First time watercooling, will this work?

Nemesis379

Nemesis379

Nemesis379

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I'm venturing into water-cooling pretty soon and i want your guys opinions, this is what i'm looking at doing:

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I call it, a work of art :D.

Edit: I'm going to be using Primochill 3/8" 5/8" or Tygon clear haven't decided yet and i may change the fans
 
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huge overkill on the radiators tbh, you should only need a single 360 for that loop, unless your cooling mobo + ram + hard drives and god knows what else

Also, Res>pump>block>rad, res+pump have to come first :p
 
As above, overkill on rads, got a 2500k and 570 on a 360 and temps are good.

However the above isn't quite right. Res has to come before pump but other than that anything goes.
 
I'm going to be using a koolance pump top and res and mount it underneath the hard drive bay, the case is a Lian Li PC-8NB.

Here's a pic of the koolance pump top/res, it wont be this big ofc :D.

dont post competitor links or pictures with competitor branding please.

It's gonna be mounted upside down so the res is facing outwards, i'm gonna use the inlet at the top and put a 90 degree facing to rad, then 45 degree to the top rad.

Also,

Hmm, come to think of it i was calculating it wrong, this means it will cover nearly 3 PCI slots, and mount the pump/res like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqQABcON67I

However, i am basing these measurements off my PCI slots to where the measuring tape meets the PSU in my Antec 300, however it looks as if there is more space in the bottom of this case, i just need someone to measure it, also i would prefer to have everything mounted inside, yes it's gonna be compact, but it will be worth it :D.

And guys the fans are going to be on a low RPM and another GTX 580 will be added on later, so what do you think about the rad space now? XD, or i could go with just a 360 and a 120.

Thanks for your input.
 
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A 360 and 120 should be ample for 2x 580 and your cpu.

That pump really should be vertical ot ensure the pump inlet (bottom of res) is always under water.
 
like others say overkill on the rads but u prolly want to at least put the 120 rad looped between the cpu and gpu, or at least i prolly would do that
 
The loop order does not matter so long as the res feeds the pump.
Don't forget to put in drainage and fill points, makes life allot easier.

While i agree to over spec on rads, too many rads could also cause additional flow reduction.
 
Gunda said:
The loop order does not matter so long as the res feeds the pump.
Don't forget to put in drainage and fill points, makes life allot easier.

While i agree to over spec on rads, too many rads could also cause additional flow reduction.
Click to expand...

Rads don't reduce flow rate that much around a 1/3rd of a normal cpu block.
 
Now i'm thinking of using a different case guys, maybe the TJ07, it seems a bit big i do want just a mid tower, arrrgh!
 
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Are the names correct?, i think i will probably go with Parallel as it looks a lot cleaner, also what about tubing and fluid i'm thinking probably going Tygon Clear with just water but where do i get the water from?

Or go with Primoflex 3/8" 5/8" Blue / UV Blue with water.

I'm going to be using True Silver fittings so there is no need for a kill coil?

Cheers mate!
 
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Nemesis379 said:
Are the names correct?, i think i will probably go with Parallel as it looks a lot cleaner, also what about tubing and fluid i'm thinking probably going Tygon Clear with just water but where do i get the water from?

Or go with Primoflex 3/8" 5/8" Blue / UV Blue with water.

I'm going to be using True Silver fittings so there is no need for a kill coil?

Cheers mate!
Click to expand...

If you want clear water http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-004-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531&subcat=

If you use kill coil(s) or true silver fittings, you would still want to use some thing for anti corrosion(at least that is whats advised with EK blocks)

Alternatively, EC6 has a clear variant, which is a premix so you don't have to add any kind of additives(silver and/or anti corro)

Tygon is nice(and expensive!) but I have read that it is having a "clouding" effect some time after the loop installation!
 
If for example, i choose to buy the clear water you suggested, use true silver fittings, what anti corrosion would i need to buy if i do need it (i've listed the blocks i will be using) and how many litres should i buy of that liquid, i looked that that EC6 but it's UV, i will go for thermochill tubing as well :D.

The parts i'm going to be using:

True Silver Fittings
Apogee HD Gold Plated
Hydro Copper 2

Thanks for your responses, i still can't decide wither to go for 3/8" or 1/2".

Edit: Think i'm just gonna go with 3/8".
 
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Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 is as it says, purified water!
So you will nedd either kill coil(s) or true silver fittings or a bio-side to have the anti algae effect.
EK and some other water block manufacturers do recommend using an anti corrosion(corrosion inhibitor) of some sort.
I have not used this combination my self though.

For me, using pure water, kill coils and an anti corro solution would be just as same as using a pre mix liquid(likes of "Thermochill EC6 Non Conductive Coolant : Clear / Clear")
I can't link to where you can get non UV clear EC6 but if you do a Google search with the above full wording, you should be able to find them ;)
They are about £9 per 1L bottle(excluding delivery).

I also hear lot of good things about Mayhems Pastel range!

I got 2 x 1L bottles of Clear EC6 bottles and I had to use about 1200ml of them(So I still have more than half a bottle left).

Tube size matter very little (if not at all)!
But with a case as big as a TJ07 would look bit out of place with small tubing IMO.
 
So i would just buy Thermochill EC6 and it wouldn't matter what else i bought, because that would be doing the job right? :D

It says the coolant becomes conductive over time, is that anything to worry about, and how long do you take before draining/filling your loop.

Thanks again mate, i just like to be sure on everything :D.
 
Nemesis379 said:
So i would just buy Thermochill EC6 and it wouldn't matter what else i bought, because that would be doing the job right? :D

It says the coolant becomes conductive over time, is that anything to worry about, and how long do you take before draining/filling your loop.

Thanks again mate, i just like to be sure on everything :D.
Click to expand...


Yep! Most of the premix liquid are including anti corro and anti algae solutions(including EC6).

ALL coolant liquid becomes conductive over time, even the purest "pure water" becomes contaminated and conductive the moment you expose it to air or when it touches the tubing and/or RAD and blocks. It is a matter of finding the right balance ;)
That is why most recommend changing the coolant liquid - some times after an year, some times more or less.

With EC6 i think it is 2 years but I would say 1 year is enough :)

Didn't understand by "how long do you take before draining/filling your loop"
 
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