Mayhems Pastel - Ice White

Disco_P

Disco_P

Disco_P

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Got an upcoming loop which I had planned to use white fluid for.

Now this stuff is the only thing I can find, which makes me suspicious that white fluid is not necessarily a good idea.

So basically I have 2 questions:

a) Is this stuff going to cause me any problems over another colour/clear?

2) Would it replace the need for biocide/silver coil when mixed with standard de-ionised water?

Loop in case it is important
EK LTX Nickel Plexi
EK FC-780 GTX Ti - Nickel
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30
XSPC AX360
Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT
EK D5 Vario X-Res 140
EK Nickel Compression fittings
EK Nickel plated brass barbs
Alphacool chrome plated brass rotary barbs
 
From experience, Mayhems Ice White/Pastel White has no known issues. I've used it in several of my builds and even mixed it with dyes and not had any troubles. The coolant stays white and doesn't need any addictive's. I ran Mayhems white and Mixed White for about 6 months with no issues and no foreign bodies growing in my reservoir.

If anything just make sure you flush all your watercooling components properly and thoroughly beforehand and avoid using tap water (I always flush using de-ionized water from Halfords).
 
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Pastel is pH sensitive. The closer to neutral (7) your coolant ends up being, the better. Gunk from unclean rads and blocks can cause the pH to dip lower and that can mess things up.
 
The primochill advanced LRT is a great piece of tubing kit! However I noticed it's actually slightly thicker so my compression fittings were a tight squeeze to screw on. I think this extra slight thickness is due to the bending capabilities of this tubing.
 
Do you need to flush, even for brand new components?

The plan was to build the loop ready, do a leak test with good ole halfords deionised water (picked up 5L today) and then drain the loop as best as possible and refill with the white coolant.

Is this a good idea or would you suggest a difference idea?
 
Jay85 said:
The primochill advanced LRT is a great piece of tubing kit! However I noticed it's actually slightly thicker so my compression fittings were a tight squeeze to screw on. I think this extra slight thickness is due to the bending capabilities of this tubing.
Click to expand...

That is kinda reassuring as I heard from a friend that he tried compressions with his build and they just wouldn't stay on so atm I picked up 1 EK compression (my personal favourite for the price) to test and have a basket of 5 ready for when I have tested they work well.

What compressions do you use out of interest?
 
Disco_P said:
Do you need to flush, even for brand new components?

The plan was to build the loop ready, do a leak test with good ole halfords deionised water (picked up 5L today) and then drain the loop as best as possible and refill with the white coolant.

Is this a good idea or would you suggest a difference idea?
Click to expand...

Flushing is useful, especially for new components. Some brands just don't clean up well after manufacturing. I am worried mostly about that Alphacool ST30 in your loop. If you can afford it, get a Mayhems Blitz Pro kit and use it once so you can then have peace of mind for the 3 year life cycle of Pastel.

I can also confirm that the advanced LRT tubing is harder to put the barbs through, especially the colored tubing. I have Bitspower, EK, XSPC and Monsoon compression fittings and the easiest ones were the Monsoon fittings.
 
Im going to chime in, You have to clean your new rads and its "always" best to clean new water cooling gear no ifs no buts. Since day one of water cooling you should always flush and clean your new water cooling system.

Primcohill tubing is quite hard to put over some fittings but its easy when you know how. Get a cup of boiling water and dip the end of your tubing into it for a few seconds to soften it up. Then just slip it over the barb. Some people use hair dryers to do the same thing. Job done :)
 
Mayhems said:
Im going to chime in, You have to clean your new rads and its "always" best to clean new water cooling gear no ifs no buts. Since day one of water cooling you should always flush and clean your new water cooling system.

Primcohill tubing is quite hard to put over some fittings but its easy when you know how. Get a cup of boiling water and dip the end of your tubing into it for a few seconds to soften it up. Then just slip it over the barb. Some people use hair dryers to do the same thing. Job done :)
Click to expand...

This.

I've recently built my first loop and am now kicking myself for not doing earlier - it is so much easier than I had expected.

The cup of boiled water trick for the primochill is a must: Whilst doing a practise loop outside the case I tried with and without just to experiment and the difference is night and day. There is also big difference in how easy it was to get the tubing off the barb once it had cooled down - a gentle pull when hot compared to real force when cold.

