CPU cooler help - High profile RAM worries

The only problem with Phanteks mount is most people assemble and tighten the base mount without attaching the crossbar... and if the extra space allowed for things to assemble stacks up the crossbar screws may not line up with their threaded holes when you put the cooler on.

If all pieces are assembled including crossbar but without cooler and than tightened the crossbar screws are obviously lined up properly. Remove the crossbar, mount it on cooler, trial fit cooler to be sure all is right, and THAN apply TIM and mount.

May take a little longer but so much easier and less stressful then having to fight to get screws started with cooler rocking around and hoping the TIM seat will survive.. :D
 
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Cool. Well I think the K2 has 4-pin PWM connectors, so should be able to adjust its speed according to CPU temp, right?

I don't know is the NH-D14 would work with my mono that well with its 3-pin connectors, or at least I don't want to risk it. Plus I don't like the colour.

I'm thinking K2 Mount Doom. I'm anxious about purchasing at as I've never bought a cooler before. Do you guys definitely think it will clear the Patriot Vipers?

Does it come with everything I need or do I need to purchase thermal paste etc?

Is there anything I should do when fitting the cooler? Do I need to clean the CPU surface or anything?

Thanks again to all, really helpful.
 
K2 fits fine and performs the same as a D14, but with the benefit of PWM fans.

It comes with everything you need, including paste which works well enough. If you really want to drop 2°C or so, grab some Gelid GC extreme paste.

Use arcticlean or some isopropyl achohol to clean the paste off the cpu, or just wipe it with some kitchen roll if you're not that anal :p
 
I might not get the Gelid GC extreme paste, as that might push the price up a fair bit.

Might also just wipe the CPU with kitchen roll. It's only had the stock cooler on for a few weeks.

Does the K2 run quite quiet compared to the NH-D14, or is there not much in it?

If I have to move the front fan up to clear the Patriot Vipers should I do that or move the fan to the back?
 
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Thanks again guys. I went for a NH-D15. The first fan has to be slightly raised due to my Patriot Viper RAM. Think it's worth trying to pull the heatsinks off of those?

Can't overclock over 4.4GHz withought temps tipping over 80C however. 1st time so might be making mistakes I guess. If anyone wanted to advise on my setup I started a thread regarding my overclock (am I allowed to link to other threads?).

Do you think GPU and RAM overclocking will help with video and animation work much, or not worth even trying?

Thanks!
 
Thanks again guys. I went for a NH-D15. The first fan has to be slightly raised due to my Patriot Viper RAM. Think it's worth trying to pull the heatsinks off of those?

Can't overclock over 4.4GHz withought temps tipping over 80C however. 1st time so might be making mistakes I guess. If anyone wanted to advise on my setup I started a thread regarding my overclock (am I allowed to link to other threads?).

Do you think GPU and RAM overclocking will help with video and animation work much, or not worth even trying?

Thanks!

Raising the fan has little effect on cooling.

Without knowing what your system is it's hard to say why you are getting 80c, but quite possible it's because case is not flowing heated exhaust out and it is contaminating the cool intake air going to D15.

You might find this helpful
Case airflow and cooling is not hard to do but can be time consuming.
Setting up the case for optimum cooling is often the hardest and most time consuming part of a build... And often the most neglected.
  • There is much more to cooling than good cases and good CPU / GPU coolers. Add the fact that many GPU's make more heat than CPU means getting that heat out of the case and keeping a cool airflow to components can be a challenge.
  • There must be more air flowing through case than component fans are using. If the CPU cooler uses 70cfm and GPU uses 80cfm fans we need 180-220cfm.
  • Cases, especially those with filters, usually benefit from fans with higher static pressure ratings than stock fans... "cooler" fans instead of "case" fans.
    Intakes are typically have more restricted than exhaust because of air filters, more restrictive grills, HDD cages, etc.
  • I prefer more intake than exhaust. And don't confuse number of fans with amount of airflow... or airflow with airblow
    • airflow is flowing cool air from intake to component and flowing hot air from component out of case without the hot air mixing with the cool air.
    • airblow is lots of fans blowing air with some of hot air from components mixing with cool air making it warmer resulting in warm air not cooling components as well as the cool air will.
  • Putting fans in case as intake and/or exhaust is only the first step. These fans only move air in and out of case.
  • This does not mean heated air is not mixing with cool air.
  • Nor does it mean cool air is going to where it is needed.
  • Getting the air to flow inside of case properly is even more important. We still need to manage where the air flows inside the case. We can do this several ways; deflectors, more intake fans.. & exhaust fans, removing PCI slot covers, removing vent grills, removing HDD cage, using fans with higher pressure/airflow, building ducts to or from CPU/GPU cooler, etc.
  • Using a remote temperature sensor to monitor what air temps are is the key to finding out where the cool air is flowing and knowing heated air is not mixing into it. By monitoring this we can than make changes to get airflow the way we want it.

How to monitor air temperature different places inside of case:
  • A cheap indoor/outdoor thermometer with a piece of insulated wire and a plastic clothspin works great.
  • Made up with floral wire and tape. We don't want anything to short out with metal. ;)
    e65759c3-fbf9-414f-9f1f-f5941d540397_zps2fe90c77.jpg
  • Clip and position sensor where I want to check the temp. Make it easy to see what the air temp going into components actually is relative to room temp. ;)
  • When system is working air temps going into coolers will be 2-3c warmer than room.. up to about 5c is okay.
 
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