Soldato
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Could you use some sort of stripping solution to strip it right back?
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Could you use some sort of stripping solution to strip it right back?
Soldato
- Joined
- 19 Jul 2013
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Or even wet sand it down, mask the threads and insides off primer and paint yourself and clear coat.
some with a super cheap mod do it first I don't have a spare one
some with a super cheap mod do it first I don't have a spare one
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I know how you feel bud. Think it stings more that its a good community and outsiders are trying to make money out of us
Soldato
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I can confirm after a month of using mine everyday with nickel and kanthal wire, it's works perfect.
Screen works like it supposed to (no glitches from the clone!) Have been really impressed with it.
(My own rDNA)
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Lemo 2
They seem to have removed everything I didn't like about the lemo mark 1.. with the exception of why the heck is the air control deck on separate piece of metal! no doubt I'll get suck'd in to get a drop version when it comes out.. It should be nice a tiny. 
Chaps,
Boredom crossed with inspiration has hit me and I am thinking of making my own wooden box mod. Something that looks like the Mellody.
Now, as someone with very little carpentry skills, in fact last time I attempted anything of the sort was around 10 years ago, how difficult would this be? My simple logic has it down as getting a block of wood of rough shape you want the mod, sawing it so it’s in two parts like any mod so you have a lid to take off to get inside(hana mod, etc.). Then hollowing out the two pieces for where the chip, batteries and wires go. Making holes for the buttons and 510 connector and then hooking it all up.
Obviously making something look as beautiful as the melody will take patience and maybe a couple of attempts. But the actually complexity of just getting a working box mod doesn’t, on paper, seem that difficult?
Enlighten me please.
Boredom crossed with inspiration has hit me and I am thinking of making my own wooden box mod. Something that looks like the Mellody.
Now, as someone with very little carpentry skills, in fact last time I attempted anything of the sort was around 10 years ago, how difficult would this be? My simple logic has it down as getting a block of wood of rough shape you want the mod, sawing it so it’s in two parts like any mod so you have a lid to take off to get inside(hana mod, etc.). Then hollowing out the two pieces for where the chip, batteries and wires go. Making holes for the buttons and 510 connector and then hooking it all up.
Obviously making something look as beautiful as the melody will take patience and maybe a couple of attempts. But the actually complexity of just getting a working box mod doesn’t, on paper, seem that difficult?
Enlighten me please.
Balky, your idea seams sounds but also sounds far too simple, im sure hollowing out a block of wood is no simple task without some serious tools, but patients is a virtue and it could be done that way, you will need to do your math and measurements to the tea, for example, if you use a battery sled, are you going single or dual, if minimal size is your goal then making your own battery contacts will save you space, for example, on my dual 18650 mod, had i used a standard dual battery sled, it would have taken more space and it would have require more cutting and grinding and filing and have been harder to fit in the 1550p box, but by making my own and using the box itself for the negative, i saved several crucial mm and also one less wire to solder to the DNA board.
Edit: im toying with a mini mini box mod idea based dual 18500/18350/DNA25/SX350 in the Hammond 1550q which is only 60mm high...
Edit: im toying with a mini mini box mod idea based dual 18500/18350/DNA25/SX350 in the Hammond 1550q which is only 60mm high...
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Thanks UKDTweak, was hoping you would come to my aid. Yes it won't be an easy task but I wouldn't mind something that will take quite a bit of time.
It's ok, I'll measure two thousand times and cut once, hopefully!
Size isn't really an issue, obviously I won't want it too big, but if it all comes off it wil be my pride and joy for at home.
It's very early doors yet, still things I need to get sorted, like how the case will come apart (screws/ magnets/ hinge door, etc.)
EDIT; best of luck with your new project, sounds interesting! I have no doubts you will pull it off like the others!
It's ok, I'll measure two thousand times and cut once, hopefully!
Size isn't really an issue, obviously I won't want it too big, but if it all comes off it wil be my pride and joy for at home.
It's very early doors yet, still things I need to get sorted, like how the case will come apart (screws/ magnets/ hinge door, etc.)
EDIT; best of luck with your new project, sounds interesting! I have no doubts you will pull it off like the others!
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Balky, firstly you need to decide on batteries, this will determine your internal dimensions and from there you can work out the size of wooden block you need to start with. im assuming your going with 18650, but single or dual?
