Loop and questions

Nickolp1974

Nickolp1974

Nickolp1974

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By the end of next week should finaly be able to put my loop together, been waiting for pump :(
here is a rough diagram of bits and flow
red = components
blue = fans
water.jpg


what do ya think??? any suggestions

2. when filling the loop do i leave top off res and keep filling? whilst the pump is on.
3. For fitting a drain point, what do i need and do Ocuk have what i will require, position i was thinking of was just in front of lower rad as the dust cover is removeable so could drain out of bottom.
4. bleeding, again do i unscrew top of res to let air out???

thx
nick

edit, not sure if i can do it yet but would like to route the long tube from top rad to controller WB to the back of the case, where cables are, can you get tube to tube fittings, as i dont want to kink the tube.
 
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For tube-to-tube fittings you can just use an female-female angle connection and two fittings - that's what I did.

Is that a switch 810/monsta rads (since the diagram has 80mm thick rads)? If so, if you flip the 240 the other way up there will be a drain port accessible if you remove the dust cover. That's how I drain mine. Pretty sure it doesn't have a port on both ends but worth checking.
 
one comment - from the picture it looks like you are planning on drawing air in to the case over the 240 and then out of the top over the 360... you'll be basically taking all the heat the 240 can dump and pushing it back in to the 360 rad before the 360 is able to then shed any of it's own heat

you want to have all the fans on the rads on push out of the case for best performance

if you can fit a fan in the bottom of the case and the side panel sucking in, this will help
 
andybird123 said:
one comment - from the picture it looks like you are planning on drawing air in to the case over the 240 and then out of the top over the 360... you'll be basically taking all the heat the 240 can dump and pushing it back in to the 360 rad before the 360 is able to then shed any of it's own heat

you want to have all the fans on the rads on push out of the case for best performance

if you can fit a fan in the bottom of the case and the side panel sucking in, this will help
Click to expand...

yes you were right with your first statement

thx andy, so both of the rads fans on pull???

cannot do push pull on the 360, is it worth doing for the 240?

I have got a fan to be mounted inbetween the psu and rad drawing some cool air in, the exhaust fan to the rear of the case would you keep that exhausting or flip it to draw more air in to cool motherboard????
 
Nickolp1974 said:
Yeah its a switch, when draining do you run the pump, or just let it run out?

Is this fitting tube to tube?http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-280-OK&groupid=962&catid=1529&subcat=1778
Click to expand...

When I drain mine I don't run the pump, as it would quickly be drawing in air (and running it on air is bad). Most of the liquid drains out from mavity, most of the rest can be got out with tipping the case a little.

Yeah that fitting appears to be tube to tube, although for mine I used something which didn't have fittings, and added two of my own. Something like this but with female on both ends: www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-110-BP&groupid=962&catid=1529&subcat=1852

For my fans I have all fans on rads pushing into the case. I also have the bottom fan you mention, set up as intake as well. The only exhaust fan is the rear - I didn't put the bottom as exhaust because I thought it would give an airflow where each rad's airflow goes in to the case and then out again right away through the nearest exhaust. I hoped the set up I have creates a flow where air from the bottom rad goes all the way through the case - it matters because I have universal gpu blocks and heatsinks for vrms etc that need some airflow.
Not sure if this is the best setup though as the heatsinks will get some hot rad air (but also cool air from the bottom intake fan).
 
Thx muffles for your reply, think i'm just gonna have to try different set ups to see what gives the better results.
I can certainly see where andy is coming from by drawing the warm air out at source, but this in turn i would have thought will reduce airfow through the case. If everything had a waterblock. On then that solution would defo be the best way, but i'm thinking i need some air over the memory and motherboard. Oh i have got an old dominator memory fan module, that could help there, no?
 
I will be switching my bottom 240 fans to underneath the rad and making them a push. I have the top fans as pull (can't have them as push because of the rad thickness) and I will be doing this tomorrow when my new PSU arrives.

I will report back on temps Nick. Just for the record, I have a front fan sucking into the case closely followed by another fan sucking in and the rear fan is blowing out the case.

I can understand the movement of heat through the case but I can't see a better way of getting the heat from the bottom 240 out of the case quickly.
 
