Paint for cars?

I wouldn't bother trying unless you have all the proper equipment and knowledge. Judging by this thread then probably not. Anything painted in a garage will generally look pretty bad.
 
If you don't know what "good spray" to use, then you probably wont know how to do a proper full spray, a colour coded front windscreen will be unsafe for road use im afraid.
 
fantasticCG said:
What's a good spray paint for cars please?
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fantasticCG said:
Full respray in my garge
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just to entertain you...

you need to find your nearest car paint supplier. A commmon mixing scheme / manufacturer is MIPA - they're one of the more popular choices for car paints.

You will need a primer of some kind. I use mipa 4:1 acrylfiller HS - colour depends on what your finished colour will be. you will need some HS catylist for that too. Depending ont he bodywork you may need to use a plastic primer or etching primer first.

once you've put that on, sand it all down, wash it with panel wipe and tack rags, then wash it again, tack it again; you may decide you need to key it with scotchbrite between these steps.

when you're ready for colour just spray it on. I prefer solvent based 'base coat' paints from MIPA; ther'es laws against these so check you're on the correct side of it.

once you have done your colour you're gonna want to clear coat it fairly quickly. I prefer MIPA high solid (HS) clearcoat and hardener. 1 light mist coat, let it flash, then one medium / heavy mist coat, let it flash and then one wet coat for the final finish.

you may decide to do a second clearcoat - wait untilt he next day, sand it back abit, clean it, let the solvents flash for a few hours then do the clearcoat process again

The next day wet sand it all down with 2000+ wet/dry then start buffing with a compound like G3, refine it with G10, and then final finish with menzerna FF or other bodyshop safe polish.



*edit
I don't think you should do this
 
I've resprayed a car in a garage, and I've also resprayed a car outside. You can get passable results in those conditions but perfection is extremely difficult to achieve.
 
Kimi said:
If you dont want to go solvent based, Auto Air Colours are great.
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Auto Air paints are not really applicable here; you still can't really get away without solvent based paints at the prep stage and the finish stage so you're only really solving 1 part of the 4 parts of painting a car with waterbased products.
auto-air paints are specificaly for small custom jobs; and anywhere you can buy solvent car paints you can also buy waterborne basecoats which are a lot cheaper than AA. They have a shelf life though.
 
Lopéz said:
I've resprayed a car in a garage, and I've also resprayed a car outside. You can get passable results in those conditions but perfection is extremely difficult to achieve.
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yep, pretty much this - with the exception that if you really y put the time into prep and working clean then the final clearcoat finish can actually be rescued with wetsanding and polishing if it didn't go so well.

it is possible but you need to do a ton of research first - the problem is that there's no real resources to research; sure you can look at data sheets for products but they don't give you instructions. a lot of info online is american too and they use different names for everything.

The best way to go is to find a handful of local paint dealers (there's tons you won't know about on your doorstep) figure out which one has the time of day to help you and then just get a very specific list of products that they stock to cover your prep, colour, finish and polish stages. you wil easily get swamped by the amount of stuff on the market so stick to one specific product line and process.

the initial outlay will be high too; to the point where it's probably cheaper to get your car resprayed at somewhere a bit smaller and...erm... dodgy? as they will do a better job just by being equipped and experienced.
 
R B Customs said:
yep, pretty much this - with the exception that if you really y put the time into prep and working clean then the final clearcoat finish can actually be rescued with wetsanding and polishing if it didn't go so well.
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Yeah, cellulose in particular is relatively forgiving to work with and as long as you lay on enough coats and are willing to put in the effort you can achieve a good finish even if it's a bit rough out of the gun.
 
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