***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0
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Mine has just done the same thing
If the airflow is fine, try dripping a drop or two straight down the atomizer chamber, it may be a wicking issue. if that's working, close the air flow off and take a few primer puffs to get the wicking going. I'd just too mine apart and screwed the atomizer right tight, as I cleaned it this morning.
I won't trust anything if its happening after Chinese NY, I'm Chinese myself and factories over there have MAJOR staff issues after Chinese new year.. lol
Non means that it can't detect the coil, if it's been used for a while it can burn out and snap (or as previously stated not screwed in right) . I've heard vodka is good for cleaning coils and tanks, I've not done it myself as I normally flush it with menthol ejuice or just use a new one.
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Soldato
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You need to lift up the centre pin on your MVP I bet. Look down into the connector on the MVP, there is a round brass thing in there. You need to use something thin and strong to GENTLY a lift that up by a mm or so. Just pry it up gently and slowly. Should sort it out
Soldato
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I don't know where that is and does the fact that it works with another tank not suggest it's the tank that's broken?
Soldato
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Different tanks have slightly different connectors, my Nautilus just didnt work at all on some of my mods
Who wants to spec me an ecig for quitting dirty smoking? 
I would prefer to stay away from anything tasty as I'd inevitably enjoy it and get hooked on it.
End game is to quit completely so these may be a good stepping stone.
Been looking at the V2 kits as they look like a real cig but in carbon fibre for extra coolness
. Any ideas if they're any good?
I would prefer to stay away from anything tasty as I'd inevitably enjoy it and get hooked on it.
End game is to quit completely so these may be a good stepping stone.
Been looking at the V2 kits as they look like a real cig but in carbon fibre for extra coolness
. Any ideas if they're any good?Who wants to spec me an ecig for quitting dirty smoking?
I would prefer to stay away from anything tasty as I'd inevitably enjoy it and get hooked on it.
End game is to quit completely so these may be a good stepping stone.
Been looking at the V2 kits as they look like a real cig but in carbon fibre for extra coolness
Anything that looks like a real cig is generally rubbish and can be more expensive in the long run as the batteries not last that long and the carts are pretty much made for that manufactures e cig with them not lasting as long as a bottle of e juice. I'd spent shed loads with trying to use them in the past and gave up after two/three weeks, they just wasn't cutting it and went back to smoking.
Having said that, I've heard halo e cigs are the best of the cigs look a likes but my recommendation would still be a istick 20w with a nautilus. Flavour aside, you can drop your nicotine level slowly with e juice, as they come in much more nicotine levels or by mixing them to the level that you want, whilst cig a likes will come with set levels.
Your look much cooler with a massive mod blowing clouds than with a carbon cig
EDIT: just seen the helix clone on slow tech.. I may have to pop another order in. Someday my orders will all at once.
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Very good points. Right well considering it's cheaper than my original plan it can't hurt .
Coil headsconfused? Any particular resistance I should get? I assume these are what creates the vapour so a larger ohms would give larger amounts of vapour?
. Coil heads
confused? Any particular resistance I should get? I assume these are what creates the vapour so a larger ohms would give larger amounts of vapour?Very good points. Right well considering it's cheaper than my original plan it can't hurt
Coil heads
No.. The larger ohms the less vapour. If you get 1.6 BVCs (they are better than the non BVCs) your be able to get all 20 watts that the device can give. Thou it's not the best setup, bang for buck IMHO it's the best, it's also the most popular setup.
@ice, this is the crazy tips that RIP uses? https://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10012562/2123900-pom-510-drip-tip-adapter-wide-bore-drip-tip-for
I've just ordered the helix and Dillinger RDAs, some of my orders best start arriving soon, else I'm flying over and having words.
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Soldato
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Thanks for that, They will fit my little boy perfectly! I wanted a red one
Soldato
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Just rebuild my Geyser
It was AWESOME, and then i realised I used the wrong drill bit and the top wouldnt fit on -_- complete waste of time
then the mephisto
Decided to Twist some 24g Gplat
horrible Vape, might be the wicking so will try rewick and see how it is, not getting my hopes up though
Back to the little boy it is
It was AWESOME, and then i realised I used the wrong drill bit and the top wouldnt fit on -_- complete waste of time
then the mephisto
Decided to Twist some 24g Gplat
horrible Vape, might be the wicking so will try rewick and see how it is, not getting my hopes up though
Back to the little boy it is
Lol.. I really don't how you guys vape with such big bore drip tips, I struggle with the one that comes with the subtank..