Have all rads taking in outside cool air. The slightly higher air temp is offset by better directed airflow blown over the board than if both rad fans are outake. That has been my experience.
 
Just reporting how my temps are with the new set up of fans underneath the bottom 240 rad in push and the fans at the top 360 rad in pull.

3930K @ 4.625 (1.32V) idle 35C full load 61C (prime been running for 2 hours)

Great improvement for me this way :)

Pump is on full btw and fans pretty full (a little noisy). I will be lowering my pump and fans soon.
 
Ahh it did help, I did mean to ask. 61c prime load is pretty damn good tbh, you can expect 5-10c lower in your average game. Hopefully get some temps along those lines when I rebuild and presumably don't have to apply in excess of 1.5v to counter vdroop :p

I'm not a fan of prime, much prefer 5 runs of IBT followed by some gaming.
 
gregster said:
Just reporting how my temps are with the new set up of fans underneath the bottom 240 rad in push and the fans at the top 360 rad in pull.

3930K @ 4.625 (1.32V) idle 35C full load 61C (prime been running for 2 hours)

Great improvement for me this way :)

Pump is on full btw and fans pretty full (a little noisy). I will be lowering my pump and fans soon.
Click to expand...

Thx greg, did you have both rad fans on pull before??
 
pgi947 said:
I'm not a fan of prime, much prefer 5 runs of IBT followed by some gaming.
Click to expand...

I've been using IBT a lot more lately, been mega stable with that but can still have the odd crash with bf3 :(, not been testing properly though leaving that till its all under water, 3 days to go!:D
 
pgi947 said:
Ahh it did help, I did mean to ask. 61c prime load is pretty damn good tbh, you can expect 5-10c lower in your average game. Hopefully get some temps along those lines when I rebuild and presumably don't have to apply in excess of 1.5v to counter vdroop :p

I'm not a fan of prime, much prefer 5 runs of IBT followed by some gaming.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input and I am very pleased with these temps. I didn't think it would make that much of a difference :) Nice one bruvva. Ohhhh and I use prime purely because I can carry on doing other bits while I keep an eye on the temps. Works well for me.

Nickolp1974 said:
Thx greg, did you have both rad fans on pull before??
Click to expand...

I had the top fans (above the rad) as pull and the bottom fans (above the rad as pull). I swapped over the fans on the bottom to under the rad and to push. I guess it helps that my floor is heavy ceramic tiles and they are cold all year round.

Edit:

Meant to say after turning the fans all the way down to ~600, temps are sitting at 45C. Nice and quiet now though :)
 
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Previously I had OC's that were 'prime stable' that failed inside 5 runs of IBT, I just find IBT is a quicker solution that doesn't involve putting un-required stress on the system for a daft amount of time.

CPU Intensive games are also a good way to find out stability, had the odd BSOD in the past on BF3 thats resulted in me giving the vcore a nudge. Which is one of the perks of WC is you don't have to be so anal with getting the voltage down to a bare minimum. I'll be back doing some full HD encodes early next year too, should give the CPU a good work out :)

@nick, hows the MSI board? Looking forward to getting my xpower II up and running :)
 
to be honest the board is very much like AMD(starts off slow and builds to be a top performer), as in it works well but perhaps not how it ought to, but that was when it was new, beta updates are released at a rapid rate and i'm pleased to report that its about there now, was so used to ASUS boards which just worked from the off. when i tested it with my 2500k i got that upto 4.8, the highest my asus z68 could manage was about 4650hz. so overall i'm happy with my purchase and imo it looks the dogs :)

1 more question, i kept to my original plan of black tubes, against advice(sorry paul!) can the air bubbles be heard???? the only place i will see them is in my res.
 
From my experience with bubbles (and I have had a lot of experience lately) is I can't see them with my red dye either. I found that by shaking the case like a madman after it was all filled up helped. You can clearly hear fluid gushing about. I then topped up the res and done the same for a few times. I went so far as to putting the case on its back and side. After doing this for an hour or so, after shaking the case, I can't hear any movement of fluid and I just turned it on its back and side again to double check.

Edit:

I did a complete drain and refill today as the pipes on the bottom were too long after putting fans on the bottom of the rad. I didn't need to go that far but I also needed to put my new PSU in and to do this, I have to jiggle them both about as there is no room with the PSU and rad.
 
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