H100 Push/Pull... Any advice

Panos said:
However, seems people are stuck to an idea and refuse to change even if the simple data & maths are there. Bursting bubbles is kinda difficult task.
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Something in your monitoring of the CPU is wrong. Your CPU is NOT idling at 0ºC. The only person in a ' bubble ' here, is you ! :rolleyes:
 
AMD DESIGNED there sensors to have inaccurate IDLE temps in order to have very accurate LOAD temps...

Panos you are not idling at 0c.... It's just basic physics pure and simple.
 
There is no way that a cpu can idle at 17°C lower than room temperature unless you're 8Pack.

The A8-5600K in my other PC showed something similar. You need to adjust the temp offset in your monitoring software to get a more realistic reading.
Set the offset to the current room temp or something. I dunno, it's been a while :D Go google it.
 
I do not boast neither have a bubble. I just stated a fact based on what I see.

Even stated way above on early post that I might have a CPU or motherboard issue.
However, it seem you read half the posts. Either way you all agree that idle temps are faulty, but I haven't see anyone arguing about the load speeds at 48C. Except indeed my CPU is burning at 88C (40 idle + 48 load) at 1.387 volt. (stock)

Which means that since you made the case here, and you are adamant that everything is faulty, sould have a word with OCUK for replacement. Thnx
 
I bet this thread is causing a fair bit of face palming.

No point in trying to estimate real temperature values for ambient and above cooling since they are irrelevant if we know the safe limits using the temperature the sensors give us. The sensors are designed so that the throttling temperature is more accurate but we shouldn't be aiming to stay just under throttling temps.

Fan wise, you don't need push pull if your original set of fans are good enough. I would rather spend the money elsewhere or on a better cooler than throw more fans than it needs. the Corsair h100i is thin but has high fpi so needs high SP fans but it is not like there aren't a number of adequate fans available anyway. I can understand going push pull if you were benchmarking for that extra degree or two but for 24/7 performance, an extra set of fans on top of a decent set is IMO just not worth the cash or the noise or even the extra space for an extra few degrees. If you gain much better temps by adding a set of fans, your original set just wasn't all that good.

Push pull discussions use to come up so often, i have copied a quote from our OCuk WCing guru just for an occasion such as this.

rjkoneill said:
Push pull is a waste of time.
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Many extensive reviews show Push/Pull with gains over just Push or Pull.

What's the source of the "Waste of time" comment?

Considering people spend £££££££££££ on cooling for a "few extra degrees" by changing to better Air/Closed loop/Custom loop cooling it seems pretty silly to slate push pull for 'only' gaining a few degrees, seeing how cheap fans are.
 
Push/Pull is not a waste of time.... Push/Pull with my fans at 7v produce the same temps are either push or pull when the fans are at 12v.

So I get the same performance but half the noise..
 
Sin_Chase said:
Many extensive reviews show Push/Pull with gains over just Push or Pull.

What's the source of the "Waste of time" comment?

Considering people spend £££££££££££ on cooling for a "few extra degrees" by changing to better Air/Closed loop/Custom loop cooling it seems pretty silly to slate push pull for 'only' gaining a few degrees, seeing how cheap fans are.
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Hardly 'slating' push/pull, just saying if i had an extra 20 quid to spend, my money would go on a better quality radiator or a larger AIO loop. If i slapped on an extra set of fans to my 240+360 rad loop, the difference is so marginal, that unless i am running prime, my temps are the same. Even with prime running, i go from 42 under load to at the very most 40. It may be different for people with much less radiator in their loops because water temps are higher but I am doubtful to any practical performance gain when using large loops, sure temps may be slightly lower but in a big loop with many radiators, its not going to give you much (if any) of an advantage overclocking wise.

The quote source you can find by clicking the 'view post button' next to the name of the quotee. It was a reply to a question about the performance of push/pull on the 240mm OCuk AIO cooler, which i thought is pretty relevant since performance wise it is not far off the h100i.
 
Avenged7Fold said:
Hardly 'slating' push/pull, just saying if i had an extra 20 quid to spend, my money would go on a better quality radiator or a larger AIO loop. If i slapped on an extra set of fans to my 240+360 rad loop, the difference is so marginal, that unless i am running prime, my temps are the same. Even with prime running, i go from 42 under load to at the very most 40. It may be different for people with much less radiator in their loops because water temps are higher but I am doubtful to any practical performance gain when using large loops, sure temps may be slightly lower but in a big loop with many radiators, its not going to give you much (if any) of an advantage overclocking wise.

The quote source you can find by clicking the 'view post button' next to the name of the quotee. It was a reply to a question about the performance of push/pull on the 240mm OCuk AIO cooler, which i thought is pretty relevant since performance wise it is not far off the h100i.
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+1
 
is it better to have the fans plugged into the pump or plug it into the psu directly (obs not directly but with a fan adapter)?
 
joelk2 said:
is it better to have the fans plugged into the pump or plug it into the psu directly (obs not directly but with a fan adapter)?
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Entirely depends on your kit.

If you have no other sources of PWM/Fan Speed Control do it off the pump.

If you have a fan controller use that.

If you want fixed speed fans then you can either run off the PSU or the Motherboard (Either in conjunction with a resistor for low speed application or not)
 
Avenged7Fold said:
Hardly 'slating' push/pull, just saying if i had an extra 20 quid to spend, my money would go on a better quality radiator or a larger AIO loop. If i slapped on an extra set of fans to my 240+360 rad loop, the difference is so marginal, that unless i am running prime, my temps are the same. Even with prime running, i go from 42 under load to at the very most 40. It may be different for people with much less radiator in their loops because water temps are higher but I am doubtful to any practical performance gain when using large loops, sure temps may be slightly lower but in a big loop with many radiators, its not going to give you much (if any) of an advantage overclocking wise.

The quote source you can find by clicking the 'view post button' next to the name of the quotee. It was a reply to a question about the performance of push/pull on the 240mm OCuk AIO cooler, which i thought is pretty relevant since performance wise it is not far off the h100i.
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That's fair enough, but the context of this thread is the H100. An extra £20 wont get you a custom loop :D

Clearly if you are starting form scratch and could invest push/pull fan money into better base rad/blocks/pump then you will get more for your money.
 
Sin_Chase said:
Entirely depends on your kit.

If you have no other sources of PWM/Fan Speed Control do it off the pump.

If you have a fan controller use that.

If you want fixed speed fans then you can either run off the PSU or the Motherboard (Either in conjunction with a resistor for low speed application or not)
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thanks, no fan controller so will go with the pump (for now)
 
Btw guys, was the damn motherboard. (990FXA-UD3 rev 1) :o

Reflashed the F10A BIOS, cleared the DMI saves, and now idles between 19-20 and 48C at 100% load (IBT or Prime95). While the usual 3-5 second spike to ~58C-60C still exists when those programs kick in.

It stopped also the damn stock voltage fluctuation.
Phew you had me worried :o

Accept my apologies for any grievance :D
 
Panos said:
Btw guys, was the damn motherboard. (990FXA-UD3 rev 1) :o

Reflashed the F10A BIOS, cleared the DMI saves, and now idles between 19-20 and 48C at 100% load (IBT or Prime95). While the usual 3-5 second spike to ~58C-60C still exists when those programs kick in.

It stopped also the damn stock voltage fluctuation.
Phew you had me worried :o

Accept my apologies for any grievance :D
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No problem Panos. Glad you got to the bottom of it. :)
 
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