Biker's Cafe Chatroom

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I was always told to use front and rear. About 75% on the front and 25% on the rear. I could probably make it most of the way to work using engine braking and slowing down way before the stop but that would be no fun :)
 
Need to go and do some bits on the bike but I'm on my arse after giving blood last night so unless I can do it from the sofa it's going to have to wait!
 
Still got the front braided line to fit that I've been getting round to since Christmas :D got a set of progressive springs and new fork oil in the shed as well but I've got no plans to do that for a while as I'll need a few days where I don't need the bike just in case and as it's my only transport those times are rare.

Also got some new plastics to fit to the ybr and generally give it a tidy up before getting it MOT'd and up for sale.
 
tom_e said:
Still got the front braided line to fit that I've been getting round to since Christmas :D got a set of progressive springs and new fork oil in the shed as well but I've got no plans to do that for a while as I'll need a few days where I don't need the bike just in case and as it's my only transport those times are rare.
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You gone for the race line setup? (Double banjo at the MC, 1 per caliper)

I wouldn't mind new springs up front, but then since I've adjusted the preload, doesn't dive as much. Any big jobs like that I would let a garage do, don't feel fully confident to do it.
 
Are you replacing the fork seals at the same time? If not then it's not that bad a job as you don't need to take the forks apart, just oil and springs out and new ones in. I'd strip the forks then hang them overnight over something to drain all the old fork oil out.

So long as you have a headstock paddock stand it's not a hard job. Strip forks off, take off cap, take out spring and oil, drain, replace spring and oil, refit. Easy :D
 
Yep I have. Bought a new double banjo with a bleeder nipple in from HEL the other day as well to make bleeding a bit easier.

I don't mind giving anything a go to be honest it's just finding the time and dry weather as I've not got a garage.

I plan on doing the seals as well, the dust seals are starting to look a little cracked and worn so the oil seals are probably getting on a bit as well. I've got an abba stand with the front lift kit as well so I should be able to do it without too much hassle when I finally get round to it.
 
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tom_e said:
I have bought a new double banjo with a bleeder nipple in from HEL the other day as well to make bleeding a bit easier.

I don't mind giving anything a go to be honest it's just finding the time and dry weather as I've not got a garage.
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I was looking for one with a bleed nipple, but I couldn't find any :(

I'm lucky I have a garage lol!

Had an issue with the sv the other day, first time in over a year. I stopped to fill up, turn the key and the fuel pump didn't prime and fi light was flashing. Turned it back off and back on again and was fine, however I noticed when riding, the temperature was dropping as it should (around 91c will fall to 81cish then back up)

Disconnect the temperature switch at the radiator and from the loom, sprayed some wd40 in and got a flat blade and cleaned up the contacts as they were caked in brown crap. Been fine ever since :D

I wouldn't mind getting the rear wheel off, and cleaning the sprocket up back to shiny silver and give the chain a good clean aswel.
 
I've found that if you don't want to go to the hassle of stripping the wheel out then the wd40 chain cleaner is great comes out of the can with enough pressure to just blast the muck off. I've tried muc off and sdoc chain cleaner in the past and both were rubbish in comparison even after getting a brush and cloth out my sprocket and chain still wasn't shining.

Quick blast with the wd40 and the gunk literally just runs off.
 
I'll try the wd40 chain cleaner. I've tried the mucoff and wasn't too bad on the chain but did nothing on the sprocket. Cheers for that :)

Regarding your foot shifter, did you just get the shifter or did you get the rod with it aswel? I think I need a new shifter with rod as the rod isn't fully straight and shifter moves side to side. I've tried tightening the shifter more to the peg but didn't budge.
 
Just the shifter. Mine moves side to side a little as well. Pretty sure it's normal due to the ball joints used to connect the shift lever and shift arm to the shift rod.

On my k5 the shift lever just slides over a rod and then there's a washer and a circlip keeping it on so it's been designed to have some movement in it as there's no way to tighten it, I take it yours is one of the models where it actually bolts between the peg and the rear set?
 
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tom_e said:
Yep I have. Bought a new double banjo with a bleeder nipple in from HEL the other day as well to make bleeding a bit easier.

I don't mind giving anything a go to be honest it's just finding the time and dry weather as I've not got a garage.

I plan on doing the seals as well, the dust seals are starting to look a little cracked and worn so the oil seals are probably getting on a bit as well. I've got an abba stand with the front lift kit as well so I should be able to do it without too much hassle when I finally get round to it.
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Ahh in that case it's a bit harder, but not that hard. I posted up some pics when I did mine, replaced the seals and fitted hyperpro progressive springs.
 
Jesus, the person who tightened the bolts holding the tank down must have used 3 people! Can't get it undone without stripping because it's too tight..
 
tom_e said:
Just the shifter. Mine moves side to side a little as well. Pretty sure it's normal due to the ball joints used to connect the shift lever and shift arm to the shift rod.

On my k5 the shift lever just slides over a rod and then there's a washer and a circlip keeping it on so it's been designed to have some movement in it as there's no way to tighten it, I take it yours is one of the models where it actually bolts between the peg and the rear set?
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Yeah mine connects to the footrest. Ball joint connects to rod, connects to other ball joint then gear shaft.
 
Oil & filter change done on the Fazer & I lubed & tightened the chain whilst I was at it. My new oil filter removal tool is the dogs ********. I've always used a strap type one but that'd be no good with the Fazer so got one of these off Amazon which works a treat. :cool:

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So much for staying on the sofa. Went in the garden for something else and 3 hours later I've replaced the cracked badly spray painted plastics on the ybr, changed the oil, changed the brake lever, taken off the mud guard to give it a lick of paint and completely dismantled the caliper. Just about to order some seals and a new piston as the current one is pitted as hell.

Gives me something new to play with and whoever buys it will be getting it a much better condition than I received it in when I knew no better.

Edit: £16.99 for an official Yamaha piston and seal kit. Bargain.
 
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Working on a bike part that hasn't been touched since it left the factory are so stubborn, got one ball joint off the gear rod, other end won't come off, sprayed some wd40 on it and leave it over night, started to damage it trying to get it undone, even with a cloth around it.
 
Insurance renewal time :(

BikeSure, Hastings Direct, Hastings Premier & MCE are cheapest.

Any reasons to avoid any the above? There is about £30 difference
 
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