which planet x carbon wheels?

[Disco Boy]

I have a new bike on the way to me

A BMC Roadracer SL01 105
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bmc/roadracer-sl01-105-compact-2013-road-bike-ec043699#features

As you can see, it comes with distinctly average wheels and tyres, the Mavic Aksium S WTS. This, coupled to the fact that my mum has the Ultegra version of this bike from 2011, which has nicer wheels as well as a nicer gruppo, means that I am in need of a wheel upgrade. (plus the bike is free to me, so I have the budget)

First, I was thinking of getting some handbuilt, shallow alu wheels from wheelsmith.co.uk, then I was taking a look at their carbon offerings. I realised that they use gigantex rims, the same as planetx.

I took a look at the planetx, and I like them because they have aluminium braking surfaces, gigantex rims and novatec hubs (so they can be rebuilt, unlike factory wheels) and they offer a warranty, unlike ebay Chinese jobbies. The reason I liked the idea of handbuilts from wheelsmith was that they could be re-built etc. easily, and planetx seem to offer this, whilst offering a faster (read: more blingy) wheel.

So it's between two wheelsets + a wildcard. The wildcard being a wildcard because maybe they're a bit extreme?

1) Planet X CT45 Carbon Clincher Wheelset : http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPXF45C/planet_x_ct45_carbon_clincher_wheelset

23mm wide & 45mm deep
Front - 825g, Rear - 976g - 1801g
£450

2) Planet X 52mm Carbon Clincher Wheelset : http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPX52CCL/planet_x_52mm_carbon_clincher_wheelset

Front: 821g - Rear: 975g - 1796g
19.5mm wide & 52mm deep
£400

WILDCARD: Planet X 60mm Carbon Clincher Wheelset - http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPX60CCL/planet_x_60mm_carbon_clincher_wheelset
Front: 831g - Rear: 979g - 1810g
60mm deep

So I guess my questions are:
1) are the actual weights all going to be as similar to eachother as the claimed weights are? I'm surprised that the 60mms are so similar to the others
2) on the flat, wide45 vs 52 vs 60, what do you think?
3) in a crosswind*, how much worse are each of them than a normal rim?
4) overall thoughts?

*caveat, I don't go out in massively high winds. Plus I can always swap for my Fulcrum 5s if need be.

My riding will be medium pace club & solo runs (18-20mph average) and sportives. No racing. And my weight is between 75-80kg.

 

[One More Solo]

You'd be better off with lighter wheels. If you must have carbon then tubs are the way forward.

 

[[DOD]Asprilla]

You'll only gain any advantage from deep aero wheels when you get to about 22mph, so it's worth thinking how much time you spend above that limit.

I had Reynolds Assaults. They looked fantastic and the wooshing sound was great.

Unfortunately, they were heavy and very, very stiff. You will feel every bump and crack in the road. Carbon wheels are like that. I sold mine after a year. Whilst they looked great I didn't really have any use for them.

Instead I've got numerous alloy hand builts that ride much better.

 

[Disco Boy]

I'm thinking maybe of:
IRD Aero rims // Wheelsmith 295g sealed hubs // Sapim CX-Ray spokes // Sapim nips. 1450g depending on spoke count.
£454 from wheelsmith.

 

[touch]

I would always choose a heavier aero wheel over a lightweight wheel.

I dont agree that you only notice the difference at 22mph, i think it's more like 14-15mph.

This article has some good explanation of the benefits of aero vs weight. If you dont want to read all the sciency stuff, this quote sums it up:

So, what do all these numbers mean? It means that when evaluating wheel performance, wheel aerodynamics are the most important, distantly followed by wheel mass. Wheel inertia effects in all cases are so small that they are arguably insignificant.

Deep rims are a struggle in crosswinds though. Once you get used to it you start to anticipate where things like gaps in hedgerows are going to give you a gust from the side and you learn to deal with it.
The 52mm planetx wheels are very similar to my cosmic carbones which i really like but i'd probably go for the wider 45mm wheels given the choice.

 

[[DOD]Asprilla]

Wheelsmith hubs are a variation on the Bitex mass produced Chinese hubs. They are OK, but not sealed very well. Good for summer, not so good for winter. IRD Aero rims are re-branded Kinlin rims if you want to look for more reviews (can't tell you which exactly but Kinlins are usually named after the weight).

Are those the 465g Cadence Aero rims? Velocity A23 and H Plus Son Archetypes are both probably lighter and better for the same money. They are also both wider which gives a better ride.

