Good Gear Changing - Clutch Wear

Orion21

Orion21

Orion21

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20 Feb 2006
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What is the best way to protect your car and in particular the clutch from wear and tear of gear changes?

Currently when I gear change (both up and down, except when stopping) I release accelerator fully, depress clutch fully and then re-engage accelerator gently or with a 'pump' as I pass through the bite point. Happens quite quickly in one go.

Is this good for minimising clutch wear or should I be doing my gear changes differently? Just wondering if my pressing of the accelerator as I pass through the bite point zone is going to be causing slippage and wearing the clutch.
 
I recommend depressing the clutch fully, raising the engine to maximum rpm, and then releasing the clutch pedal over a period of 5 to 10 seconds.
 
This should give you some ideas. For context, the poster is a retired police driving examiner and instructor with a police class one driving certificate. He's a top bloke and having been out with him before I can attest to his skill and knowledge.
 
shauncr91 said:
Learn to match your revs on downshifts, it'll help your clutch life + make you a smoother driver.
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If you drive properly you dont need to downshift until the car is at the correct speed for the gear. Downshifting to lower speed is for old cars with crap brakes.

Use the handbrake at junctions and don't hold it on the clutch.

Spend more time rolling in gear with the clutch up rather than coasting in neutral and then trying to rev match when you lift the clutch which invariably involves clutch slipping. (this improves economy as well as clutch wear).

Use the mnemonic V-S-G view-speed-gear observe the situation, adjust your speed, select the correct gear for the speed.
 
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Dr Who said:
If you drive properly you dont downshift until the car is at the correct speed for the gear..
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That doesn't even make sense. Downshifting will always require the engine rpm to rise. Doesn't matter how long you wait, the engine speed and road speed will never match on their own. You either blip the engine up, or you drag it up using the clutch friction.
 
I think he means if you're doing 60mh then don't drop from 6th into 2nd for example, i.e use the right gear for the speed you're driving at.

However, that advice would be for "normal" driving and not for using the engine as a brake when coming to a stop instead of (or as well as) using the brakes.

Now I'm a massive fan of engine braking as my first car 20 years ago had truly appalling brakes so I learned to use the engine to assist as much as possible (plus it sounded all race car drivery to an 18 year old) and, in those 20 years on the road, I've never broke a GB, engine or clutch doing it, regardless of almost all the comments from various passengers whose universal quote is "You'll blow the engine up doing that" :D
 
Clarkey said:
That doesn't even make sense. Downshifting will always require the engine rpm to rise. Doesn't matter how long you wait, the engine speed and road speed will never match on their own. You either blip the engine up, or you drag it up using the clutch friction.
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Wow what an epic load of rubbish you talk.

If you want to go to 2nd from 5th, slow the car down to the same speed as idle in second, clutch down select 2nd, clutch up, accelerate, even my students can manage that!
 
ianh said:
However, that advice would be for "normal" driving and not for using the engine as a brake when coming to a stop instead of (or as well as) using the brakes.

Now I'm a massive fan of engine braking as my first car 20 years ago had truly appalling brakes so I learned to use the engine to assist as much as possible (plus it sounded all race car drivery to an 18 year old) and, in those 20 years on the road, I've never broke a GB, engine or clutch doing it, regardless of almost all the comments from various passengers whose universal quote is "You'll blow the engine up doing that" :D
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Engine braking is just that, for cars 20+ years old, why would you stress an engine when the brakes are far cheaper to replace?

You should only ever need to make one gear change when going down the box, sequential downchanges are old school and just not required any more. And that comes straight out of the mouth of police instructors.
 
LOL what? Idle speed in second is what less than 10mph? You want to take it to that speed in 5th?

What you are saying is you can only downshift when you are basically stopped. Sorry pal, that is stoooooooopid.
What happens when you want to drop down to overtake or whatever?
 
Clarkey said:
LOL what? Idle speed in second is what less than 10mph? You want to take it to that speed in 5th?

What you are saying is you can only downshift when you are basically stopped. Sorry pal, that is stoooooooopid.
What happens when you want to drop down to overtake or whatever?
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I used second as an example, it works in every gear. Overtaking is COMPLETELY different obviously :rolleyes: but yeah you know more than me I am sure.

Now tell me how you approach junctions and roundabouts going balls out and aggressively which is why you can't manage to drive properly.


Watch and learn
 
Kenai said:
No, he's suggesting taking it to that speed in neutral (or at least with clutch depressed) I think.
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No you slow down in gear braking clutch up, get to the correct speed, clutch down, shift, clutch up.

You coast in gear as it uses no fuel.
 
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