly realised that it's a lot easier to keep a test PSU and just boot the rest of the PC with that. if it works, problem solved.
 
I used to use one of these to test PSUs, but quickly realised that it's a lot easier to keep a test PSU and just boot the rest of the PC with that. if it works, problem solved.

It is a bit of a hassle though... taking out the screws, wedging it past the stupid cpu fan dust filter, unplugging all the connectors... getting covered in dust!

Did it to the job for you and was it accurate?
 
It is a bit of a hassle though... taking out the screws, wedging it past the stupid cpu fan dust filter, unplugging all the connectors... getting covered in dust!

Did it to the job for you and was it accurate?

If you've done quite a few before (believe me, I have!), it only takes a few minutes. In fact, to test it takes less as you don't need to install the new PSU in the case, just trail the cables and sit the unit outside, that what I've always done.

The PSU tester does give you the required info if you have a dead rail or the whole unit is just totally gone, the tester will indicate that, but it won't indicate a lot of PSU issues such as overheating, or failing under load and more complex problems. You may finding yourself installing another unit to check anyway. Rather than going A-> B->C you should just go A->C. If you catch my drift.
 
haha... I'm going to start googling answers to questions and make myself look really smart from now on :D

I'm sure that's what some people do :p

You can't have thought that everyone "knows" the answers they give to every question posed on the forum.

It's quite often a case of "I've heard of this and I know where to find the answer".
 
You can't have thought that everyone "knows" the answers they give to every question posed on the forum.

It's quite often a case of "I've heard of this and I know where to find the answer".

Any question I answer. I genuinly know the answer to. I couldn't be bothered googling for an answer that someone else could do.

Guess that makes me the smart one :p
 
If you've done quite a few before (believe me, I have!), it only takes a few minutes. In fact, to test it takes less as you don't need to install the new PSU in the case, just trail the cables and sit the unit outside, that what I've always done.

The PSU tester does give you the required info if you have a dead rail or the whole unit is just totally gone, the tester will indicate that, but it won't indicate a lot of PSU issues such as overheating, or failing under load and more complex problems. You may finding yourself installing another unit to check anyway. Rather than going A-> B->C you should just go A->C. If you catch my drift.

THIS!

If you think logically if the PSU is dead you need one to replace it with anyway. I always have a "new" decent brand budget PSU that is known to work. I sell it on if it's needed......simples :) (note i saved you from suffering any winks!)

*P.S*

Surely a multimeter would be cheaper? Simply short the pins to start the PSU and test the voltages, you even know the tolerances now (dare i wink!)
 
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THIS!

If you think logically if the PSU is dead you need one to replace it with anyway. I always have a "new" decent brand budget PSU that is known to work. I sell it on if it's needed......simples :) (note i saved you from suffering any winks!)

*P.S*

Surely a multimeter would be cheaper? Simply short the pins to start the PSU and test the voltages, you even know the tolerances now (dare i wink!)

I know what you're saying. That is what I have been doing. However. If and when I don't have any spare PSU's kicking about. I have to assume that it's the problem, I then buy one and it's not the problem. I'm left with an open box unused PSU, which I do sell on... but it's incovenient and sort of bugs me that I've wasted a few days and opened it for nothing.

It's also a pain having to look around for a paper clip, I've had to use solder the past few times as I keep meaning to get some paperclips.

I just think it would be easier to test the psu without even having to take it out the case. Which I know you can do with a multimeter, but it's not just as efficient... or cool!

OK... I'm trying to justify this purchase, that's why I haven't bought one yet! Oh dear!
 
You don't have to remove it from the case though, that's what I was saying. You can get a 'test' PSU for less than £20 probably, not much of a loss to just keep one with you and sell it when you fit? Just make sure you always have one, simple. No faffing with paperclips, just try a new unit. The only things you need to plug in are the 24-pin ATX and the P4 connector usually, maybe a fan depending on the PC or HDD if you need to check data etc.
 
You don't have to remove it from the case though, that's what I was saying. You can get a 'test' PSU for less than £20 probably, not much of a loss to just keep one with you and sell it when you fit? Just make sure you always have one, simple. No faffing with paperclips, just try a new unit. The only things you need to plug in are the 24-pin ATX and the P4 connector usually, maybe a fan depending on the PC or HDD if you need to check data etc.

I'm annoyed because your right!

I wanted a new toy to play with... owel! I'll stick to what I have been doing. Cheers!
 
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