Build a practise loop - all it costs you is time and a bit of tubing. Flushing, leak checking and getting used to how tight you need the fittings is all easier when there's no case blocking the light and expensive components to leak all over.

I went with Monsoon fittings and Mayhems Pastel Orange.
 
Disco_P said:
Do you need to flush, even for brand new components?

The plan was to build the loop ready, do a leak test with good ole halfords deionised water (picked up 5L today) and then drain the loop as best as possible and refill with the white coolant.

Is this a good idea or would you suggest a difference idea?
Click to expand...

Disco_P said:
That is kinda reassuring as I heard from a friend that he tried compressions with his build and they just wouldn't stay on so atm I picked up 1 EK compression (my personal favourite for the price) to test and have a basket of 5 ready for when I have tested they work well.

What compressions do you use out of interest?
Click to expand...


I think everyone else has pretty much answered these but yes to flushing every time as you'll save yourself hassle at a later date if there is gunk left in the components, old or new.

As for running it first outside the case, yes you can and it is a good idea if you want to play it safe. However I had never bothered with doing this and always just done the big flush, made sure the components don't leak when sealed and then drained and installed them. I know some people who run there loops outside of the case for a few hours for leak testing, but I think its a little unnecessary. Just do the flush, seal the components when filled and give them a good shake. It its gonna leak, it'll leak when you do the flush.

I use XSPC compression fittings (The older style ones) and they are a tight fit but defo secure the tubing on. Takes a good bit of finger power :p
 
ALL OF THE QUOTES!!
Mayhems said:
Im going to chime in, You have to clean your new rads and its "always" best to clean new water cooling gear no ifs no buts. Since day one of water cooling you should always flush and clean your new water cooling system.

Primcohill tubing is quite hard to put over some fittings but its easy when you know how. Get a cup of boiling water and dip the end of your tubing into it for a few seconds to soften it up. Then just slip it over the barb. Some people use hair dryers to do the same thing. Job done :)
Click to expand...

peterwalkley said:
This.

I've recently built my first loop and am now kicking myself for not doing earlier - it is so much easier than I had expected.

The cup of boiled water trick for the primochill is a must: Whilst doing a practise loop outside the case I tried with and without just to experiment and the difference is night and day. There is also big difference in how easy it was to get the tubing off the barb once it had cooled down - a gentle pull when hot compared to real force when cold.

Build a practise loop - all it costs you is time and a bit of tubing. Flushing, leak checking and getting used to how tight you need the fittings is all easier when there's no case blocking the light and expensive components to leak all over.

I went with Monsoon fittings and Mayhems Pastel Orange.
Click to expand...

Jay85 said:
I think everyone else has pretty much answered these but yes to flushing every time as you'll save yourself hassle at a later date if there is gunk left in the components, old or new.

As for running it first outside the case, yes you can and it is a good idea if you want to play it safe. However I had never bothered with doing this and always just done the big flush, made sure the components don't leak when sealed and then drained and installed them. I know some people who run there loops outside of the case for a few hours for leak testing, but I think its a little unnecessary. Just do the flush, seal the components when filled and give them a good shake. It its gonna leak, it'll leak when you do the flush.

I use XSPC compression fittings (The older style ones) and they are a tight fit but defo secure the tubing on. Takes a good bit of finger power :p
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the advice and replies peeps.

I have chosen the clear 16/10 primochill. I knew about the heating up business and will be doing it for sure now. And I have plenty of finger power from working with carabiners all day every day.
 
Here is the plan:

Right now I "only" have 5L of coolant and 3m of tubing the play around with. I am past my WC budget so am reluctant to spend much more.
What I was going to do was cut the tubing to fit + a few extra cm's, build the loop outside the case, fill it was the dionised water and run it for a couple of hours. Then I would drain and redo again depending on how much gunk I think it left and how much liquid I used.

When I was happy with everything I would build inside the case (trimming the tube to the exact length) and use the mayhems to do a leak test with loads of paper towels and from there on everything should be gravy?
Does this sound good to you guys?
 
Sounds good to me, cant really think of anything you will or could miss.

Let me know how you get on and if you need anymore help.
 
Ok man, will do. For now though

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