2l duratec mondeo throttle sticking

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30 Oct 2012
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the throttle is slow to return to tickover sticks at about 2000 but does return eventuraly. after checking cables which seem ok, i read a post about possable idle control valve i`ve taken this off and cleaned with carb cleaner but still the same. also had a look for any split pipes but nothing obvious although i`ve not delved to deep looking. ( wouldn`t a split pipe cause the the tickover to be erractic all the time though ?? ) it runs ok and ticks over ok when it returns. also i pulled a couple of connector blocks off trying to eliminate things and the managment likght is on now, i`ve heard if you disconnect the battery for 30 mins this could cure it ??. any ideas / help will be gladly recieved. tony
 
It's the same on my focus. I am 99% sure it will be the throttle position sensor that will either need cleaning or replacing.
 
I notice my Focus tends to have high revs when it's supposed to be idle when it is cold or hasn't been used for a while, has always sorted itself out after a couple of minutes driving though.
 
It's the same on my focus. I am 99% sure it will be the throttle position sensor that will either need cleaning or replacing.

thanks for the quick replys, i`ve googled the throttleposition sensor, so i know what i`m looking for and will check it out tomorrow. tony
 
well i`ve had the tps off today it looked in goo d nick gave it a clean also the butterfly valve on the air intake. still sticking:confused:. not sure about a air leak cause it would be irractic but it`s a smooth tickover once it returns to about 1000rpm after about 2/3 secs. is there anyway of testing the idle control valve just to rule it out without forking out for a new one?? cheers tony
 
thanks for the reply, i cleaned the icv first it looked ok but wondering if you can test these so i can rule it out without paying £30 for a new one. cheers tony
 
ok just thought i`d post up an conclusion to this thread just in case anyone has similar problems. the problem was the pipe under the inlet manifold that you can bearly see nevermind get to, i`m a fairly conpetempt mechanic however more old school, and working away all week my weekends are dear to me so it went in to get sorted, 5hrs labour and £45 for the pipe.can`t seem to able to post a pic but it`s about 6 inches long and bent into a kind of s shape, hope this helps somebody and thanks for the replys.. tony
 
5hrs labour? :eek:

Are you 100% sure It was what the garage diagnosed? I would still put my money on the throttle body being dirty which can cause delays with the ECU, which then causes the engine to idle around 1.8-2k revs for a few seconds before dropping down to normal idle revs. This takes around 100-150 miles after cleaning for the ECU to notice this and then sort it self out.

How many miles did you do after cleaning the TB?

Really couldnt see it being anything to do with the exhaust system on te Duratec.
 
5hrs labour? :eek:

Are you 100% sure It was what the garage diagnosed? I would still put my money on the throttle body being dirty which can cause delays with the ECU, which then causes the engine to idle around 1.8-2k revs for a few seconds before dropping down to normal idle revs. This takes around 100-150 miles after cleaning for the ECU to notice this and then sort it self out.

How many miles did you do after cleaning the TB?

Really couldnt see it being anything to do with the exhaust system on te Duratec.

I must have done about 70 miles after cleaning the parts and no different. The garage i trust and they sprayed carb cleaner down onto the pipe under the inlet manufold while iwas there and you could hear the differene. They gave me the old pipe which had split and everything is running normal so i'm sure that was the problem. Maybe 5hrs labour i'm not sure but it's done. Not sure what the pipe did. But if anyone has similar symptons check that pipe before buying valves or sensors. Hth. Tony
 
is there anyway of testing the idle control valve just to rule it out without forking out for a new one?? cheers tony

To accurately diagnose an ICV you really need a scantool (or a scope) which will display the waveform signal sent from the ECU to the stepper motor that's inside the valve.

On a Ford it will look something like:
29352_10151308407227889_2036698769_n.jpg


When the ICV starts to fail, the waveform will either be broken up or stretched out horizontally along the time axis due to it not responding quickly enough.
First point of call though is to check the wiring & that the ecu itelf is earthed properly as the valve movement is controlled by the ecu constantly switching the polarity of the current going to the motor. Just like how an electric window goes up/down with only one motor to operate it.
 
ok just thought i`d post up an conclusion to this thread just in case anyone has similar problems. the problem was the pipe under the inlet manifold that you can bearly see nevermind get to, i`m a fairly conpetempt mechanic however more old school, and working away all week my weekends are dear to me so it went in to get sorted, 5hrs labour and £45 for the pipe.can`t seem to able to post a pic but it`s about 6 inches long and bent into a kind of s shape, hope this helps somebody and thanks for the replys.. tony

This is a problem I am sure I have heard of through these very forums before, that pipe is a long old way down!
 
UIM breather hose

Edit: sorry ignore that^, i thought i was in the ST220 thread for a second, talking about the common breather hose problem.
 
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