Looking awesome on the builds..
Soldato
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Basically the hole your tank screws into is a certain depth and the brass centre pin is one of the connections (the thread being the other).
All tanks have slightly different length 510 threads sticking out of the bottom.
If you have centre pin that can move down (like the MVP does) a tank with a longer 510 thread will push that centre pin down slightly lower than the other tank, so when you screw the other tank down the brass centre pin and the 510 connector on the tank don't connect so you get no reading.
Does that make sense? It's hard to explain.
So if you look down that threaded hole, there's a little round brass bit in there, and though it doesn't seem like it at first, if you get something thin and strong like a paperclip or a pin or needle, you can stick it down the side and just gently lever it up, then lever the other side up, and keep going until you've moved it up literally half a mm, or a mm tops. Then when you put your tank back on you should hopefully feel it make contact. Once it makes contact you can pretty much stop screwing. I don't have an MVP here but I have a vision spinner with the same kind of connector. Will pop a picture up in a mo.
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Soldato
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There you go. It's not brass coloured on this one, probably isn't on the MVP either now I come to think of it! That centre pin is connected to a wire on the other side but is just sitting in a rubber grommet. You can't pull it out very far so be careful but there will be a 1mm or so of movement safely. Just lever it up gently from side to side to lift it.
Also be careful you don't accidentally fire the mod while you do it or you'll burst into flames and die.
Nice build there on the geyser rda mark, never seen that rda before, definitely going to have a look at it now 
Edit, though I like the look of it, doesn't look very good as far as dripping juice into it goes, air flow holes right below and no juice well etc.
Edit, though I like the look of it, doesn't look very good as far as dripping juice into it goes, air flow holes right below and no juice well etc.
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By the way, you know I mentioned earlier that I put my dual coil setup back into my mutation x V1 that I customised my self (see here
Mx V2 left, Mx V1 right. (Iv shortned the MX v1 quite a bit so that the air holes align with the coils, as this bad clone didn't to begin with)
Well anyway, im getting the really nice warm vape that I liked from my first dual coil setup in this before I got the MX V2, I mean yeah the MX V2 is great don't get me wrong, but as the air flow is bigger than the MX V2, and because the rda its self is a lot bigger now that iv modified the V1, I think id need to go lower than 0.3 ohms to get a really warm vape from the V2.
I cant seem to reach the same level of heat that I like from the V2 yet, its not the warm creamy vape that I first liked on the V1.
So ill have to work on that, think I need some 22G or possibly 20g to achieve it.
But also at the same time, I definitely need to drill out the air holes on the V1 for the air flow that I liked on the V2.
Such a bad situation, one has one thing I like, the other has the other, and the parts from each one don't work with the other the outter barrel and top cap don't fit each other.
So, my remedy, im going to but another one of each, as I don't want to ruin what I already have. and try modify them to make what I like from the two.
So the perfect RDA from the two would be this (For me).
V2 deck,
V2 top cap (air flow adjuster)
V1 Height
V1 Juice well depth (which is better than V2)
But its not as simple as that as you know
Also, if your thinking, turn up the watts on the v2 for the warmer vape? I don't know why, but I cant seem to do that without it just frying my wicks and juice with 24g kanthal and 0.3 ohms dual coil, 3mm diameter 7 wrap. 37W or 3.8v is the highest I can really go without it turning to mush,
But the exact same build in the v1, iv got it at 45w and its beautiful even at 4.3v
Mx V2 left, Mx V1 right. (Iv shortned the MX v1 quite a bit so that the air holes align with the coils, as this bad clone didn't to begin with)
Well anyway, im getting the really nice warm vape that I liked from my first dual coil setup in this before I got the MX V2, I mean yeah the MX V2 is great don't get me wrong, but as the air flow is bigger than the MX V2, and because the rda its self is a lot bigger now that iv modified the V1, I think id need to go lower than 0.3 ohms to get a really warm vape from the V2.