Secondly will it be a mech or regulated, ptentiameter or DNA/SX chip as you will need to account for room for them.
Then the Fire button, are you going with tactile or anti vandal, again this will change the space required as anti vandal need lots more room inside as they are much longer and bigger overall from tactile, if it a mech you will be best using a mosfet so need room for it and the extra wiring.
Im no expert, especially with wooden mods, but id imagine with wood you need a decent wall thickness of at least 3mm for strength?
Secondly will it be a mech or regulated, ptentiameter or DNA/SX chip as you will need to account for room for them.
Then the Fire button, are you going with tactile or anti vandal, again this will change the space required as anti vandal need lots more room inside as they are much longer and bigger overall from tactile, if it a mech you will be best using a mosfet so need room for it and the extra wiring.
Im no expert, especially with wooden mods, but id imagine with wood you need a decent wall thickness of at least 3mm for strength?
Slinxy, im not a mech user myself but have watched a good few reviews and the higher quality ones seem to be able to fit together with no visible joins which looks much better than those that show... in my personal opinion i would prefer no visible joins.
Think a lot is luck especially with clones on the quality of the machining. I have a stingray from FT where you can see the joins and it costs me £8. I have a clone 4nine that cost me £30 and you can not see the joins.
These ?
Ive not had one but quality form MMV is always top notch
Edit: because of the way a thread works you will eventually see the joins IMO
You are correct. 18650, probably just the one.
DNA would be prefered no idea if 30 or 40 though. Not sure if I would use the temp stuff enough.
Vandal fire switche sswitches look nice; I know little about them so will have to research.
Wall thickness was one concern, espcially whlst hollowing out a block.
These ?
Ive not had one but quality form MMV is always top notch
Edit: because of the way a thread works you will eventually see the joins IMO
wow, very nice... I suppose that if it's was blasted or brused the lines would be hidden more.. but I wouldn't be able to live with the join lines.
EDIT: wow, there are some very tempting mods on this site..
http://www.mmvapors.com/product/kainos-18650/
and with the weak euro.. makes it a bargin.
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Ok Balky, well a typical 18650 is 18.5mm, and around 70mm high depending on the model and wrapper, for example a VTC5 is 18.2mm dia where as an Efest 35a is wider, a typical battery sled is about 77mm long and around 19-20mm wide from memory...
So as your using wood you will need a sled, be it custom or bought, if you go with bought you can always sand the edges down to take 2-3mm off it or as i did, pull out the metal tabs and fix them yourself to the box, but your looking at an internal size of 77mm high to be safe and a width allowing 9mm minimum for the DNA chip, 30mm minimum.
With an outer wall of say 3mm Minimum you looking a box thats 80mm high by 35mm wide, now this is near the dimensions of a cloupor mini and will be a Very tight fit for wiring etc but will allow room for a floating 510 such as Veritube or Fat Daddy, but will not fit an Anti Vandal switch, these can be 12 -18mm long so making your width 40mm minimum.
all this though is rough, as i said, im no expert and is only a basic guide to hopefully help you start.
As for DNA30 or 40... i would not bother with the 30 and go either 25 or 40, even if you dont use the temp side of it, the buck is worth it for low power coils. and the price difference is so small anyway, go for the latest...
So as your using wood you will need a sled, be it custom or bought, if you go with bought you can always sand the edges down to take 2-3mm off it or as i did, pull out the metal tabs and fix them yourself to the box, but your looking at an internal size of 77mm high to be safe and a width allowing 9mm minimum for the DNA chip, 30mm minimum.
With an outer wall of say 3mm Minimum you looking a box thats 80mm high by 35mm wide, now this is near the dimensions of a cloupor mini and will be a Very tight fit for wiring etc but will allow room for a floating 510 such as Veritube or Fat Daddy, but will not fit an Anti Vandal switch, these can be 12 -18mm long so making your width 40mm minimum.
all this though is rough, as i said, im no expert and is only a basic guide to hopefully help you start.
As for DNA30 or 40... i would not bother with the 30 and go either 25 or 40, even if you dont use the temp side of it, the buck is worth it for low power coils. and the price difference is so small anyway, go for the latest...
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You are a saint. Even if the box is 80mmx40mmx25mm its much smaller than I was planning on it being anyways.
But thanks for the help, much appreciated, I will do some more research and see if it is within the realms of my abilities. Thanks for the starting point though!
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