PETG fittings question

Legend

Legend

Legend

Soldato
Joined
31 Dec 2006
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I am looking to go with EK fittings for a PETG build, mostly because I know they will match the nickel on the CPU and GPU block (also both EK), and as far as I can tell they are considered very reliable.

I am planning on using EK-HD PETG Tube 1216mm, so I have identified the EK-HDC 16mm G1/4 as the correct fitting to use with this, which I assume is correct? However, as I am fairly new to this I am a bit puzzled what other fittings I will need? If I need 90 degree fittings (which I'm sure I will), the only one I can see is the EK-AF Angled. Is that correct? It doesn't say anything about it taking the 16/12mm PETG though. Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks. :)
 
Howdy...

So the basic principle is that all the angles etc are just G1/4, think of them as an extender in a way. You will still need your EKHD compression fittings but what you do is screw the 90 degree in to your radiator or block for example, then the female end you fit your EKHD fitting. In short its all compatible because the hardline doesn't fit directly in the angled fittings. For bending get a decent insert thats big enough... FYI if you are after the monsoon one the right insert is actually listed as 13mm.

See below my build with the same kit, notice how the 90s on the CPU block have the EKHD fitting directly in to them.

Photo%2022-05-2016%2012%2023%2047_zpsphrldf1m.jpg
 
Ah gotcha... that makes sense now. So why don't EK have fittings that take PETG? That would be more elegant wouldn't it? I guess it would mean making a lot more of something given they'd need to cater for the different tubing widths (therefore cost on their part), but still... Bitspower have angled fittings that take PETG don't they, and from what I've seen that does look cleaner? EDIT: Actually I think that's just the ones they have for the Crystal Link tubing. Otherwise it seems to operate the same as EK with all angles being extenders and then a compression fitting is added to that. I guess that's the industry standard.

I guess you could do a whole build without any 90 degree fittings couldn't you... if you had the tube bending skills of a God? ;)
 
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Legend said:
Ah gotcha... that makes sense now. So why don't EK have fittings that take PETG? That would be more elegant wouldn't it? I guess it would mean making a lot more of something given they'd need to cater for the different tubing widths (therefore cost on their part), but still... Bitspower have angled fittings that take PETG don't they, and from what I've seen that does look cleaner? EDIT: Actually I think that's just the ones they have for the Crystal Link tubing. Otherwise it seems to operate the same as EK with all angles being extenders and then a compression fitting is added to that. I guess that's the industry standard.

I guess you could do a whole build without any 90 degree fittings couldn't you... if you had the tube bending skills of a God? ;)
Click to expand...

Yes so long as you can bend well then in theory you could do it all without any 90 degree fittings.

Do remember though for a good seal you a need a reasonable straight bit after the bend before it goes into the compression fitting.

In my build, one of the rads doesnt have enough space in front of it for me to do a 90 bend in the tube so I bought two 90 degree fittings t make my life easier.
 
OK thanks, makes sense. I will have to see how it goes with bending and laying out tubes and how well that goes I guess. Hard to really know at this stage what I will need or not.

Basically though, all the EK parts fit together as long as they have G1/4" threads and the respective male/female connection? What if I got an EK-AF ball valve though, how does that connect, because I can't see a double male fitting? I guess I would use the EK-CSQ plug on the other side, which I can remove as and when I needed to drain the loop (by attaching another fitting and a run of tubing off that), but how does the ball valve itself attach to the loop?
 
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I'm sure I'm being quite dim here, but I have seen the 3-way connectors but the ball valve is double female and the splitters are also... so what connects the two? I can't make out what it is in that picture.
 
Legend said:
I'm sure I'm being quite dim here, but I have seen the 3-way connectors but the ball valve is double female and the splitters are also... so what connects the two? I can't make out what it is in that picture.
Click to expand...

Sorry i did a quick hit and run post from my mobile.

Use a 3 way splitter (or a 4 way and use the 4th slot for a temp probe) and the main loop obviously connects with two G1/4 compression fittings.

Run the perpendicular one with a G1/4 Compression fitting and either a short rigid piece of tube or a flexi tube to the ball valve. Also a good idea to put a stop in the other end of the ball valve in case of leaks
 
OK... just to be clear here, coming out of the pump is the below what I would have? Obviously this is just following the route of the valve. I would have temp probe on another port of the splitter, and the loop continuing on the other.

EK-HDC 16mm G1/4 > Length of 16mm PETG tubing > EK-HDC 16mm G1/4 > EK-AF X-Splitter 4F G1/4 > EK-HDC 16mm G1/4 > Length of 16mm PETG tubing > EK-HDC 16mm G1/4 > EK-AF ball valve > EK-CSQ Plug G1/4

EDIT: I've actually just seen the below EK-AF Extenders the EK site. Could I use two of these, one connected to the pump, then the splitter, then the other extender and the valve connected to that?

ekaf_ext.jpg
 
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Yep looks fine to me. Only issue with the extended is you won't be able to orientate the ball valve or the splitter. If you are fine with that then go for, saves fittings and money.
 
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