Plasterboard (drywalling) my outbuilding

Solus

Solus

Solus

Associate
Joined
5 Oct 2006
Posts
908
Location
Cardiff
This seems the easiest way to make my outbuilding more presentable (currently brick walled with white masonry paint).

Some areas are small nooks and crannies which I may have a go at rendering, but the vast majority is a long brick wall.

I want to dot and dab, ive looked into the whole method but people seem to tell me I will struggle on my own with full size 2400x1200 12.5mm boards. Are they really that heavy?
 
One full sheet is cumbersome to carry, but if it's already in the room it shouldn't be too bad just to get them on the wall yourself. Carrying them off a van/truck into the place; is where you would need a couple of people per board. :)
 
What about cutting the boards? Fairly awkward without someone else holding it?

Guess I could ask my dad to help out
 
You'd be fine with full size boards, they're cumbersome but not impossible to work with.

Cut your boards, lay flat in front of the wall, apply adhesive, lift board and press on to wall.

Cutting boards is a piece of ****, score and snap.

Dry fixing boards to the ceiling is where you'll need props or a second set of hands.
 
I've found 9.5mm full size wallboards significantly easier to handle than 12.5mm, there was more of a weight difference than I expected - around 25% lighter for the thinner sheets.

I can lift a full sheet of 12.5mm onto the roof of my car without dying though (they are heavy) so you should be fine.
 
Only reason I'm going for 12.5mm is because people recommend it for full board size against brickwork. Otherwise I would use 9.5mm unless you think it's fine?
 
Is it single skin wall. If so build of with a frame that way you can also insulate/damp course

If your Dot n dab'ng onto single skin wall you may find that damp ruins your plasterboard anyhow.
 
Lopéz said:
I can lift a full sheet of 12.5mm onto the roof of my car without dying though (they are heavy) so you should be fine.
Click to expand...
MJgR0VXl.jpg
 
Dont forget to pva the painted walls and let it dry before you put any adhesive on.
9.5mm boards are rubbish to dab with because they are very thin. Thicker boards stay flatter. I used 15mm boards in my outhouse, they are brilliant to dab with.
 
Missionary paint is waterproof, if you don't add a 'key' (pva) you might be able to pull the **** d abs (why is that censored :/ )off the painted wall or they may could come loose over time.
You should pva any wall with any type of paint on it really whether you're skimming over it or dabbing over it.
That what I was taught and have always done anyway.
You may be ok without it. Up to you matey :)
 
Solus said:
I really need to pva beforehand? I wasn't expecting to in all honesty
Click to expand...

Its like £7-8 a gallon. So you might as well wont do any harm.........Unless you use it under tile adhesive... Don't get it from a decorators shop though get it from a builders merchant. Don't know why but my plasterer can always tell when I've not bought from a merchant.
 
I have brick garage that I wouldn't mind plaster boarding out, but it's single skin house brick and has damp in a few places around floor level :-(

What's the correct procedure for dealing with the damp so it doesn't come through?
 
If you have a mate it's fairly easy to Cary 2 12.5mm 8x4 sheets at a time, on your own one at a time is fairly easy but tiring. I have done 20 on my own before. Don't bother with 9.5mm boards.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom