It will be the Turbo Actuator, I have had mine go a couple of times, the first two times I repaired it myself, as it was just some dry solder joints. Then the last time I couldn't find the fault on the PCB so purchased a recon Turbo off the 'bay' and just swapped over the Actuator.
To tell if its the actuator, lift the bonnet, and start the engine, you can see the actuator through the gap at the bottom of the windscreen, its the black box with a small rod going to the side of the turbo, with the engine running blip the throttle you should see the rod move slightly, what happens when the actuator fails is that as you blip the throttle the ECU puts the engine into limp mode which moves the actuator to the fully open position. The adjusts the variable vains on the turbo to fully open and as such you get no boost pressure, hence no power.
To fix, if you any good with a soldering iron, remove the 'C' clip on the actuator where it connects to the rod, and swing the rod out of the way, then there are 3x 8mm bolts remove these and then electrical plug on the actuator. Then remove the 6 or 7 clips that holds the actuator together you can then split it into two. once apart you will see the PCB board with about 7 'jumper' wires going from the PCB board to casing, it's these joints that go faulty. I just soldered some more wire between the PCB and casing, which did me good for about 2 years & 60,000 miles.
This was the only fault I found when the coil light would flash, I have had issues where the hose from intercooler to EGR popped off (After I had been cleaning the EGR and forgot to fully tighten the jubilee clip
) this gave a lose of power and an engine management light but not flashing coil lights.
The above only counts if you have an electrical Actuator, some of the earlier Mondeos had a mechanical one fitted.
Mike
