In that case I would use some solid core Ethernet Cat6 or above and terminate it into the back of the vdsl filter faceplate and the other end upstairs into a single gang pattress box which you can then fit a rj11 faceplate to. The distinction is that the extension cable that goes into the front of the vdsl filter faceplate is stranded cable but if you want to do it the neat way with a socket upstairs that it would terminate to then you would use solid core Ethernet cable.
Finally getting Fibre - things to watch out for?
- Thread starter Tephnos
- Start date
Yeah, since I have no other option I'd prefer to go for the more stable Ethernet cable route rather than cheapy phone cable, I doubt 5-10m will cause anything that's not negligible if BT do it themselves on Cat5e.
Ideally I'd have the BT engineer just reroute the phone cabling if possible (drill a hole in the outside wall and just move the master socket one floor up rather than extending it - would cut down the wiring on the outside as well!) but doesn't seem like I'd be able to get that done now
Quick question, since I haven't really cut my own Ethernet cables before, I imagine Cat6 is going to have a lot of unused wires - do I just twist them out of the way and electric tape em up?
Yeah, since I have no other option I'd prefer to go for the more stable Ethernet cable route rather than cheapy phone cable, I doubt 5-10m will cause anything that's not negligible if BT do it themselves on Cat5e.
Ideally I'd have the BT engineer just reroute the phone cabling if possible (drill a hole in the outside wall and just move the master socket one floor up rather than extending it - would cut down the wiring on the outside as well!) but doesn't seem like I'd be able to get that done now
Quick question, since I haven't really cut my own Ethernet cables before, I imagine Cat6 is going to have a lot of unused wires - do I just twist them out of the way and electric tape em up?
Yeah I think relocating the master socket is quite expensive.
Be sure to use a generous length of Ethernet cable so you give yourself enough to cut back at each end. If you remove a small amount of the outer jacket there will be a pull string that you can then use to remove a bit more of the outer jacket. This makes sure none of the inner pairs have been damaged from the initial removal of the jacket to gain access to the pull string. I think you only need one pair, probably the blue, so just remove a small amount of outer jacket and then only untwist what is needed on the pair you're going to terminate into the IDC connections. The rest of the twisted pairs can just be folded back out of the way and left in their twisted state. One word of caution is with the solid Ethernet cable you need to be mindful of turning corners with a gentle graduated bend so you don't damage the inner solid cores. Also it would be preferable to run the cable either inside the wall or through conduit so that you don't have to hammer clips onto it. If you need to surface mount the cable without the use of trunking then either don't hammer the clips too tight to the cable or use some cable tie saddles which can be fixed first then gently cable tie to the saddles.
Yeah, the cable will be going straight into the wall, up into the loft where it will meet the modular socket you mentioned directly above the master socket. From there I'll run a very short cable that won't do anything to the signal that'll be noticeable. Sounds good?
It would probably be better if you can put the rj11 socket upstairs in a room so that you can have the modem next to it. If the room above the kitchen isn't where you want the modem then I'd go via the loft and drop the Ethernet down to whichever room you want the modem in. That way you don't have to have the rj11 socket in the loft and you get the modem right next to it.
The socket is where the modem will be, that's what I meant by short cable run, same room - it's a loft room so everything shouldn't be too complicated to route.
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Reading this thread and using one of the URL's provided has lead me to learn that I am on a ECI DSLAM using a Huawei HG612 (Which i purchased separately myself).
Should i consider getting hold of an ECI modem or stick with what I have?
Should i consider getting hold of an ECI modem or stick with what I have?
I meant from both counts, firstly a safety one eg not severing an electrical cable. Secondly, if it's possible to avoid running alongside electrical cable you should. It's not so much an issue if the Ethernet has to cross over electrical cable(s) but if so should be done at a right angle so they're only crossing for the briefest of distance.
Edit: still observing the bend radius tolerance of the solid core Ethernet cable.
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I'm not sure if everyone experiences a speed degradation with the Huawei but from a few forums i've read it seemed people that had changed to a Huawei modem because they wanted to access stats later discovered that the DLM had dropped their speed.
Ah yeah, fair enough. Don't believe there will be any close parallel runs next to electrical cables from memory. The most will be a right angle but I can probably avoid it.
Got quite the job ahead of me then for the next week.
Probably, second row of pictures down with a red circle around them in the following link.
http://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/btvdslfaceplate.html
If you're going to be chasing the wall out you will most likely find it easier on an outside wall since you wont have stud work to have to pass through. In the kitchen you may be able to run the cable up behind a larder unit or other full height cupboard to avoid chasing most of the wall.
Electrical cables can run horizontally or vertically in line with each socket or switch etc so you should take necessary steps to investigate when crossing a line that's inline either horizontally or vertically with an electric point. Consideration also needs to be given to water and gas pipes if your chasing wall(s). Electric cable can also run around the top of a room or down corners of a room if within I think 150mm of the edge.
Electrical cables can run horizontally or vertically in line with each socket or switch etc so you should take necessary steps to investigate when crossing a line that's inline either horizontally or vertically with an electric point. Consideration also needs to be given to water and gas pipes if your chasing wall(s). Electric cable can also run around the top of a room or down corners of a room if within I think 150mm of the edge.
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Aye, that's the ones.
Okay all set then. Now to order the stuff needed.
1x Solid Core Cat6
1x Modular Euro Faceplate
1x RJ11 Module
1x Krone tool
1x Openreach Faceplate
What a hassle.
And a single gang pattress box. There are two main types, metal to fix onto the block work of an outside wall and dry line type that have lugs each side that can grip the thickness of plasterboard.
I was wondering if I could just reuse the one I already use for routing the ADSL line into the room already, seems secured enough.
Yeah, having to get it separately. Self installing makes all this a pain. My faceplate is as old as the master socket itself so it should help getting a new faceplate on it.