I've got CX-Ray spokes connecting Chris King R45s to H Plus Son Archetypes. I wouldn't send that much money on spokes again. They look nice, but offer no tangible benefits for what's a lot of money.

Have a look at Novatec D711/712 SB hubs as an alternative as they are a well regarded alternative to something like Hope Pro 3s (which are excellent and very well sealed for UK weather).

 

[Calpol]

You'd be better off with lighter wheels. If you must have carbon then tubs are the way forward.

Most of the advice I have read regarding deeper rims is ^^this. 50mm carbon clnchers have some issues that are well documented and relate to their braking efficiency and ability to disperse heat without warping the rim. Next year I think I might consider to carbon tubs. there are so many now available cheaply from China that they almost become a disposable item. If you do your research in velobuild.com, roadbikereview.com and weightweenies then you will learn which suppliers are the best to consider.

Going the tub route means that you will be able to achieve a set of wheels that are lighter then most clinchers, give a better ride and have less issues relating to braking. Why do you think all the pro's use tubs?

The P/x ones are ok for looks but I am not convinced that they offer a better riding experience than your Fulcrum 5s.

 

[One More Solo]

I just think carbon fairing wheels are nonsense really, they're heavy, expensive and don't gain any structural benefit of the carbon itself.

 

[Thomas. PLease.]

I'd agree. I had a set of the 60mm Planet X Clinchers and they sucked in my opinion, ended up selling them pretty soon after and going back to some fulcrum racing 1's, which were incidentally much faster.

Sure they look nice but were just plain heavy. The lighter the better in my opinion. I've also got a set of very lightweight carbon tubs now which are so so much better. Harsh to ride but if its speed you're after they're sensational. Can't wait till summer comes around again and I can spec my bike for speed!

With regards to crosswind I agree with touch. It's something you learn to cope with in all but the most severe gusty conditions.

 

[InQ]

I'd either go;
Handbuilt with an Archetype rim and the best hubs you can get for your budget. *
Shimano RS81 £350 at Merlin with free cassette (get the 11sp 6800 cassette and sell for £40?).
Campagnolo Zonda £275 (Wiggle will pricematch bike-discount.de apparently)

I have DA9000 C24's and they are sublime, light, quick and comfortable.


* I've read a few negative things about Wheelsmith this last few months so would have me thinking twice about using him (i've emailed him in the past and he did seem fine with his replies to be fair). thecycleclinic (Malcolm) who posts regularly on Bikeradar is someone i would use instead:-
http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk/Whe...e_wheelset/h_plus_son_archetype_wheelset.html

 

[oli collett]

Going the tub route means that you will be able to achieve a set of wheels that are lighter then most clinchers, give a better ride and have less issues relating to braking. Why do you think all the pro's use tubs?

As I've pointed out before, it's not true that all the pros use hubs, as clinchers can offer lower rolling resistance. Is it really worth it given the issue of tyre cost and what happens if you get a puncture?

 

[Saytan]

how's your flexibility? is your riding position aerodynamically efficient?

I see a lot of aero wheels being ridden around by people whose riding position borders on hybrid.

 

[Disco Boy]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I went for RS80 C50s in the end, £360 delivered!

 

[touch]

Most of the advice I have read regarding deeper rims is ^^this. 50mm carbon clnchers have some issues that are well documented and relate to their braking efficiency and ability to disperse heat without warping the rim.

Are you thinking of full carbon clinchers? All wheelsets linked in the OP have alloy braking surfaces which are much more effective at dispersing heat than any type of carbon wheel.

Going the tub route means that you will be able to achieve a set of wheels that are lighter then most clinchers, give a better ride and have less issues relating to braking. Why do you think all the pro's use tubs?

Tubs dont have less issues with brake heat, they just have different issues.
The heat from braking on a tubular wheel will soften the glue which can lead to the tyre rolling off the rim.

(some) Pros use tubs because they have a car following them around with spare wheels if they puncture.

I went for RS80 C50s in the end, £360 delivered!

I approve.

 

[One More Solo]

As I've pointed out before, it's not true that pretty much all of the pros use tubs, as clinchers can offer lower rolling resistance. Is it really worth it given the issue of tyre cost and what happens if you get a puncture?

Tony Martin used clinchers in a time trial some time ago, other than that very rare instance all pros ride tubs. They are better in every way when it comes to carbon rims. I gather changing a puncture is no worse than clinchers once you get the hang of it too.

 

[touch]

I gather changing a puncture is no worse than clinchers once you get the hang of it too.

Changing it is only part of the problem (which is significantly more difficult and time consuming than changing a tube IMO) it's the cost as well.
A new tube costs £2-3, a new tub costs £50+