Road Cycling Essentials

rogan · 11 Feb 2013 at 14:00

Getting rid of it surely means that most countries will never bother trying then?

seems a bit backwards to me. Kill it from the olympics and thats it for track cycling in the public eye worldwide.

George Hincapie · 11 Feb 2013 at 14:09

rogan said:
Getting rid of it surely means that most countries will never bother trying then?

seems a bit backwards to me. Kill it from the olympics and thats it for track cycling in the public eye worldwide.

Not necessarily. Remove Olympic road cycling and it would have zero impact on the sport. Track cycling just needs to develop non-Olympic events. Some exist already, so it just needs more structure and thought.

Kimi · 11 Feb 2013 at 14:57

I hope they dont take it away, i was planning on going for gold in Rio

[DOD]Asprilla · 11 Feb 2013 at 14:58

Kimi said:
I hope they dont take it away, i was planning on going for gold in Rio

Oh, don't worry; it's still going to be in Rio.

I look forward to seeing you there.

Kimi · 11 Feb 2013 at 15:31

Nice, could do with some more silverware

uniQ · 11 Feb 2013 at 16:25

How much difference does crank length really make?

I have an 82cm inseam. Calculators suggest I should be looking at 170mm.

My Canyon had a 170 & the Ti has 175. Can't honestly say I notice much (any) difference.

Also need to make the dreaded Double/Compact decision. Canyon was switched to Compact and Ti is a Double running an 11-28 Ultegra Cassette and again haven't found a hill I can't get up on this setup. And I mostly ride hills when I go out.

I know general consensus on here is Compact. However I found somewhere selling the DA 9000 gruppo w/ Double going for £100 less than anywhere else sells the compact group.

Saytan · 11 Feb 2013 at 16:31

uniQ said:
How much difference does crank length really make?

I have an 82cm inseam. Calculators suggest I should be looking at 170mm.

My Canyon had a 170 & the Ti has 175. Can't honestly say I notice much (any) difference.

Also need to make the dreaded Double/Compact decision. Canyon was switched to Compact and Ti is a Double running an 11-28 Ultegra Cassette and again haven't found a hill I can't get up on this setup. And I mostly ride hills when I go out.

I know general consensus on here is Compact. However I found somewhere selling the DA 9000 gruppo w/ Double going for £100 less than anywhere else sells the compact group.

split the difference and get a 172.5

A compact setup can be lighter but a double has extra man points. Also, £100 is a fair old wedge.

I sometimes find my 39-25 a bit stiff (namely on any decent sized hill at the mo - i'm so shonky) but i'd probably find a 34-25 twiddlingly low - a 36 might be quite good though

grudas · 11 Feb 2013 at 16:44

ive got a triple on mine.. i haven't used any of them bar the biggest one yet.. double would be perfect in my eyes.

Kimi · 11 Feb 2013 at 16:54

When i bought my Ultegra groupset i went for 172.5 and the standard double, ive got compact on my Canyon and find i spin out on some hills

One More Solo · 11 Feb 2013 at 16:54

Compact all the way for all but the pros IMO. If you're worried about spinning out a 50t chainring then just get an 11t cog for the back. Having said that, 50x12 was more than enough even on alpine descents for me and I like speed. The 34t front ring gives you so much extra range for the steep stuff.

Saytan · 11 Feb 2013 at 16:57

I tend to notice compact riders using horrible combinations like 50-25 a lot

Kimi · 11 Feb 2013 at 16:57

Thats true, an 11 on the back would have done me, the 12 i just rip up to quick, my friend has an 11 and i had a go on his bike and it was so much more fun to power down the same stretch, but faster

uniQ · 11 Feb 2013 at 17:12

Saytan said:
split the difference and get a 172.5

The Double comes with a 172.5 so seems like a good call.

A compact setup can be lighter but a double has extra man points. Also, £100 is a fair old wedge.

Exactly, I think If I found I was struggling on the hills a compact could be worth the extra. That £100 could go towards the cockpit or a bike fit too.

I sometimes find my 39-25 a bit stiff (namely on any decent sized hill at the mo - i'm so shonky) but i'd probably find a 34-25 twiddlingly low - a 36 might be quite good though

I found the 34-28 to be pretty ridiculous on the Canyon, favouring the 24 for most hills inc Dundry etc

Vonhelmet · 11 Feb 2013 at 17:43

Heh. I still come across hills I can't get up on 34/30.

Saytan · 11 Feb 2013 at 18:45

Vonhelmet said:
Heh. I still come across hills I can't get up on 34/30.

once it gets down to walking pace i actually find walking more comfortable.

Heresy i know...

[Damien] · 11 Feb 2013 at 18:48

Vonhelmet said:
Heh. I still come across hills I can't get up on 34/30.

I'll lend you my 36/27 if you want

Edit: Ooh, check me out!

Saytan · 11 Feb 2013 at 18:52

I once accidentally took a new-to-me bike out with 42-23 as my climbing gear.

Luckily it was a pretty flat ride.

Thomas. PLease. · 11 Feb 2013 at 19:05

Vonhelmet said:
Heh. I still come across hills I can't get up on 34/30.

Must be able to pick up tv signals with a gear that big on the back!

Vonhelmet · 11 Feb 2013 at 19:13

Saytan said:
once it gets down to walking pace i actually find walking more comfortable.

Heresy i know...

I'm the same, to be honest. Once it gets slow enough that I feel I'm going to fall off for sheer lack of speed I tend to give up. I don't often get beyond second to bottom, which I think is a 28.

Thomas. PLease. · 11 Feb 2013 at 19:27

Vonhelmet said:
I'm the same, to be honest. Once it gets slow enough that I feel I'm going to fall off for sheer lack of speed I tend to give up. I don't often get beyond second to bottom, which I think is a 28.

What sort of grades are you getting to that speed on? Got any strava segments?