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Ok here is what i need to know, i have a XSPC D5 setup with a raystorm cpu block, and a 360 EX rad, with 1/2 to 3/4 tubing i think, im guessing another 240 rad would be needed to help cool the GPU
the way im planing it is from res to cpu, to EX360 rad to gpu to RX240 back to res, kinds new to water cooling but think this would be up to the job, do you think?
Im not certain that il bother, but is i do then that the road il use
Okay so when I got in from work I ran four tests on my rig to use after for comparison (Heaven, Valley, 3Dmark 11, 3Dmark new. I then set about draining the loop and swapping over the cards.
To kick things off my rig comprises of the following (important bits):
i7 3820 @4.5GHz
32GB (4x8GB) Crucial Ballistix Low Profile @1666MHz 9-9-9-24
ASUS Rampage IV Gene motherboard
XFX 750W XXX Edition Modular '80 Plus Silver' Power Supply
A couple of SSDs
Windows 8 Pro
My cooling loop in order consists of (listing this as I mention temps):
FrozenQ dual bay reservoir
Serial D5 pumps in EK housing
Thermochill PA160.1 radiator with Corsair SP120 PWM Low Noise High Pressure
The GPU (GTX680 Power Edition has an Aquacomputer GTX680 Lighning block)
EK Supreme HF
XSPC RIVG chipset block
Thermochill PA120.3 radiator with Scythe Kaze Jyuni 800RPM Slipstream x3
XSPC RIVG VRM block
Right here's the benchmarks for the GTX680 PE in my system.
Okay, now I have that basici for comparison (that was with card 100% stock BTW, just doing its thing under water), I got started swapping them and ran straight away into an issue. Note the nice compression fittings that come with the card:
There Swiftech with EVGA logos again, you get a pair of 3/8" and a pair of 1/2", however the 1/2" ones don't fit on the top of the card, they foul against the backplate when you try and screw them in. I solved the problem by using an EK 1/2 barb (which have a smaller base) but I feel that's something of a poor show as people will buy a card that's advertised as coming with fittings and intend to use them (I was).
Anyway all was sorted in the end and the loop filled, it was time to rock, but first an obligatory system pic (WARNING: I am an old school water cooler, I make it work, not look nice through a window, my system has been known to cause nausea in those who like things to be pretty )
The red of the card goes well with the red of the ROG board:
Yes the pumps are on a sponge on a Waynes World DVD, deal with it.
Max temps were as following:
Heaven - 38°
Valley - 39°
3Dmark new - 39°
3Dmark11 - 39°
Highest CPU temp was 58° during the new 3Dmark.
According to GPUz the card boosted to 1123MHz out of the box, so now im gonna try juicing it and then ill rerun the tests however not the new 3Dmark as it makes my PSU sequel like a cross between a dial up mode, a boiling kettle and circular saw lol. I had trouble with it howling a little after playing Minecraft a while and raised an RMA with OcUK but sadly I never bothered to return it as I stopped playing MC and nothing else I used made it howl but OH MY GOD, is it noisey in 3Dmark, like wincing at the noise praying for it to end in case the PSU detonates loud lmao.
Anyway hope any of this is useful to anyone, I understand my results only really shows what happens when you go from a GTX680 PE to a GTX780 HC with this exact system, but /meh
Just out of interest, why go to the time and effort of water cooling, but then leave the cables in such a way that they are restricting air flow and possibly costing you few degrees?
Just out of interest, why go to the time and effort of water cooling, but then leave the cables in such a way that they are restricting air flow and possibly costing you few degrees?
They really don't make a difference, at least not enough to have any impact on temps, for reference the roof has three 800RPM fans voltage controlled by the motherboard, they idle at 500rpm and increase with CPU temp, the front rad has a SP120 low noise PWM which idles at ~450RPM and rises to about 6-700 depending on CPU temp (the fan is rated for a max of 1450RPM but its never got anywhere near that as the CPU has never passed mid 60's, its curved to start coming online just as the roof fans hit full power).
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A couple more numbers, I maxed out the power target and temp sliders (106% & 95c) and raised core clock by 77MHz, this gave a max boost of 1189MHz (compared to 1120MHz stock) and buffed Valley score to 3624 (96 over stock). I then raised the voltage to +38mv and that raised the max boost to 1215Mhz and increased valley score to 3667. Sadly as I have no idea what I'm oding I don't know if this is good and I'm scared to try more until I have fully understood what I'm reading lol.
the more voltage you put through it the hotter it gets so if you can keep it under the tdp your fine. Although at the same time the more voltage you put through it the shorted the lifespan of the chip. generaly speaking software overclocks wont let you push to dangerous levels and you normally need to edit the bios settings to allow you to push further although im not sure what bios the card uses
Awesome looking card, I grabbed the last one on Saturday so hopefully should get it next week, greatly looking forward to replacing my SLI 480 furnaces with this and seeing my overall temperatures drop and performance rise
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however not the new 3Dmark as it makes my PSU sequel like a cross between a dial up mode, a boiling kettle and circular saw lol. I had trouble with it howling a little after playing Minecraft a while and raised an RMA with OcUK but sadly I never bothered to return it as I stopped playing MC and nothing else I used made it howl but OH MY GOD, is it noisey in 3Dmark, like wincing at the noise praying for it to end in case the PSU detonates loud lmao.
