Watercooling non-reference graphics cards, and more

muffles

muffles

muffles

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21 Jun 2012
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Hi, first post...signed up to get some watercooling advice.

I may or may not be doing it depending on the outcome of this...

My current machine (only what's important for below):
* i7 2600K (standard)
* 1 SSD, 1 HDD
* 2 MSI 6950 TF3s
* Xonar D2X
* PC Power and Cooling PSU (760W I think)
* Coolermaster Silencio 550 case

Note: The MSI 6950 TF3s. I already know these are not ideal for watercooling as they are non-reference, but bear with me - I spent £400 on them and don't fancy losing lots of money selling and buying more (I could also swap if the right swap came up, but let's not consider that for now).

So, questions:
1. What sorts of watercooling options have I got for the VRM/RAM?
I've seen some universal blocks:
Koolance
Anfi-tec (you may want to Google translate this from German)

Here is the board layout and here you can see the heat spreader.

* Universal blocks above don't work as need to retain the heat spreader - and cannot mount the universal blocks without removing it (if they even fit after that)
* Need to retain heat spreader as the waterblocks wouldn't reach everything
* Thinking of watercooling these ancillary parts as my cards run pretty hot as they are due to my setup
* Would be reducing airflow through case if I watercooled as would want to reduce fan speed

2. I'd be planning on cooling the graphics cards and the CPU - what minimum radiator/fan setup do I need for this? I was thinking of a 360mm radiator and 3x120mm fans (I have 3 in my case which I picked for highest CFM for the given dbA I was willing to accept). I've seen conflicting information online, as usual.

3. I have no room in my case to fit the radiator so it would be external. But I don't like the look of those radiators bolted to the outside of the rear - so I would just want a free standing radiator to put on top of my case/next to it. Is this "done"? How do people power the fans (cable hanging out??)?

I have a few other thoughts, especially with the graphics cards, that I can elaborate on if needed.

Oh, worth noting this will be my first attempt at watercooling anything! I'm not super-knowledgeable but I have built PCs before (this one included).
 
Oh, you can ignore the current machine specs actually. I thought I had a question on power requirements but it turned out I misread the guide! :)
 
Have you had a search online for a non-reference block? Ek made a non-reference block for the gtx460 which I'm currently using, so there could be one out there somewhere.
 
Excellent, thanks guys.

seekdestroy said:
Have you had a search online for a non-reference block? Ek made a non-reference block for the gtx460 which I'm currently using, so there could be one out there somewhere.
Click to expand...

I've searched and searched but no luck unfortunately. I could give you links but it'd seem like I'm spamming! Heard a comment that a 6850 block might fit? But checked the reference card layout and totally different, unfortunately.

If someone had information about a fitting full cover block I would be forever in their debt ;-)

Cleeecooo said:
2) 240mm is mimimum, 360 is ideal :)
Click to expand...

Good to hear on the radiator. I got worried when I saw another thread (on here, I think) about a guy using a 360mm AND a 240mm rad...he only had one more graphics card (so 3 total)! I have no restriction on radiator thickness if it's external so that's in my favour.

Cleeecooo said:
3) Yes, you can have the rad freestanding, although i'd suggest you support it in one way or another.The cables would have to be external and go to the inside somehow, as would the tubing

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.ne...70873_100002184927491_590799_1332800188_n.jpg

Alternatiely, you could try this:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=wc-094-ka
Click to expand...

are those not both going to result in the same layout? i.e. radiator attached to the rear of the case? unfortunately, those are the styles i'm not too keen on (they just seem to be dangling a little too much...if there was some way to have a frame that was almost an extension to the case, i'd do it). what i was thinking of was something like this. i guess i would route the fans back inside then, i suppose the pipes have to anyway!

i'm going to elaborate on one of my graphics cards ideas, see how realistic it is: measure the heatspreader and get a replacement cut out (because i don't want to destroy my original). drill holes and mount the universal waterblocks above - or one of these might fit (above where the RAM is) - and would involve less pipework than a couple of universal blocks instead...
 
For graphics card, whatever you do, do not drill any holes on the card!!!

Just get a universal blok and cool the VRAM passively. They don't produce much heat so getting some VRAM heatsinks will be sufficient cooling for them

Also, try coolingconfigurator.com for full block compatibility.
 
Cleeecooo said:
For graphics card, whatever you do, do not drill any holes on the card!!!

Just get a universal blok and cool the VRAM passively. They don't produce much heat so getting some VRAM heatsinks will be sufficient cooling for them

Also, try coolingconfigurator.com for full block compatibility.
Click to expand...