I cant seem to reach the same level of heat that I like from the V2 yet, its not the warm creamy vape that I first liked on the V1.
So ill have to work on that, think I need some 22G or possibly 20g to achieve it.
But also at the same time, I definitely need to drill out the air holes on the V1 for the air flow that I liked on the V2.
Such a bad situation, one has one thing I like, the other has the other, and the parts from each one don't work with the other
the outter barrel and top cap don't fit each other.So, my remedy, im going to but another one of each, as I don't want to ruin what I already have. and try modify them to make what I like from the two.
So the perfect RDA from the two would be this (For me).
V2 deck,
V2 top cap (air flow adjuster)
V1 Height
V1 Juice well depth (which is better than V2)
But its not as simple as that as you know
Also, if your thinking, turn up the watts on the v2 for the warmer vape? I don't know why, but I cant seem to do that without it just frying my wicks and juice with 24g kanthal and 0.3 ohms dual coil, 3mm diameter 7 wrap. 37W or 3.8v is the highest I can really go without it turning to mush,
But the exact same build in the v1, iv got it at 45w and its beautiful even at 4.3v
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A pack of 5 BVC coils is normally about £10. And a lot of vape shops stock them. I can get them in 3 locations in Coventry city center. So you should be able to find some in your locale.
A coil last on average 1-2 weeks but if you put too high a voltage into them they will blow. Just like the filament in a lightbulb. If you have not changed the coil from new you should find a spare coil in the box it came in.
Keeping under 10W on the nautilus is a good way to prevent an untimely coil failure, These tanks are not for huge clouds and the coils are very consumable if you don't pay attention to your settings.
Read the manual for the tank while you have the box to hand. It lists the parts by name, and shows you the correct way to change a coil.
On a separate note if your new to vaping and you have picked up an MVP and a Naughty Lass then you are on very solid kit for a starter. It's tempting to turn up the wattage and see what the device can do but if you want to do that then grabbing a rebuild able dripping atomiser (RDA)is the way to go. You can get an RDA for <£10, some 30awg kanthal A1 wire and cotton from a well loved auction site for <£5. Then your on a learning curve that will let you test the limits of your device.
Those RDA's above are advanced variants with advanced coils. Lots of RDA's have 2 posts to screw your coil into, and a very open deck to build on to make it easy. And any old mini screwdriver is perfect as a coil jig.
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A few hours after vaping, iv definitely deciced that I like the warmth (that I get from my coil build) from the mx v1 rda for definite, im guessing because of how short it is after I had modified it,. so for my coil build like this like I mentioned 2 posts above, the mx1 definitely wins, So does the amount of juice this thing holds, I have to drip twice as less as the v2. but also like I say when I want to blow huge super huge clouds, I cant do that because the air flow is a lot more restricted. Don't get me wrong the v1 clouds are big but not as big as the v2.
So gotta wait for slowtech to send me another one of each to modify to see what I can come up with for the juice well depth of the v1, air flow of the v2, but the 4 post deck of the v2, and the v1 height modified by me.
Though I can't stress enough how much not to get a v1 from fast tech as it is a bad clone and won't work outta the box, you gotta modify it a hell of a lot to make it work, maybe that was just a dodgey one I got where the air holes was higher than the connection posts.. Who knows. But the v2 works outta the box straight away but I perfer the v1 now iv modified it but untill iv got a spare v2 I don't mind cutting and drilling into I'll be using the v1 as my main now
So gotta wait for slowtech to send me another one of each to modify to see what I can come up with for the juice well depth of the v1, air flow of the v2, but the 4 post deck of the v2, and the v1 height modified by me.
Though I can't stress enough how much not to get a v1 from fast tech as it is a bad clone and won't work outta the box, you gotta modify it a hell of a lot to make it work, maybe that was just a dodgey one I got where the air holes was higher than the connection posts.. Who knows. But the v2 works outta the box straight away but I perfer the v1 now iv modified it but untill iv got a spare v2 I don't mind cutting and drilling into I'll be using the v1 as my main now
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