Need a new oven, do I need to be worried about current ratings of connecting cable?

UberTiger

UberTiger

UberTiger

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Our oven has died and I need to replace it but I've never done anything like this before.

I found out that it slides out pretty easily if you undo a couple of screws and most small single ovens seem to be a pretty standard size, so finding a replacement should be easy enough.

The only thing that concerns me is dealing with the electrics.

There's a thick grey cable that connects from the back of the oven to a circular junction box with 3 junctions. One goes to the oven, one goes to the hob and the other I assume leads off to the mains somewhere behind the cabinets.

Do I need to worry about current ratings for the cable or potential differences in power draw between the old oven and the new oven?

Should I get an electrician in to check or is it simply a matter or rewiring the cable as per the pics?

Pics here:
http://imgur.com/a/Mcnxa

Thanks :)
 
If your not competent then you need to get help.

Wattage of old unit ?
Is new unit 2500 watts ?
Look at consumer unit, what size is breaker to oven ?
Measure cable size thickness of current one.

Al.
 
Unless it's a plug in to a socket you should get a qualified electrician to fit it. Did the supplier not offer to install it for you?

Andi.
 
You absolutely do not need an electrician to fit that legally you may do it yourself. Whether or not you can do it yourself is another matter, and something you should think about before going ahead.
 
Depending on the oven you might have to install links between the live terminal but it will tell you that in the manual or the sticker on the back.

You can rung a single oven off a 13 amp plug, you don't need 6mm T+E.

Some single ovens have awful terminal blocks and you will struggle with 6mm cable.
 
Al-Ectrician said:
If your not competent then you need to get help.

Wattage of old unit ?
Is new unit 2500 watts ?
Look at consumer unit, what size is breaker to oven ?
Measure cable size thickness of current one.

Al.
Click to expand...

Looking at the sticker in one of the pics linked in the OP it says 'Max 2500w' on the old one, not sure if that's the actual wattage, can't see any other markings.

Not bought a new unit yet, that's part of my asking here to see if I need to to bear any specs in mind.

Pics of wire here: http://imgur.com/a/1MMMO

Looks like it's 12mm x 6mm

Pics of breaker here: http://imgur.com/a/urqtc

The switch that controls the juice to the splitter box that splits off to feed both the oven and the hob is labelled in the last pic.



The oven hasn't heated very well for a long time, the seal is gone and it's been crapping out half way through cooking. I think it's just time for an upgrade, it's probably 12+ years old.
 
Crapping out as in stops heating? Usually a knackered element or thermal cutout, both of which are a doddle to replace usually.
 
UberTiger said:
The only thing that concerns me is dealing with the electrics.

There's a thick grey cable that connects from the back of the oven to a circular junction box with 3 junctions. One goes to the oven, one goes to the hob and the other I assume leads off to the mains somewhere behind the cabinets.
Click to expand...

Depends on the oven/hob. High end ones can pull a lot of power and need to be on a separate circuit, direct to a consumer unit and without a fuse in the isolator switch (because they can pull enough amps to melt a 13/15 amp fuse). For example, my induction hob is on it's own circuit with a 3 pole 45 amp isolation switch, then direct to the consumer unit.

Although wiring an oven in isn't actually that difficult, if you're not sure about the rating of the wiring and the draw that your new ovens/hob may pull, then best get an electrician in to sort it for you.

In the worst case scenario, new equipment will melt the wires and start a fire, so better to be safe than sorry for something like this. What I'd be concerned about is both the oven and hob pulling power through one wire between the junction box and the consumer unit, and how that's wired into the consumer unit, or if it's just hooked into a mains circuit.
 
Dano said:
Crapping out as in stops heating? Usually a knackered element or thermal cutout, both of which are a doddle to replace usually.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the grill has also not worked brilliantly for the last couple of years. All in all there's been lots of issues that have built up, would rather treat my mom to a nice new one that's better all round :)

Steampunk said:
Depends on the oven/hob. High end ones can pull a lot of power and need to be on a separate circuit, direct to a consumer unit and without a fuse in the isolator switch (because they can pull enough amps to melt a 13/15 amp fuse). For example, my induction hob is on it's own circuit with a 3 pole 45 amp isolation switch, then direct to the consumer unit.

Although wiring an oven in isn't actually that difficult, if you're not sure about the rating of the wiring and the draw that your new ovens/hob may pull, then best get an electrician in to sort it for you.

In the worst case scenario, new equipment will melt the wires and start a fire, so better to be safe than sorry for something like this. What I'd be concerned about is both the oven and hob pulling power through one wire between the junction box and the consumer unit, and how that's wired into the consumer unit, or if it's just hooked into a mains circuit.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I helped my uncle replace his hob a couple of weeks back and he upgraded from a normal electric ceramic one to an induction one. The increased power draw meant he had to get an electrician to replace the cable, which prompted me to question if there might be similar issues with this oven.

I've got no problem getting an electrician in, what would be the going rate to have someone independent check?

Currys charge about £90 I think for one of their fitters. Seems steep when you consider it's about 30% of the cost of the oven itself, but if it was simply a matter or re-wiring it at the back, then I'd have no problem doing that.
 
Zefan said:
You absolutely do not need an electrician to fit that legally you may do it yourself. Whether or not you can do it yourself is another matter, and something you should think about before going ahead.
Click to expand...

but most insurance companies would want proof it was fitted or checked over by an electrician.
probably the same for the warranty too
 
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