New Softwood Floorboards Done Badly - Help!

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Hi folks,

I recently bought a house, a mid-terraced 30s semi, and we needed to replace the existing floorboards in the living room and hallway because many of them were in a very bad condition and we wanted to put insulation down, and it was cheaper to have a whole new lot put down anyway rather than repairing the old stuff.

We used a very, very good builder who was recommended to me and he and his team did an amazing job on the house as a whole, but we're not happy with the floor and I'm after a little clarification from people in the know.

Here are the issues:

1) Basically, it's regular old tradesman's softwood pine floor boards, laid on top of new insulation on top of the wood joists. He put the lot down using screws, not nails, (we asked him, with his recommendation, to use "invisible nails" but apparently after ordering them he discovered they weren't usable with the boards he ordered... not sure why? Too thin maybe?), with screws down every 2/3 of a foot or so down the length of each plank, into each joist. There are TONNES of screws, therefore. They are all down deep enough not to be a problem but they look a bit rubbish.

2) There were gaps between the boards on day 1. He told us this was fine, and expected, and that he'd laid them down with a pound coin in between each board. So this was done deliberately. He told me the gaps and boards in general would "settle" within a month or two, but there has been no change, at least nothing positive. You can actually see, in daylight, the shining silver insulation beneath the boards, between the gaps, really quite obviously. And there's the issue of the kids spilling drinks (or worse..) down the gaps.

3) The gaps vary along each plank - some are wide and taper away and some are quite wide all the way down. Very random. The widest gap, I'd say, is about 1.5 pound coins wide.

4) Some of the boards are actually not level with the adjacent ones, so there are some minor trip hazards (mainly an issue for the kids).

5) The whole floor was apparently sanded twice and varnished once. We had bought, on his recommendation, enough varnish for 3 coats, but he apparently ran out of time for this (fair enough, it was a mad rush to xmas). To me it looks and feels unfinished, so we're looking to add another 1-2 coats.

Is anything from the above list not sounding right? Are these gaps "expected"? What about the levelling issue?

And one query - if we were to leave the whole lot as-is, which we might do if the cost is going to be huge to fix it, can we simply apply a couple of fresh coats of varnish on top of them without re-sanding first? Or must we re-sand?

I just don't understand why there are gaps at all. I'm looking right now at a wood floor in my office and there are zero gaps. I understand that in summer these boards can shrink, but why would you purposely lay them initially with gaps, then? Wouldn't that mean that they'd get even worse?

Really confused about the whole situation.

Thanks in advance! Any advice really welcome.
 
Got any pics? It sounds awful, using screws is normal if it is being covered, but why on earth would you use softwood floorboards and screws then varnish it? Sounds like a real bodge.
 
Should have been nailed if you are using the boards as a finished floor. You should have been more firm with him, you are the boss and should have had it done how you wanted it. I guess all you could do now if they are staying is maybe fill the screw holes to make them less obvious.

As for the gaps, usually you would leave all the timber in the room it will be used in for a few days to acclimatise to the room. I never leave any gap, especially a pound coin sized one! Even after leaving the timber to acclimatise for a few days there will still be excess moisture in the timber as it'll have been stacked up in a cold damp timber yard and is now in a warm dry house. So if they are butted up nice and tight, they will shrink enough to leave a small expansion gap, to stop them cupping in future.
 
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If he didn't let the boards acclimatize and use floor clamps then this is what you get. Shouldn't be any gaps let alone pound size ones. should have either been secret nailed or with ovals then punched home and obviously sanded and varnished. should have been more firm as said, you're the customer.
 
New pine floorboards, overtime usually always shrink, he should never have left a gap in the first place, and as mentioned clamped them up and nailed them, the only positive thing about the screws is, it would be a quicker fix to unwind them and get the gaps closed up and add extra board providing they haven't been driven right into the timber as this tends to split it when winding them out. I think the geezer must have watched a decking video on youtube by the sounds of things =(
 
this all just sounds weird... it sounds like you were expecting a finished real wood floor that would its self be the finished article.

It sounds like he just thought you wanted a new subfloor, not an actual real wood floor. If so, he probably thought you were mad for wanting it a): not screwed b): no gaps and c): varnished. nothing that he has done sounds like the routine for a 'wooden floor' - are you sure he wasn't expecting you to carpet over it or something? is it plausible that he's missed the entire point?
 
I am pondering the same as customs above, it sounds like he thought the floor was to be finished in a different way after he was done.
Screws stop movement if there is something else over the surface.
Anyway... Hmm sounds a bit bleh.
 
Seems strange that he wouldn't pick up on the fact that they wanted it as the finished floor when he was varnishing it though?
 
It's not unusual to leave gaps in solid wood floors. It allows for expansion of the boards with changing moisture levels and also prevents squeaking from the boards rubbing against one another.
The gaps can be left, filled with a sawdust/wood splinter and binder mix or with a sort of filler tape.
 
Hi all! Sorry for the delay in replying - Easter and all that :)

To answer some questions:

1) he definitely knew this was to be a finished floor, with no carpet, and to be sanded and varnished

2) he was adamant that the pound coin was the correct way to do it. Sounds like BS to me

So can I conclude that there should not be gaps?

What reason could he have for not being able to use invisible nails? He said something about the boards being too thin, I think...

I will take a few photos and post them here later tonight when back home.

Thanks for all your input - really appreciated!!
 
You're always going to have a slight gap with softwood T&G as the boards will expand and contract, but to start off with a pound coin sized gap is not the right way to do it imo. If the gaps are large enough that the tongue isn't even sitting in the groove and you can see through then it's not right.

They should be around 18mm thick if they are structural floorboards, but I think the reason you shouldn't just secret nail is because there wouldn't be enough holding the board down with just one nail going into the floor joist, through the tongue. The boards would be more likely to cup and warp and they would creak a lot. If you were laying hardwood boards onto a plywood sub floor you could secret nail. But he should have used nails instead of screws if he knew it would be a finished floor.

As someone else mentioned, with it being screwed down it means it'll be easier to take up if you decide you want it changing. You could always have the boards butted up closer together and then once relayed, sink the screws further down and fill the holes. But this will then make it a nightmare to take it up again :eek:.
 
You're always going to have a slight gap with softwood T&G as the boards will expand and contract, but to start off with a pound coin sized gap is not the right way to do it imo. If the gaps are large enough that the tongue isn't even sitting in the groove and you can see through then it's not right.

They should be around 18mm thick if they are structural floorboards, but I think the reason you shouldn't just secret nail is because there wouldn't be enough holding the board down with just one nail going into the floor joist, through the tongue. The boards would be more likely to cup and warp and they would creak a lot. If you were laying hardwood boards onto a plywood sub floor you could secret nail. But he should have used nails instead of screws if he knew it would be a finished floor.

As someone else mentioned, with it being screwed down it means it'll be easier to take up if you decide you want it changing. You could always have the boards butted up closer together and then once relayed, sink the screws further down and fill the holes. But this will then make it a nightmare to take it up again :eek:.

Cheers Mark! Good to know about the screws. I think we're gonna get the man back in to have a look. My worry is that if he didn't know what he was doing first time around then why would he be any better second time around... But I think he ought to fix this for us for free, since it is such a mess.

That said, I'll try to get a few photos for you guys so you can see for yourselves - I might be making more out of it than necessary.
 
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