The middle rail at the bottom the rod comes out sometimes, but im going to epoxy that in
Does appear to be pretty stable and not bad though, you would probably have to come down quite hard to break it
Multirotor, multicopter and quadcopter discussion - The Drone thread
- Thread starter RomanNose
- Start date
The middle rail at the bottom the rod comes out sometimes, but im going to epoxy that in
Does appear to be pretty stable and not bad though, you would probably have to come down quite hard to break it
ta
Oh well thats the naze now pretty much screwed
Whats the point in soldering these things if the plastic pin holder is just going to melt or the copper terminals are just going to fall off
FFS
Im going to buy a pre-soldered one, should have done that from the beginning
Whats the point in soldering these things if the plastic pin holder is just going to melt or the copper terminals are just going to fall off
FFS
Im going to buy a pre-soldered one, should have done that from the beginning
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Not denying that.
Sodering wires to power board worked fine
I managed to solder the vertical pins just about fine. Although the side ones were a nightmare
Going to order a soldered version tomorrow, if anyone wants this one send me a trust although not sure what you would be able to do
Two of the copper strips have come off on the side. And I don't have the pins that go on side
Yeh just the intricate work that I need to practise on
If the plastic hadn't of melted would have been ok
Thing with soldering is you need a lot of concentrated, well conducted heat in as short a time as possible. You need to make sure that you are heating the item and the pcb pad both at the same time. Also worth getting a good flux pen to help flow the solder as well as possible.
clean iron tip, well heated, small amount of solder applied to the tip, apply the tip to the item and pcb wait just a second and feed solder on to the item to be soldered. You start to run in to issues when you don't have a hot tip, the solder wont flow well because the tip can not heat the items. If you have not heated both parts properly then the piece not heated will act as a heatsink and suck out the heat from the solder you are trying to flow meaning it will dry quickly and without bonding. worse still the solder will bunch on the tip and you keep feeding because you assume you haven't applied enough and then bam a glob of solder usually in places you don't want it or just too much on the joint.
clean iron tip, well heated, small amount of solder applied to the tip, apply the tip to the item and pcb wait just a second and feed solder on to the item to be soldered. You start to run in to issues when you don't have a hot tip, the solder wont flow well because the tip can not heat the items. If you have not heated both parts properly then the piece not heated will act as a heatsink and suck out the heat from the solder you are trying to flow meaning it will dry quickly and without bonding. worse still the solder will bunch on the tip and you keep feeding because you assume you haven't applied enough and then bam a glob of solder usually in places you don't want it or just too much on the joint.
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Yeh.
The soldering iron is great, the tip was new today, just not as easy soldering in small spaces
Work fine on my normal power board and cables
Nevermind
Would rather just not have the fuss to be honest when it comes to soldering very small PCBs, unless it was cheap like few quid.
Everything else ill solder away at
I'll order tomorrow should be here Wednesday then
The soldering iron is great, the tip was new today, just not as easy soldering in small spaces
Work fine on my normal power board and cables
Nevermind
Would rather just not have the fuss to be honest when it comes to soldering very small PCBs, unless it was cheap like few quid.
Everything else ill solder away at
I'll order tomorrow should be here Wednesday then
Soldato
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- 26 Jan 2003
- Posts
- 6,983
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- Surrey
I might well have done just that
On another note a week on Thursday I'm off to a lovely estate in staffordshire with my F550 kit - hoping for some sunsets by the mile long lake they have and aerial shots of the many deer the park there has!
The Grade II listed house is also of interest!
I might well have done just that
On another note a week on Thursday I'm off to a lovely estate in staffordshire with my F550 kit - hoping for some sunsets by the mile long lake they have and aerial shots of the many deer the park there has!
The Grade II listed house is also of interest!
Make sure you get some good footage
Im just about to order my replacement Naze32 from makeitbuildit
Going to get all the pins (including reciever pins) soldered vertically, hoping it all fits ok with the vertical set-up.
Finished my Diatone 250 for the time being. The motor to ESC connections are 2mm bullets at the moment as I wasn't sure about the ESCs and wanted the ability to change them out for some others I have here. If it flies right, I'll solder them in properly.
Full specs:
Diatone 250
Lumenier landing legs
DYS BE1806
Emax 12A ESCs
200mW micro FPV vTx
Pal camera
Mobius camera
FrSky D4R-II in CPPM mode
Naze32 full version with baro and compass
Turnigy Nano-tech 1500mAh lipo
AUW is 519g with the Mobius and 476g without. Should be able to get it under the magic 500g by cutting down the wiring and removing the bullets.
Full specs:
Diatone 250
Lumenier landing legs
DYS BE1806
Emax 12A ESCs
200mW micro FPV vTx
Pal camera
Mobius camera
FrSky D4R-II in CPPM mode
Naze32 full version with baro and compass
Turnigy Nano-tech 1500mAh lipo
AUW is 519g with the Mobius and 476g without. Should be able to get it under the magic 500g by cutting down the wiring and removing the bullets.
Looking good, the ESC placement looks so much neater than mine having them underneath, although I couldnt get them mounted underneath, also wanted to use bullet connectors
Still think I have cut way too much wire off for me to play around with it too much, I may take some of the leccy tape off the wires on mine
Still think I have cut way too much wire off for me to play around with it too much, I may take some of the leccy tape off the wires on mine
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Nice build rilot
One thing I noticed with the 12a emax esc is they need 1150 on the throttle to fire up the motors which is quite a large dead band at the start of the throttle range so I had to adjust the range on the naze to start at 1100 or 1125 on my tri. Throttle is instant now
One thing I noticed with the 12a emax esc is they need 1150 on the throttle to fire up the motors which is quite a large dead band at the start of the throttle range so I had to adjust the range on the naze to start at 1100 or 1125 on my tri. Throttle is instant now
Trust sent
No probs, I did say, will get it out sometime this week for you, if you could reply again to trust with your address
After looking at Rilots pic I want to try and move my ESCS underneath now, although hoping it works, may try on one. If one goes ok I will do the rest.
Will have to do some re-soldering though, and depends if the ESC power cables reach the terminals
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I purchased some wire from maplin but rated at 5a. Will send a pic. Similar thickness and core to the motor and esc wires
That had 10amp and 15amp but these wires were much thicker than my esc cable. Got a meter of black and red
Should this be ok to extend my esc power wires slightly ?
That had 10amp and 15amp but these wires were much thicker than my esc cable. Got a meter of black and red
Should this be ok to extend my esc power wires slightly ?
18 awg is what you want or at least what i used. The motors will be pulling between 6 and 12 amp. Looking at my esc's they use 20awg but i have no idea on the current rating of it. What is the stated thickness?
Quick google throws up this
It depends on what wire your are planing on useing. below is what I use for referance using Silicone Rubber High strand count wire
13AWG Wire
100+ amps
14AWG Wire
50-75+ amps
16AWG Wire
25-74 amps
18AWG Wire
up to 25 amp
20AWG Wire
up To 20 amp
22AWG Wire
up to 10 amp
Your milage may very!
-SNoWJackal
Take it with a pinch of salt though.
Quick google throws up this
It depends on what wire your are planing on useing. below is what I use for referance using Silicone Rubber High strand count wire
13AWG Wire
100+ amps
14AWG Wire
50-75+ amps
16AWG Wire
25-74 amps
18AWG Wire
up to 25 amp
20AWG Wire
up To 20 amp
22AWG Wire
up to 10 amp
Your milage may very!
-SNoWJackal
Take it with a pinch of salt though.
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