pump/waterblock

jeff6475 said:
if that is kinked it would make the flow bad i know you said it was fine and not kinking but take another look
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like i said buddy its fine.
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lookin at the video seem your flow is low

i would disconect the bottom rad from case move it around as much as poss to make sure u dont have an air lock

then do same with the top one.

before buying new kit

seems from what i saw the flow is low ..


this is a weird one tbh


i dont think u need a bigger res if the rads are full they do the cooling all a larger res does is gives you that little mor volume so the water takes longer to get to ambient



i have 2 x 250 ml res and a pump header tank and a 240 rad from a ek2,2 pump and my water is flying round

i think u may still have an air lock or a flow problem ( blockage)
 
I had one of those XSPC pump/res combos, and it broke, but the only indication was that my temps on all cards went up. The pump, despite being submerged was full of air, and ultimately the impeller broke. NO water was flowing.

The temperature on your GPU @ 50C is not particularly high if that is fully loaded, but if that is unloaded, then I'd agree that is VERY high and indicative that there is little or no flow round your loop.

Clamp off the hoses to your pump, and test that the pump is actually moving some water.
 
Tattysnuc said:
I had one of those XSPC pump/res combos, and it broke, but the only indication was that my temps on all cards went up. The pump, despite being submerged was full of air, and ultimately the impeller broke. NO water was flowing.

The temperature on your GPU @ 50C is not particularly high if that is fully loaded, but if that is unloaded, then I'd agree that is VERY high and indicative that there is little or no flow round your loop.

Clamp off the hoses to your pump, and test that the pump is actually moving some water.
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temp on GPU is at full load overclocked under furmark
 
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craarc said:
lookin at the video seem your flow is low

i would disconect the bottom rad from case move it around as much as poss to make sure u dont have an air lock

then do same with the top one.

before buying new kit

seems from what i saw the flow is low ..


this is a weird one tbh


i dont think u need a bigger res if the rads are full they do the cooling all a larger res does is gives you that little mor volume so the water takes longer to get to ambient



i have 2 x 250 ml res and a pump header tank and a 240 rad from a ek2,2 pump and my water is flying round

i think u may still have an air lock or a flow problem ( blockage)
Click to expand...

just done the top rad and its full, cant hear any movement of water at all. i'll try the bottom rad but there isnt much room to maneuver it around with the hose connected to the gfx card, gona rest the case on the front panel for a few hours
 
vonex said:
temp on GPU is at full load overclocked under furmark
Click to expand...

In that case then, this shows that you have flow. If there are no airbubbles the fluid is hardly visible that it is moving, unless you have some impurities in it.

If the GPU is being cooled down to 50C then you must have flow. That's performing better than under air, so your loop is funtioning fine. Only the CPU is too hot, so either your CPU is a particularly hot one, or your CPU block is not functioning correctly.

If the microfins were clogged up, then I'd expect the flow to drop and the temp to be slightly higher. How old is the block, and when was the last time you cleaned the CPU block out?
 
the pump/res combo is a cheapish 1,what XSPC do with there £99 single rad kit so if no air in loop just go for it invest in a better pump and new CPU block cos that is an old model
 
vonex said:
just done the top rad and its full, cant hear any movement of water at all. i'll try the bottom rad but there isnt much room to maneuver it around with the hose connected to the gfx card, gona rest the case on the front panel for a few hours
Click to expand...

I usually achieve this by unplugging the rig, and hotwiring the pump so it is the only component physically powered up. Then I turn the case so the radiator I want to de-aerate is at the lowest point, ie tip the case upside down, so that any air rises into the reservoir. Looking at your case, if you were to roll it so that its on the back (there the io ports are) then this should achieve the same - as long as the reservoir is physically higher than the radiators. I then just leave it in situe for a couple of hours, and all the air usually comes out.

I doubt that's your problem though as your gpu is being cooled....
 
Tattysnuc said:
I usually achieve this by unplugging the rig, and hotwiring the pump so it is the only component physically powered up. Then I turn the case so the radiator I want to de-aerate is at the lowest point, ie tip the case upside down, so that any air rises into the reservoir. Looking at your case, if you were to roll it so that its on the back (there the io ports are) then this should achieve the same - as long as the reservoir is physically higher than the radiators. I then just leave it in situe for a couple of hours, and all the air usually comes out.

I doubt that's your problem though as your gpu is being cooled....
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just becarfull cos you will get a leak from the top of the res/pump they arnt great up top,altho yours looks pretty solid still keep an eye out
 
jeff6475 said:
the pump/res combo is a cheapish 1,what XSPC do with there £99 single rad kit so if no air in loop just go for it invest in a better pump and new CPU block cos that is an old model
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I'd certainly go with the CPU block comment. For example, the Apogee GTZ I had is rubbish vs the Apogee XT on my i7 950 rig.

Try changing one thing at a time, that way you know what made the difference. Besides, with the free shipping OCUK offer, there's no excuse...
 
Judging from the GPU temp flow isn't a problem, radiator cooling isn't a problem, only the cpu temps are and even hot IVY's should run significantly cooler.

I would consider, if you have enough room in there and you have access to the back plate, whacking it down to stock, checking temps, then taking off the cpu block, whack on the stock heatsink and checking temps against stock heatsink If its same/worse than stock heatsink.... there is a problem there, most likely with mounting. If its lower with water at stock than the stock heatsink, you could have a bad chip that runs stupid hot, mobo incorrectly setting volts so when overclocking you're simply using way higher voltage than you think you are and that is pushing temps way up.

It would seem, from the gpu working fine, that the problem is mounting somehow. It could be as simple as a dodgy mobo bios misreading temps way to high, seeing as its easy to check(and could even be listed as a fix on a new bios) I'd look into that as it won't take any time at all.

New block, there is a slim chance I guess that where IVY actually sits under the heatspreader could on a block that bows significantly, not be optimised at all for IVY and the contact is mostly over the gpu part of the die rather than CPU. but Ivy is so small I doubt that would be the case. I can't see a new waterblock itself will bring temps down, the best/worst blocks are only a few C apart, though if the mounting simply isn't giving enough pressure for an Ivy, a new block could fix that.


Definitely focus on mounting/cpu fault/mobo reading temp wrong. If that loop can cool a 7970 at load to 50C, it has no flow or cooling capacity problem.
 
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