Actually I meant drilling the heat spreader (it is separate) or a template one. I'd want to keep all the original bits, I think. No way I'm drilling the card itself! :)

Does that sound realistic? To me, it seems to depend on the cost of getting a template heat spreader cut, and of course whether it's necessary. I certainly haven't ruled out passive cooling but I wanted to check all the options before I went with it - primary concern with passive cooling is several reports/warnings that the mini-heatsinks can fall off - meaning no cooling AND they have a possibility of falling on to the back of the 2nd card below.

I don't think there are any temperature sensors in the RAM/VRM so it can't be monitored; pretty much the only thing to do is make sure it's enough beforehand?
 
Cleeecooo said:
Also, try coolingconfigurator.com for full block compatibility.
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't address this comment of yours! Unfortunately, it's one of the first things I found. I really have spent hours searching with all sorts of terms and have not found any evidence of an existing full cover :(

A few threads with people asking but they always went with passive cooling and a universal block in the end...
 
muffles said:
primary concern with passive cooling is several reports/warnings that the mini-heatsinks can fall off
Click to expand...

If you fit the stickle brick sinks to the ram chips/vrms as normal, then put a teeny tiny blob of silicone sealant on one or two corners of each chip to "glue" it to the card, it will not fall off until you want to to come off. Note I am not talking about getting any of the sealant between the chip and the sink, just on the outside surface of the sink and bridged to a bit of the card.

Or just cover the default heat spreader with stickle brick sinks directly instead.
 
Bubo said:
If you fit the stickle brick sinks to the ram chips/vrms as normal, then put a teeny tiny blob of silicone sealant on one or two corners of each chip to "glue" it to the card, it will not fall off until you want to to come off. Note I am not talking about getting any of the sealant between the chip and the sink, just on the outside surface of the sink and bridged to a bit of the card.

Or just cover the default heat spreader with stickle brick sinks directly instead.
Click to expand...

Silicone sealant is a great idea, and one I hadn't seen yet, thank you! Previously I had only seen talk of superglue which I wasn't really comfortable with.

Having said that, based on that idea is it an option to use thermal tape plus silicone sealant to fix one of the universal/mosfet waterblocks I mentioned above, to the heat spreader? It'll be a bit pricier but in the context of everything I'll need to buy, perhaps not?
 
My GTX 480 has the VRM cooled by little heatsinks. They all fell of instantly :/ so I made my own combo of superglue and thermal paste and now they don't fall off. Ideally you could just get some thermal expoxy if you aren't comfortable with using glue.
 
muffles said:
Having said that, based on that idea is it an option to use thermal tape plus silicone sealant to fix one of the universal/mosfet waterblocks I mentioned above, to the heat spreader? It'll be a bit pricier but in the context of everything I'll need to buy, perhaps not?
Click to expand...

The only issue will be the greater forces you will encounter when attaching tubes etc. Thermal tape might work ok initially but any residual forces in the tubes may act to prise the sink off, especially as it gets up to temp. I was also thinking you could use the free holes in the heat spreader to put a clamp bar across the top of a mosfet water block in some way, but it would always end up looking Heath Robinson, if you are bothered about that. Of course silicone sealant in addition to tape would probably keep it firmly fixed, but it would be difficult to get it looking neat, again if that bothers you.
 
Thanks - good to know. Looks wise I'm not too bothered, since its not going to be as perfect as I would want it if I started out with the intention of making it look good. But I'll give that some thought as it adds complexity to the pipework as well, so that combined with looks...may sway me!
 
I got the same problem muffles with 6950 TF3 and actually thought about designing my own heat spreaders for it...
I don't think there should be a problem with putting an universal block on the card, and still keeping the original heat spreader (someone have done it, I must have seen it somewhere).

As mentioned, it's not difficult to stick extra heat sinks on the spreader, Trust Me for a supplier if you are interested.
 
Yeah, in one of the other threads on here I saw someone who just left the heat spreader as-is.

I've had a think about it and given the stick on heat sinks are pretty cheap, and less hassle, I'm going to go with adding some to the heat spreader (I know they run without normally, but a) my case is hot, and b) the airflow may be reduced). I can change to a waterblock later if needed.

You'll have to forgive my ignorance but what will it do if I "trust" you? Are we only allowed to give links to trusted people or something? I'll certainly take a link as I haven't figured out where I'm buying from yet (will buy everything from the same place if possible).

I'm sure I will have some further setup questions later :)
 
Bottom right corner of the post you will see a 'trust' button.
This is to contact people thru e-mail as rules dont let us share details of OCUK competitors etc.
Well, this isn't really in the computer hardware shop but they sell some of the stuff that OCUK do as well so dunno if can just simply post here.
Anyway, more flexibility and choice with their stuff than a limited number of heat sinks here...
 
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